OP
3D printing...
- Thread starter The Chairman
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Unfortunately, you cannot individually select rafts or brims by part in the Makerbot software, so you might want to try printing the snowflakes and center hex with a raft and do the flange on a separate print without. You probably want to use a raft for the hex because it will be tall compared to the base area.
Once you get your own printer and move to a better slicer, you can do stuff like that.
OP
The Chairman
Chairman of the Board
You know, without the raft it was going to be a 14 hour print. However, the max height of these pieces would only be 75mm which is half the limit. How much time could a raft add?
It's all about surface area. I don't know which version of makerbot software you're running but there should be a preview function that animates the print and estimates the time. Try it with all the same settings but with and without a raft and see what it says. Same for putting a bunch of parts on the build plate. That's where you'll really see a huge increase in print time, lots of parts and it has to raft all of them together.
You can see how trying to print a bunch of parts on the same build plate at the same time can be a massive headache if it fails towards the end. More small prints actually saves time over printing the whole project at once, both from recovering from a failure, and actual print time when you're printing the non-part structures like rafts, supports, and bridges.
You can see how trying to print a bunch of parts on the same build plate at the same time can be a massive headache if it fails towards the end. More small prints actually saves time over printing the whole project at once, both from recovering from a failure, and actual print time when you're printing the non-part structures like rafts, supports, and bridges.
OP
The Chairman
Chairman of the Board
Factor in the 45 minute drive (one way), and not so much!The idea of having my own printer seems better and better. Does $360 for the Tornado sound good?
For $360, I would (and did) get a cr-10, but the tornado looks to be basically a clone.
Factor in the 45 minute drive (one way), and not so much!
Yeah, the Tevo would be a good starter printer for sure. It doesn't have as much community support as the CR-10 though, so you may be doing a lot of figuring things out yourself as opposed to having a bunch of community experience. That would really be the only significant difference in terms of actual usability. Feature wise the differences are really based on individual preference.
If you have to print a large number of parts at the same time, try adjusting the print location on the build plate. Try them with the parts spaced so that it will raft them individually, then try it with the parts close together so it rafts them all together. Pick whichever is faster.
OP
The Chairman
Chairman of the Board
There are two owned among the Gainesville Hackerspace, so I have local peeps who use it successfully. One of the "hot" mods for it is a Rasberry Pi loaded with octoprint. Apparently, it does a better than decent job of slicing and can give other operational mods as well like remote checking (wifi), controlling and alarms. You can add a camera for a visual as well.
victorzamora
Contributor
OctoPi is a really cool setup, and even older Pis are 100% capable of running it as it's a fairly simple process. It's a great use if you've got any old Pi1s or Pi2s around.
As for reducing warping on those parts, a raft is, unfortunately, your best bet. It's possible that your temps could use some tweaking, though, as I've found that bed temps come into play even with PLA as it could be an adhesion thing. With ABS, I've found that dropping the bed temp after the first few layers (from ~110C to 100C) helps reduce warping but still promote adhesion.
tmassey
Contributor
Wait, what? $360 gets you a functional 3D printer worth owning? One that can produce, say, 6”x6”x6” parts of decent quality?
It’s been a couple of years since I’ve looked. Last I looked, they were well into four figures even with a great deal of self assembly.
I don’t want to hijack the thread, but I just want to confirm: you can get a fully functional 3D printer worth owning for $400? And a CR-10 is a good place to start my research?
Edit: Like this one? https://www.creality3d.shop/collections/3d-printer/products/creality-cr-10-3d-printer-prusa-i3-diy-kit-aluminum-large-print-size-300x300x400mm
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