Best Booster for Rebreathers

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any time the inlet pressure is lowered, there is increased heat generated and the efficiency is lowered. I HIGHLY doubt the rest of the industry is using regulators to slow the thing down. It is a red-neck bandaid to proper engineering. The total cost of the unit changes by essentially $0 to use a 3p motor and VFD compared to a 1p motor *which are more expensive* and a good regulator.

The industry, when capacity control is required, uses regulators on the inlet, it is the proper way to control the outlet conditions. (BP regs controlling inlet receivers are the same thing)

That said, an inlet regulator which is used to make a booster operate below its minimum or maximum ratings is not a good idea.

This is a limit for E drive boosters vs air drive, air drive makes speed control easy and offers massive bandwidth, E drive restricts you way more. Any home blender, especially with respect to Oxygen, should be using air drive boosters. VFD or not, eclectic drive booster are not appropriate for home blending applications when O2 is a consideration.
 
The industry, when capacity control is required, uses regulators on the inlet, it is the proper way to control the outlet conditions. (BP regs controlling inlet receivers are the same thing)

That said, an inlet regulator which is used to make a booster operate below its minimum or maximum ratings is not a good idea.

This is a limit for E drive boosters vs air drive, air drive makes speed control easy and offers massive bandwidth, E drive restricts you way more. Any home blender, especially with respect to Oxygen, should be using air drive boosters. VFD or not, eclectic drive booster are not appropriate for home blending applications when O2 is a consideration.
and why not?
 
This is a limit for E drive boosters vs air drive, air drive makes speed control easy and offers massive bandwidth, E drive restricts you way more. Any home blender, especially with respect to Oxygen, should be using air drive boosters. VFD or not, eclectic drive booster are not appropriate for home blending applications when O2 is a consideration.
Says who and why?
 
The industry, when capacity control is required, uses regulators on the inlet, it is the proper way to control the outlet conditions. (BP regs controlling inlet receivers are the same thing)

That said, an inlet regulator which is used to make a booster operate below its minimum or maximum ratings is not a good idea.

This is a limit for E drive boosters vs air drive, air drive makes speed control easy and offers massive bandwidth, E drive restricts you way more. Any home blender, especially with respect to Oxygen, should be using air drive boosters. VFD or not, eclectic drive booster are not appropriate for home blending applications when O2 is a consideration.
Let me guess, someone was selling you an air drive booster and was telling you this?

You can't just drop a bomb and walk away. Give us some details.
 
and why not?

E drive boosters are installed in applications where they can run and move gas, not short start stop cycles like home blending would be. This is mostly, but not exclusively due to an industry rule of thumb of a maximum of 6 starts per hour. 6 starts per hour is a recipe for motor replacement and a motor won't stay happy like that for too long so most like to see 4 or less.

There is also the requirements that a typical home blender would have, inlets down to 100 psi. Outlets to 4500 psi. PLUS capacity control. Meeting all these requirements is not easy for anything electric, but is very simple for pneumatic drive.

Example application:
Fire truck has 9, 6K bottles on board with a panel and CFS. While SCBAs are being filled, the booster will shuffle the air from the lower banks to the higher banks as to maximize how many SCBAs can be filled.

In this application, the unit runs for a decent amount of time and works its way towards being maxed out, minimum Inlet pressure gets met and it shuts down.

When O2 is involved, heat becomes more of a consideration. Because an E drive booster, even with a VFD, already has a window of operation, the temp limit, tightens that window up and makes the unit less versatile. In reality, this doesn't apply to you, @tbone1004,because from what I can tell you have tons of blending stuff and you would use the right tool for the job, so you won't be regulating O2 to unreasonably low numbers to try and control the throughput on a device that probably shouldn't be used for that particular gas transfer. However, typically a home blender would want one booster, maybe two and the boosters that offer the greatest control and bandwidth are pneumaticlly driven types. E drive really shines when you have a decent amount of gas to move but home blending SCUBA cylinders doesn't have the throughput required to go electric.
 
Says who and why?
Says me, (not in a snobby tone) I design and build high pressure gas systems. Pneumatic boosters are loathed in the industry, and I have admittedly used them sparingly. But where they do shine is for highly variable inlet and outlet conditions.

Compression equipment does not like variable anything and blenders want variable everything, this is where boosters are excellent, inlet from very low, to 6K? Pneumatic booster, outlet from 1K to 9 K? Pneumatic booster.

There is way too much to put in a response here but given the requirements of the home blenders application, pnumatc boosters are the hammer and nails of that tool box. You want an e drive booster for transferring in between cascade banks, go for it. But you want to control your O2 fills into small tanks? You can't go wrong with a haskel or the like (not SUN)
 
Says me, (not in a snobby tone) I design and build high pressure gas systems. Pneumatic boosters are loathed in the industry, and I have admittedly used them sparingly. But where they do shine is for highly variable inlet and outlet conditions.

Compression equipment does not like variable anything and blenders want variable everything, this is where boosters are excellent, inlet from very low, to 6K? Pneumatic booster, outlet from 1K to 9 K? Pneumatic booster.

There is way too much to put in a response here but given the requirements of the home blenders application, pnumatc boosters are the hammer and nails of that tool box. You want an e drive booster for transferring in between cascade banks, go for it. But you want to control your O2 fills into small tanks? You can't go wrong with a haskel or the like (not SUN)
I have six pneumatic boosters are varying sizes and two electric boosters. I essentially never use the pneumatics anymore, they requires lots of drive gas and are expensive to maintain. While they are versatile, I would prefer electric any day.
I think your version of home blender and mine are different.
If you are a single diver with a set or two of rebreather bottles, yeah, a small pneumatic would be suitable.
An OC home blender with a couple of buddies; which is more what I typically see, would probably benefit more from an electric unit.
 
Get some in!!!



 
@Cio we agree 100% on using regulated inputs to control the speed of the electric boosters. I've spoken out against that for years because of the compression ratios involved and the fact that you are swapping heat generated in the cylinders from a fast fill speed for heat generated in the pump from high compression ratios.
Pneumatic boosters certainly have the inherent speed advantage in that very few people have big enough systems to actually run them at their rated 1cycle/second rate though the issue with them is that by the time you have bought the booster and all of the stuff to go with it you are rapidly approaching the price of a new Masterline with a VFD *~$11k ish*.

I do have quite a bit of boosting equipment with a pair of electric boosters and a single pneumatic booster. The pneumatic booster is 15/40 compression so is what I would use to scavenge the bottom of a bottle, but I do believe the electric boosters with a VFD is the "best" option, even for small rebreather bottles.
Now, we do circle back to something that I am conflicted with right now which is what to do with my Sierra boosters. I have a pair of them which for anyone unfamiliar are electric boosters typically installed in a Fire Department Rescue Truck to do what @Cio outlined above with dealing with the cascade bottles. They are VERY high volume because they are 2-stage single acting. The Masterline boosters are the ones that are more appropriate for scuba use and what you see if you go to Cave Adventurers or @rddvet 's garage. Those are 2-stage single acting meaning they go from one head to the other.
If you follow industry recommended practices for O2 then each stage of compression should not go higher than 5:1 or 6:1 depending on where you are getting the information and what inlet pressure you are feeding it. Historically I have only had an AG-30 from Haskel and when I have to scavenge bottles I used an intermediate bottle to scavenge them down then boosted a second time. With the Sierra's they say they need 1,000psi minimum to operate properly though I'm convinced that is only a boost ratio issue to boost SCBA's to 4500psi and I have no issue running them down to 500-600psi inlet, but with the Masterline I think I'm OK to run much lower since it is 2-stage
 
. With the Sierra's they say they need 1,000psi minimum to operate properly though I'm convinced that is only a boost ratio issue to boost SCBA's to 4500psi and I have no issue running them down to 500-600psi inlet, but with the Masterline I think I'm OK to run much lower since it is 2-stage
I run my masterline at about 300psi regularly for filling a single rebreather bottle. Never had an issue or excessive heat and it's slow enough if there's a little heat I'm not worried. I generally try to have a steel 72 or an al40 on the whip at the same time, but sometimes I'm lazy. If the VFD version was available when I bought mine I definitely would have gotten that over the standard just for ease. But I find it a nonissue
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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