Asking about Canon DSLR macro lens

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Can't answer as I am still working with the 100! Having a ball. I am finding uses for both shutter focus and moving the focus to the * ... only 1.5 dives with it on the shutter so have more experimenting to do! But frankly, I kinda like it on the * :)

I'll be that over on ddn or on wetpixel.com they will have the answer straight away as this is a common lens set to have...if you wouldn't mind, if you do ask, do you want to toss the answer in here? Thanks!
 
I tried the shutter half press for focus but found I was firing a lot of uintended shots. Instead of learning a light touch with the housing shutter control I switched to the * . My thumb has come along nicely.

For those of you who are completely lost, the * button on the back of the 20D is normally an exposure lock (AE lock) button. The camera has a custom function that allows you to convert the * button to a focus lock. This takes the focus lock away from the shutter half press where it normally resides turning the shutter into a pure shutter. On the Ikelite housing the * button is activated with a thumb control.

I may do a post on ddn (not a bad idea).

---Bob
 
That's really odd. If that's the case, there is no reason for anyone to buy an EFS lens. I'm glad I never owned an EFS lens. It's the blessing in disguise for me becuase I'm upgrading to a 5D and that's a full 35mm and I can still use all my old lens.
 
Has anyone used the Cannon 50mm Macro with a 20D? I mostly dive in cold mucky water, so I am concerned about getting closer to cut down backscatter. I am concerned that the 100mm will put me too far away.

SB
 
nap:
That's really odd. If that's the case, there is no reason for anyone to buy an EFS lens. I'm glad I never owned an EFS lens. It's the blessing in disguise for me becuase I'm upgrading to a 5D and that's a full 35mm and I can still use all my old lens.

Ever wonder why when you ask a question, you somehow answer it? I went to the Canon website to try to get some specs on the 60mm efs and 100mm ef macro lenses. Not a lot of useful information, but Canon did have the “working distance” figures for the lenses at 1:1. According to Canon for the 60mm it is “almost 4 inches” and for the 100mm it is “5.9 inches.” That is a screaming 2" at 1:1, the tightest macro setting both lenses allow.

Not that I mistrust Canon, but I decided to do a kitchen table (read unscientific) bench test with the 60mm on the 20D (sans housing). The rough measurement I got was 3&7/8" with a very narrow 1/4"-3/8" depth of field (DOF) stopped down to f22. Wow. Not a lot to work with on the DOF side. No wonder I have the hunting issue. I don’t know what I was expecting. My Nikonos III shot macro with the extension tubes also had a very narrow DOF and a closer distance to subject.

Now the 60mm shoots macro out to 1:5 and at that frame the working distance increases to about 12.5" and the DOF to about 1"+. If the ratio holds this would suggest a working distance at 1:5 for the 100mm at about 18.5" or a gain of about 6" distance from subject. Alcina or Kevin could run the same test on the 100 and post the results.

Nap, I think you have hit on the best solution to the 60 vs 100 debate (other than buying both). When I bot the 60 I knew it was not backward compatible to true 35mm (ie 24x36 mm film or sensor) but I am not using my old 35mm film bodies anyway. If you expect to upgrade to a true 24x36mm sensor, then pick the 100mm lens. If you like the 15x22.5 format (read Digital Rebel, Rebel 350, 10D or 20D) and don’t intend to upgrade to a full 35mm sensor in the near future then the 60mm is a good choice.

Frankly, it sound like you can’t go too far astray with either lens.

—Bob
 
Or if you want the 60, get it, use it, love it, sell it, move on...that's my plan if I ever decide to change to a FF sensor. I just decided I couldn't worry too much about "what ifs" in the future...I bought what I wanted to use NOW!

Who knows...one day I may even swap brands completely to Kodak and have to start all over again :wink: LOL
 
nap:
EFS-60mm on your camer will be 60mm.

The only way to get rid of a 1.6 factor is to get a EF-S lens

Both of those statements are wrong. The equivalent focal length will be 60*1.6=96mm. The EF-S designation does not remove the crop factor.

And I can assure you, there are plenty of reasons for choosing an EF-S lens...

~Matt Segal
 
Hi Matt:

As you were one of the "first kids on the block" to house a 20D and since you own both macro lenses, can you give your quick impressions in answer to David's initial question?

---Bob
 
In response to David's question, it's really a personal choice, although (short answer) I would suggest the 100mm macro for the increased working distance (generally, even though at 1:1 it becomes closer to the working distance of the 60mm than it does at any other time, as a result of the lens' internal focusing).

However, he is in Indonesia, and I have seen many, many shots taken with a 60mm lens (equivalent focal length between 90mm and 96mm depending on whether by Nikon or Canon) from that area, in which the species being photographed did not seem to mind in the least. The fact that the 60mm will allow you to get that much closer for 1:1 (without the use of diopters or teleconverters) will sometimes allow you to throw more light on a subject, and use a higher f-stop for more DOF. The flipside of that is in some cases, you are so close to a subject, that it is difficult to aim your strobes in the manner that you wish.

If you are used to using the 100mm lens on a FF camera, then the 60mm macro will provide that same equivalent field of view on the Canon EF-S capable cameras, albeit with a lesser minimum focus distance. Otherwise, as nap will soon find out if they do decide to go to the 5D, one either has to crop or purchase a longer focal length lens to achieve the same 'look' as one achieves with the 100mm lens on a cropped-sensor camera (that is, of an equivalent focal length lens of 160mm).

If you are going to be shooting primarily small subjects, go with the 100mm. In the worst case scenario (bad vis), you can throw on a diopter or teleconverter (or combinations of the two), and you will not only be able to bring the minimum focus distance closer, but also achieve increased magnification at any distance (compared to the previous magnification at the distance).

If you don't understand the need for the EF-S lenses out now, you have no understanding of how the sensor crops the image from the lens. The EF 16-35 f/2.8L is one of the widest full-frame zooms that I know of - and it's a heavy, expensive beast (I know, I've used it frequently). Because for a cropped sensor, the image circle projected by the lens does not have to be as large, the lens projecting the image doesn't have the same restrictions as with a full-frame camera. Optics will be lighter, smaller, cheaper, and available in wider effective focal lengths. As a result, we have the EF-S 10-22mm lens, which (with the 1.6x crop) delivers an equivalent 16-35.2mm focal length. A 10mm full frame prime lens would be incredibly expensive and heavy, a 10-22mm full frame zoom lens, unthinkable. Instead, we have the relatively light and inexpensive 10-22 WA zoom. Granted, I wish it was a bit faster, but I can live it with for now.

I hope this clears up some issues.

~Matt Segal
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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