An octo for the RAM.

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Elan, I think the MR-12, Titan and Trieste all use the same module in the first stage, so the rebuild kit should work for both stages. Here is the photo I was looking for, which shows me using a Trieste II with the MR-12 octo in about 1975 or so.

ClearLake74.jpg


The manifold you are looking for is a Sherwood, twin tank valve with a post on it for a second regulator.

HealthwaysScubaRegulator--topview.jpg


There happens to be one on E-Bay right now too:

Sherwood 3 4 in Manifold K Double 2 Regulators Cave Diving | eBay

John
 
Well, you guys know how to convince. :)

I have got a VOIT Swimaster Titan II. It's still in the mail but it looks in pretty good condition.

Will rebuild kit for MR12 from VDH work on this guy ? I assume it should at least for the 2nd stage.

Now I'm thinking that instead of using it as an octo I could find one of those manifolds with both central and post valve.


View attachment 142039

Nice score! That thing looks almost NOS!

The Sherwood Manifolds with both central and post valves pop up every now and then on eBay. There's one on eBay right now for $128, and a solid-bar Nemrod manifold currently at $30.

I got my Sherwood manifold for about $16 :D
manifold.jpg
 
Yes it will- however it does not have a HP seat in it. The USD RAM/Conshelf/Titan one will work but depending on the reg, you may have to replace the pin as well. The balance chamber oring is a real bear to get out and in. The second stage will likely need a diaphram as the old ones were not very good. The good news is the current Abyss one (I think, hopefully Greg will correct me) is a drop in replacement. You will also need a pin spanner to get the HP stage out. Also, the J valve on those is very prone to failure, bad seat material so you should at least remove all the plastic material from the seat if you intend to use the first stage. If you don't intend to use the first stage, drop me a PM, we may can work a deal, I could use one in nice shape.

Herman thanks for all those tips! You guys are awesome. I still have one pin and one seat that I ordered once drom VDH but I will order another one together with the kit. I read about the spanner in some other topics. You make that one do not you ?

I will definitely keep that 1st :) (sorry :)).
Now Im thinking I will use those manifolds to run that reg separately. It seems it will be another reg project for the winter.

---------- Post added December 6th, 2012 at 08:51 PM ----------

Elan, I think the MR-12, Titan and Trieste all use the same module in the first stage, so the rebuild kit should work for both stages. Here is the photo I was looking for, which shows me using a Trieste II with the MR-12 octo in about 1975 or so.

ClearLake74.jpg


The manifold you are looking for is a Sherwood, twin tank valve with a post on it for a second regulator.

HealthwaysScubaRegulator--topview.jpg


There happens to be one on E-Bay right now too:

Sherwood 3 4 in Manifold K Double 2 Regulators Cave Diving | eBay

John

John that you very much for the manifol info.

That picture looks really great!

---------- Post added December 6th, 2012 at 08:54 PM ----------

Nice score! That thing looks almost NOS!

The Sherwood Manifolds with both central and post valves pop up every now and then on eBay. There's one on eBay right now for $128, and a solid-bar Nemrod manifold currently at $30.

I got my Sherwood manifold for about $16 :D
manifold.jpg

Doc Ed, the gentleman claimed its very lightly used but the reg is still in the mail so I shell see when it arrives.
That was an exchange for 2 plastic fantastic seconds :) that I do not regret losing at all :) the metal is metal.

---------- Post added December 6th, 2012 at 11:00 PM ----------

Herman I just found a post by Greg in the DIY forum where he says the second takes Mares Abyss black silicon diaphragm, so you are correct. I also read the tips about the balance chamber o-ring.
I now need to convince the LDS to sell me the diaphragm. Its good they are a mares dealer.

Thanks again guys.
 
Yea, I do make a spanner for the MR12/ Trieste/Titan. You can remove most of the HP stages without it but you stand the chance of boogering it up badly if it's stuck. The flat bar spanners like you would use on a MK-5 only work if the pin hole surface is flat and out in the open. The HP module of these regs sets down inside the body so you need a tool that can reach down into the cavity to engauge the pin holes.
 
Yea, I do make a spanner for the MR12/ Trieste/Titan. You can remove most of the HP stages without it but you stand the chance of boogering it up badly if it's stuck. The flat bar spanners like you would use on a MK-5 only work if the pin hole surface is flat and out in the open. The HP module of these regs sets down inside the body so you need a tool that can reach down into the cavity to engauge the pin holes.

Perfect I will be geting one from you after the holidays together with the USD first stage assembly tool. Its long time overdue :) We spoke about it 2 years ago but I did not have to rebuild my RAM since then. Its now due and I will need the tool. Are there any other specific tools that will be needed for this titan?
 
The way to make spanner wrenches is to take an aluminum bar and drill two holes corresponding to the holes in the part. Drill the holes at a size slightly less than the number drill that will drop into the holes in the part. Then cut two pieces from that drill stock and press them into the bar and trim the length of each.

N
 
Sounds easy when you have access to the tools :wink:

Thanks anyways Nemrod

---------- Post added December 8th, 2012 at 05:00 PM ----------

I picked up the reg today and it turned out to be a NIB :) All the finish is untouched, it still has it's original packaging manual and warrantee card which states that I can send it to Voit if it requires servicing and they will service it for $5. I wonder if they do it now :D. The reg is 43 years old. :) My wife when saw it said may be you should not dive it :D
 
If this is the RAM I'm thinking of, it's from the late 60s; a round label. So you'd be fine using an early 109. But the USD 2nd stage would be cooler IMO, and of course that's really the only thing that matters.

John Ratliff, are some of your photos from Clear Lake? I've always wanted to dive there. Some of those photos are outstanding!
 
halocline,

Yes, some of the photos are from Clear Lake, Oregon, which is the headwaters for the McKenzie River. This is wonderful dive spot. I'll put another photo or two up for people to see.

By the way, there are a lot of Dacor Pacer regulator second stages available on E-Bay, and they make a very nice octopus too. The nice thing about them is that they do not free flow in the water more than about four seconds, due to a design that Dacor patented allowing water to enter the regulator even when under a free flow condition.

John
 

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I thought I would post an update.

After getting a rebuild kit , a new HP seat and a valve lifter (thanks Bryan @ VDH) and receiving the tools from Herman I have finally done the rebuild of the first stage.
It amazingly looks like a USD reg inside so everything was very familiar. The reg did look like new inside, all o-rings were dried out and there were no signs of previous service :)

Like someone mentioned I did have to cut a new valve lifter as the older one was too short. I also removed the J-valve internals and just kept the lever.
After assembling the reg worked right from the start. The lockup is solid right from the get go.

I now need to find an adapter for the HP port as the HP port is the same as the LP port and the modern hoses will not fit. Can anyone recommend where those adapters can be bought from ?

I'm also waiting for an Abyss black silicone diaphragm to rebuild the second stage.

Cannot wait to dive this thing. :) I spoke to a technician today who said that they were testing those regs in the arctics back then and they were bulletproof and reliable and they were pretty rough with them.

Thanks everyone for the information and tips.

.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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