Antigua Diving

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jbmooney

Contributor
Messages
137
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0
Location
New York
# of dives
25 - 49
I'm new to this board and to scuba, so I don't have much to compare with, but I just had a great experience in Antigua that I wanted to share.

I spent the week before Thanksgiving in Falmouth Harbor, on the southeast side of Antigua, diving with Bryan Cunningham at Seawolf Diving. I'm a recently certified Open Water diver, and wanted to spend some time getting comfortable and diving in viz greater than 2' (I got certified on Long Island, in New York, so that wasn't an option at home).

After reading up on Antigua here on ScubaBoard, I contacted Antigua Scuba in English Harbor and Ultramarine, but got told that the former was closing up shop and the latter was only operating out of a base on the other side of the island. Before I heard from anyone else, I heard from a friend who had dived with Seawolf on Montserrat that they had moved to Antigua, and contacted Bryan through his website. I was by myself for this trip, so I needed to find someone who could serve as my buddy, and am new enough that I wanted a little more attention than I might get on a "cattle boat". Seawolf has a package that includes an Advanced Open Water certification with booking six dives or more with them, and that solved both of those problems, as well as providing some direction to my diving, which was an added bonus.

Seawolf is a PADI dive center officially based in Montserrat, but actually operating mostly in Antigua for the last couple of years (Monsterrat being significantly less hospitable to tourism after the volcano erupted and all:fear:). They run two boats, both of which are small, but perfectly adequate to the trips they make, which are quite short (more time diving, less time riding in a boat, which suited me fine). From what I've read here, the on board accommodations might best be described as basic (bring your own water and snack), and they aren't shiny, but they were perfectly seaworthy, included all the necessary safety gear, and were fine for the short trips we made. Bryan himself was very competent, knowledgeable (certified as an instructor by PADI, NAUI, and SDI, and experienced in diving all over the world), very conscious of caring for the reefs we dove on ("no gloves, please - they make you more inclined to touch things"), and very personable - lots of fun to dive with.

Again, I don't have a lot to compare with, but the prices seemed very reasonable, and the diving was spectacular - tons of fish with many species (I loaded up on my fish ID lists in almost every dive), great reef life (lots of sponges and fans, and some interesting corals), really interesting bottom formations and topography, and amazing visibility on every dive. The water was warm (about 82º with no thermocline), and the sea state was quite benign for most dives (this is apparently a little variable - if the tradewinds are blowing hard, it can get a bit choppy on a couple of sites, but it was fine while I was there). I was staying on the sailboat I went down there on, but there are a couple of nice places to stay in Falmouth and English Harbors (try the Catamaran Hotel, the Admiral's Inn, the Antigua Yacht Club or the St James Club for more upscale options, and Zanzibar or a couple of others for the more budget minded - there are also a number of condos for rent in Falmouth at a variety of prices), and the local nightlife and restaurants are entertaining and tasty, respectively. One problem - after the beginning of December, accommodations can get tight, as the two harbors are a major winter destination for big sail and power yachts, which can suck up a lot of the hotel space when they're not out on charter - make your arrangements with a bit of lead time to beat this problem.

The trip was a resounding success for me, as I felt as though I went from someone with no experience at all to having at least the beginnings of a clue. I got a lot more comfortable in the water, doubled my bottom times and dramatically improved my buoyancy performance in four days, managed to complete the AOW course, and had a ball. I'll go again as soon as I can manage it, and I'd recommend it highly to anyone who wants a great diving experience. Thanks, Bryan!:bang:
 
Antigua was my first open water experience after certification as well. Your report brought back some good memories. Thank you.
 
Hi Tim, thanks for your reply. I don't know how long it's been since you were in Antigua, but if it's been more than a few years, you'd be amazed at how much more built up Falmouth Harbor has gotten! I delivered several boats down there and sailed in Antigua Sailing Week (highly recommended!)in the 90's, and it was a relatively sleepy little harbor then, with basic facilities. No more - there's clearly a lot of cash washing around in that harbor now!

So, since you started with the same luck I did in choosing where to go after completing your OWD, where did you go next, and how was it?:coffee::D
 
Indeed JB. I once lived on ANU and go back a few times each year for work and to visit family. It's changed as much of the Caribbean has. I still love the English Harbour area the best. Sea Wolf had a great rep in the 90's pre Soufriere (Montserrat). Glad you had a great experience.

Ann Phelan
Caribbean Wind & Sun Vacations--Your Caribbean Travel Specialist
 
Am in Antigua for the weekend and saw a new operation happening. Sea Coast Horizons is a very cool eco property with simple spartan accommodations, a lovely mangrove tour and soon a dive operation. A chap out of Jolly Beach is set to open this PADI operation soon. Will post details once I learn more in April. For now, I walked past Jolly Dive yesterday. Met someone who dove with them and had a great experience. I went out to Cades Reef with a snorkel tour. The tourists LOVED the reef and the captain who has 20+ years experience on the waters here pronounced the reef to be very healthy. In the distance locals were using spear guns and gloves to fish. Phooey.

Ann Phelan
Caribbean Wind & Sun Vacations--Your Caribbean Travel Specialist
 
We go down to Curtain Bluff in Antigua and a few years ago I did a resort dive with JollyDive and then last year did my open water cert dives with them after taking the open water course at home. They seem to be a nice group of ppl and run a decent mom & pop style shop. Can't say I was a fan of the DM's chain smoking on the boat, though.
 
So tell me is Curtain Bluff still mostly a geriatric set?
 
So tell me is Curtain Bluff still mostly a geriatric set?
Probably depends on the time of year you go. We've gone three times, each around easter. At that time it's lots of young families. Very few geriatric guests. The only ppl who wouldn't like it are probably singles. It's mostly a family resort.

It's definitely not for divers though. Diving is free and included, like nearly everything else (only spa stuff & tennis lessons, and wine other than table wine isn't included). The dive gear is all top notch without so much as a fray and in excellent condition. The dives are guided and only 1 per day first thing in the morning. As a novice diver I think the diving is fine. I'm pretty sure that anyone that's done a fair amount of diving would find it boring. Everything looks the same on Caddes Reef. Maybe you'll see a lobster, a turtle, a nurse shark or a sting ray. Not much beyond that. I understand that the reef colors are washed out. They cater to you enough to have your size bcd on a tank waiting for you in the boat without anyone even having to ask you what size you want. The DMs seem like very nice guys and have been there for years.
 
We just got back from Antigua and dove with SeaWolf diving and I have nothing but the highest regard for them. Bryan Cunningham runs a top-shelf shop there! We didn't even mind making the drive across the island from Jolly Harbour (about 45 minutes each way) because we so enjoyed diving with him. Between Bryan and his divemaster Sean, we experienced some of the best customer service imaginable, and they took special care with my in-laws (who hadn't dived in a decade) to make them feel safe and comfortable and to ensure they had a good time.

We enjoyed them so much that we invited them out to dive with us in SoCal!

(By the way, thanks also to Ann [phelana] for all her help with recommendations and in answering all of my endless stupid questions ... if folks want to go to the Caribbean, book through her!)
 

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