Bauer K15 oil pressure dropping

[regtechkidd]

I'm not sure why he would recommend replacing the valves, and I am not sure what he is refering to as a piston jug. I would bleed the oil system both at the oil pump and at the pressure side of the pressure regulator and if that doesn't fix the problem then check those o rings again at the bottom of the piston sleeve. Make absoluty sure that they are not cut.
Keep us posted because this is a good one.
ZDD[/QUOTE

By "Piston Jug" I mean the entire cylinder, that contains the piston and sleeve. I have bled each of the lines while the compressor is running and have found no bubbles. At this point the piston and sleve have been out three times and the o-rings were replaced twice, never has there been any damage to any of the o-rings (even the original ones)

 

[cocoloca]

Hi I have the same problem on my k15 oil would start good but a few minutes later the oil pressure would drop even if we tightened the screw on the regulator it would not bring the pressure up. I have rebuilt the oil pressure regulator changed the whole 4th stage. On the end of the oil pump there is a check valve before the line that goes to the regulator we ran it through the ultasonic cleaner and now I have a oil pressure over 800psi I think there was some dirt in it, but the needle still moves a little. I hope this helps

 

[Zodiacdiverdave]

At this point I would agree with Cocoloca, I would remove the oil pump and disassemble it clean it well and see if it makes a differance. It might also be a good time to take the oil sump off and clean it out inside as well, when your piston guide cracked it could have left metal pieces in the oil sump which ended up in the oil pump.
Keep us posted
ZDD

 

[regtechkidd]

Sorry for not re-posting untill now. I enede up removing the oil pump and digging around inside the case with my finger. When it came out I found a bunch of funk, metal shavings etc. Long story short, the rear crankshaft bearing and oil camshaft bearing had worn out and were disintegrating. This caused all the stuff to block the oil flow when running, but it all settled below the dipstick and went unnoticed. So I broke it down to the crankshaft and replaced all seals and bearings. Luckily there was no damage to the crank or connecting rods. The compressor was fixed back in Jan and has been running great ever since. Thank you for all your help!

 

[Zodiacdiverdave]

Sorry for not re-posting untill now. I enede up removing the oil pump and digging around inside the case with my finger. When it came out I found a bunch of funk, metal shavings etc. Long story short, the rear crankshaft bearing and oil camshaft bearing had worn out and were disintegrating. This caused all the stuff to block the oil flow when running, but it all settled below the dipstick and went unnoticed. So I broke it down to the crankshaft and replaced all seals and bearings. Luckily there was no damage to the crank or connecting rods. The compressor was fixed back in Jan and has been running great ever since. Thank you for all your help!

Great to hear you got it worked out, too bad it was an expensive fix for you.
ZDD

 

[reefrider@att.net]

You should keep oil PSI between 875 & 910 PSI, Remeber the only pressure lub part of these units is the final stage through a very small hole in cylinder to floating piston and the more you stave the oil PSI the sooner the piston will wear and get hot and start to lock up . Also The auto unloader should not dump longer then 10 seconds as that will allow that piston to knock sounding like a bad rod and cauese damage and if starts to lock up will damge the pusher piston( guide). Oil changes should be every average 150 hours not because the oil is worn out but to keep crank case good and clean from moisture, carbon & junk. Cheap insurance! Remember the oil pump picks up from the bottom of case ANY JUNK IN YOUR UNIT??

Good Luck Cheers

I'm not sure why he would recommend replacing the valves, and I am not sure what he is refering to as a piston jug. I would bleed the oil system both at the oil pump and at the pressure side of the pressure regulator and if that doesn't fix the problem then check those o rings again at the bottom of the piston sleeve. Make absoluty sure that they are not cut.
Keep us posted because this is a good one.
ZDD