C-5050 settings, taking down for the 1st time.
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sapphire
Contributor
You might get some different advice here as there are lots of Oly 5050 users, some of them very expert. When I started using the camera it was with the internal flash only. I set it in "P" mode (fully automatic) and shot away. Almost ALL the shots in my Gallery here are with the camera's internal flash only, using Photoshop Elements to do some color correction to remove excessive blue or green.
There are also some modifications you can make from the factory defaults, like shooting with the picture quality SHQ instead of the default HQ.
Also, check the sticky in this forum to find the link to the Oly resources document. You will find links to lots of Internet sites with tips you can use.
Good luck and post your photos when you return
!!
Jennifer
There are also some modifications you can make from the factory defaults, like shooting with the picture quality SHQ instead of the default HQ.
Also, check the sticky in this forum to find the link to the Oly resources document. You will find links to lots of Internet sites with tips you can use.
Good luck and post your photos when you return
!!Jennifer
jlyle
Contributor
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IMHO, you should stay away from "P" mode. The camera's brain, if you can call it that, is tiny and not very bright. In P mode, the camera will often choose shutter speeds that are too long for hand held use and you will get blurred images. If you want the camera to do the work for you, go to shutter priority ("S" mode) and set the shutter speed to 1/60 or 1/100, and fire away.
Remember the first rule of underwater photography: Get close.
Then, use the second rule: Get closer!
(You should put the camera in "macro" mode for underwater so that it starts looking for autofocus at 8 inches.)
Have a ball and share your experience with us when you get home.
DSAO,
Jim (jlyle)
Remember the first rule of underwater photography: Get close.
Then, use the second rule: Get closer!
(You should put the camera in "macro" mode for underwater so that it starts looking for autofocus at 8 inches.)
Have a ball and share your experience with us when you get home.
DSAO,
Jim (jlyle)
Hoppy
Guest
amc717:
One newb to another, I just did exactly what you are gonna do. Here's my 20 20 hindsight
Shoot in RAW mode, having bought the biggest mem card you can afford. That way you can do whatever you like with the image in Photoshop later on.
If you shoot HQ or SHQ the camera is going to do stuff to the image that will be VERY difficult to undo later, if at all possible.
The other thing to do is check out here, these folks are awesome in their willingness to help.
In particular read the article on White Balance setting, as this will help you as well if you don't shoot RAW mode. I wish I had before going to Tahiti :11:
I'm sure a lot of others may have different ideas, but at least with the above using P mode, you should get images you can manipulate later on if needed.
Other than that get in within a foot of your subject as the flash isn't gonna be any good outside that distance.
And lets see the results !
Cheers
Hoppy
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I would say it all depends on your experience level. If you're an experienced photographer and know your settings and such, go for that (just really get to know your buttons and button combinations before you get in the water with it). If you don't, I would also suggest P mode, check what the camera automatically suggests and learn from that. True that the settings are not always 100%, but it gives you an idea of what you need to select.
I wouldn't use P mode, either. I would hit M and learn how to use it - really it isn't that hard and you'll be surprised how little fussing you need to do underwater in M.
The 5050, from what I have been told, is at it's best at f4. I would start there or 5.6. When you are shooting really close up nudis or whatever go to f7.
Black backgrounds (to remove the distractions) need a fast shutter...depending on where you are going to dive that could be 1/250 or 1/800! I'd start about 1/320 and go from there.
Shoot RAW! Very good advice. It retains the most information possible, so even if you don't get things quite right underwater you can tell the software what to fix in the converter. Basically, very basically, you get to choose all of those things that the camera would normally choose for you and for which you do not have control of when you don't use RAW. It isn't any harder to shoot RAW and I did not find that it greatly increased my editing time at all...in fact it probably decreased it coz I didn't spend time trying to revive the dead.
Underwater you can skip WB if you are using RAW. one less thing to deal with.
Get close. I leave my camera in macro mode for all uw shots unless I am shooting mantas or whalesharks...and even then I have been known to forget. Your internal flash on the 5050 is excellent, but still only helps you within about four feet of your subject. Get closer.
Good luck and have fun!!
The 5050, from what I have been told, is at it's best at f4. I would start there or 5.6. When you are shooting really close up nudis or whatever go to f7.
Black backgrounds (to remove the distractions) need a fast shutter...depending on where you are going to dive that could be 1/250 or 1/800! I'd start about 1/320 and go from there.
Shoot RAW! Very good advice. It retains the most information possible, so even if you don't get things quite right underwater you can tell the software what to fix in the converter. Basically, very basically, you get to choose all of those things that the camera would normally choose for you and for which you do not have control of when you don't use RAW. It isn't any harder to shoot RAW and I did not find that it greatly increased my editing time at all...in fact it probably decreased it coz I didn't spend time trying to revive the dead.
Underwater you can skip WB if you are using RAW. one less thing to deal with.
Get close. I leave my camera in macro mode for all uw shots unless I am shooting mantas or whalesharks...and even then I have been known to forget. Your internal flash on the 5050 is excellent, but still only helps you within about four feet of your subject. Get closer.
Good luck and have fun!!
I'd agree with Alcina, go with M mode. It's the most flexible and allows you do do what you like. You don't always have to get the shot right the first time, especially if your subject is not going anywhere. Take a shot look at it, if you don't like it adjust and take another one, etc. For example if the shot is over exposed try using a faster shutter speed to stop so much light getting to the camera or adjust the aperture
Play with the canmera before you dive and get used to how it works. Also play with it with the housing on as it'll seem different to begin with.
Play with the canmera before you dive and get used to how it works. Also play with it with the housing on as it'll seem different to begin with.
TheNitroxinator
Contributor
Since you're using the internal strobe, I don't know if the M mode makes much of a difference. You need to get close to your subjects, or you'll get a lot of backscatter. I haven't used an internal strobe since my S-50 flooded on me in Palau. I have used M mode with my external strobe - basically because the rig I've got requires that I use M mode in order to fire the strobe. Its also solid metal, the internal strobe doesn't illuminate anythign even if I wanted it to. I've used P-mode on a dive, because I was a knucklehead and didn't get my strobe cable attached correctly - this reminds me that you should always test fire on the surface to make sure everythings working before you go down.
Before I flooed my S-50, I found that it worked best to set the shutter to 1/60 (which is what the auto would usually set it to), and then use an external light or no strobe at all. I suppressed the internal strobe to avoid the backscatter, but in Roatan, Truk, and Palau I would admit that I was not shooting macro shots. If you're shooting macro, I admit I don't know what settings will work best with the internal strobe. With a Nikonos 105, I typically have manual mode set to 1/400 to 1/1000 for the shutter speed, and an aperture of 5.4. And I typically have to change the stobe to 1/4 or 1/16.
One thing you didn't specify is your experience level, and your profile doesn't mention it. If you don't think you're really good at buoyancy control, go with P mode, and make sure you work on staying in control while you take your pictures. Your picture quality might suffer compared to manual mode, but you'll have a few less things to think about and you'll get better at a critical element to picture taking, buoyancy control. If you are an experienced diver, just use M mode and take a bunch of pictures so you can get a feel for the settings; you'll get some screwed up pictures, but it will pay off in the long run, and there's no doubt you'll be doing a lot of picture taking. Face it - you're not going to go throw your camera in the trash after one dive (I'm going to assume you won't flood it). Once you've got the 5050 you are *hooked*, and will eventually turn into a photography freak. If my 5050 floods, I'll get a DSLR for my next camera - I am an underwater photography addict at this point.
Before I flooed my S-50, I found that it worked best to set the shutter to 1/60 (which is what the auto would usually set it to), and then use an external light or no strobe at all. I suppressed the internal strobe to avoid the backscatter, but in Roatan, Truk, and Palau I would admit that I was not shooting macro shots. If you're shooting macro, I admit I don't know what settings will work best with the internal strobe. With a Nikonos 105, I typically have manual mode set to 1/400 to 1/1000 for the shutter speed, and an aperture of 5.4. And I typically have to change the stobe to 1/4 or 1/16.
One thing you didn't specify is your experience level, and your profile doesn't mention it. If you don't think you're really good at buoyancy control, go with P mode, and make sure you work on staying in control while you take your pictures. Your picture quality might suffer compared to manual mode, but you'll have a few less things to think about and you'll get better at a critical element to picture taking, buoyancy control. If you are an experienced diver, just use M mode and take a bunch of pictures so you can get a feel for the settings; you'll get some screwed up pictures, but it will pay off in the long run, and there's no doubt you'll be doing a lot of picture taking. Face it - you're not going to go throw your camera in the trash after one dive (I'm going to assume you won't flood it). Once you've got the 5050 you are *hooked*, and will eventually turn into a photography freak. If my 5050 floods, I'll get a DSLR for my next camera - I am an underwater photography addict at this point.
A different opinion....
I do agree to stay away from P mode. It will give you very slow shutter speeds and it's programed for topside use, not underwater.
Since I assume your brand new to photography, I would have you start with the A mode. This way you set the aperture and the camera selects the shutter speed. You will have some control over your shots yet not have to make all the decisions. It's a good entry into learning manual mode. Study your pics and learn what settings works best, then try Manual mode to see if you can do the same.
As a beginner, I'd also suggest you stay away from RAW until you learn more. Yes, it's an amazing thing but you also have to have a special program to download, view and manipulate those photos. It is something you may decide to use as you get more experience, not only in using the camera but in using a manipulation program like Photoshop CS. I'd stay with SHQ to give you the best compression at this stage.
Whatever you do, learn to use your camera well. Don't be afraid to experiment so you don't get stuck just using it as a point and shoot. The internal flash will work just fine for macro subjects within a couple of feet. You can always add an external strobe later.
I do agree to stay away from P mode. It will give you very slow shutter speeds and it's programed for topside use, not underwater.
Since I assume your brand new to photography, I would have you start with the A mode. This way you set the aperture and the camera selects the shutter speed. You will have some control over your shots yet not have to make all the decisions. It's a good entry into learning manual mode. Study your pics and learn what settings works best, then try Manual mode to see if you can do the same.
As a beginner, I'd also suggest you stay away from RAW until you learn more. Yes, it's an amazing thing but you also have to have a special program to download, view and manipulate those photos. It is something you may decide to use as you get more experience, not only in using the camera but in using a manipulation program like Photoshop CS. I'd stay with SHQ to give you the best compression at this stage.
Whatever you do, learn to use your camera well. Don't be afraid to experiment so you don't get stuck just using it as a point and shoot. The internal flash will work just fine for macro subjects within a couple of feet. You can always add an external strobe later.
FWIW - yes, it makes a tremendous difference. I used internal only on both Canons and Oly...M worked much better than any other method I tried.
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