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Cave Diving Coz with Yucatech Expeditions German Yanez Mendoza
While Cozumels reefs took a heavy hit during last years hurricane theres one group of dive sites that remained untouched: the limestone solution caves. Yucatech Expeditions conveniently located just a couple of blocks off the main square is one of the handful of dive ops that conducts full cave diving. Basically a one man show, German Yanez answers the e-mail, mans the shop, drives the transport, and guides the dives. Its a fun filled day diving with one of the principal explorers of the island caves.
All arrangements were conducted efficiently via the internet. German had my preferred day available, reasonable rates for his rental equipment and dive guide services, and told me to pay him when I got there. I rented a primary light and long hose regulator, everything else I brought. After the obligatory paperwork we rigged our gear on the back of an old pick up and headed to the first site.
Aerolito, currently surveyed to just over 20,000ft in length is listed as the 15th longest cave in the Yucatan. Unlike many of the commercial cenotes along the Riviera Maya Aerolito has no picnic tables, platforms, stairs, or any other dive site enhancements. We drove in on a rutted dirt road right to the edge of the cenote where lake fish could be seen nibbling on algae. Entrance was via a giant stride off the limestone ledge into the cool 74 degree water.
Differences in the structure and appearance of the cave varied considerably based on depth. In the shallowest sections small holes pockmarked the ceilings showing evidence of percolation of rain water into the system. A well defined halocline layer separated the fresh water on top and the salt water lying below. During one long run of cave directly at the halocline we moved through a visually confusing emulsion like an oil and vinegar salad dressing. Generally in the fresh water sections there was more tannin staining of the walls and spelotherms. The flowstones and other limestone features were smoother and more graceful here. In the deeper saltwater passages many decorations and cave structures appeared to be dissolving leaving sharp angles and jagged edges throughout the cave. The floor of the cave is uniformly covered in a layer of fine grey/brown silt.
Known for its relative profusion of life we encountered albino sea stars, white sponges, and blind cave fish. A small centipede-like creature, called Remapede, crawled along a silty ledge. At one point I looked down and was stunned to see a white shell-less tube worm with small squid like tentacles. (Ofioros worm) Reaching down with my index finger I gently touched the worm which immediately grabbed my finger with a surprisingly strong grip for a 31/2 inch creature. Startled I jerked back and the worm let go, popped off the silt, and began vigorously twisting and flopping away in the water column like a Spanish Dancer eventually settling down a couple of feet away.
Negotiating some minor restrictions the cave opens into a beautiful room filled with marvelous decorations and ornamentation. Dribbling flowstones form the walls, sculpted columns of white and brown limestone appear to hold up the roof, and delicate soda straws, stalactites and stalagmites adorn the chamber. Hitting my thirds on the double 80s I make the sign to turn the dive and we begin to slowly retrace our path. All along the way I notice more beautiful formations that Id missed on the way in. Pausing to undo our tie-ins and retrieve our reels Im spellbound by the majesty of this system. Eventually I notice a faint green glow and we stop for some minor decompression before we leave the cave and re-enter the open bowl of the cenote. German later tells me wed penetrated somewhere between 1700 and 1800 ft. My computer says I reached a max depth of 60ft, ran an average depth of 37ft, and spent a total of 92min on the dive.
After a break in town for lunch we reconvene a couple of hours later, load up a fresh set of doubles and roll down the road towards Chankanaab. For this dive we gear up along the shoulder of the highway and follow an almost imperceptible game trail to the cenote. Loaded down in our gear and carrying our fins we hobble through the woods crossing barbed wire fences and pushing through thickets. Eventually we reach a murky brown pond surrounded by jungle. Carefully wading in over the algae covered rocks I find myself bobbing next to a small branch sticking up out of the water. Tied to the branch is a thin white line.
German admonishes me to be careful since if I bust this stick well loose our lifeline. The descent is one at a time through the muddy, zero visibility, brown water. Feet first we slither our way down an almost vertical series of cracks and crevices eventually popping out around 25 ft in the clear flow of the aquifer. This cave, Cueva Quebrada, seems to have a more eerie feel about it. The walls seem darker and the silk looked thicker. We slip through several restrictions in a narrow passage and I momentarily get stuck and have to push back to try a different approach. But just like in Aerolito we break out into large rooms with interesting structures and beautiful decorations.
About 1000 ft back I experience a cramp in my left leg. A quick pull on my fin works it out and I continue onward fining with my right leg and sort of letting my left leg trail behind to recover. Another couple hundred feet further in and my right quadriceps locks up. Switching to my left leg again I continue on for a couple of kicks and realize that this is crazy! Ive been following German, whos unaware of my predicament, and seconds later he slips through a tight spot and disappears into a narrow passage. Having decided to turn the dive I hover and start waving my light from side to side to get his attention, but the glow of his light moves off further into the cave. Taking up a position loosely holding the line I commit one of the worst sins in cave diving: I stand up on the cave floor. I know I may be damaging some delicate structure under the silt and am about to blow the visibility but Ive got to try and press down on my feet to stretch my muscles and break the spasms. Slowly waving my light from side to side I stand there in zero visibility circling the line and working out the cramps. I mentally reconstructed the various jumps wed made on the way in if I somehow found myself having to head back out alone. But in a minute or two the glow of Germans primary light starts illuminating the suspended particles and his facemask pops into view about two feet in front of me. Signaling somethings wrong leg I indicate that Ive got to turn the dive. On the way out both legs went through a series of cramps. I pulled on my fin tips from time to time, kneaded my muscles, and performed a ridiculous imitation of a one legged frog. German actually massaged one of my legs for me as it dangled behind. Limping along on alternate legs with occasional runs of pain free two legged propulsion I made it back through the passageways and restrictions. As we approached the cavern zone German signaled we needed to hang here awhile. As I rested at the safety stop my legs loosened up and I found myself wanting to go back in and look around some more.
All in all it was an embarrassing performance. I apologized for turning our dive prematurely but German was a consummate gentleman, saying he was ready to get out of there anyway, blamed the walk through the jungle in full gear, and steered the conversation to dives hed aborted and cramps hed had. In my heart I knew my less than stellar physical conditioning had been my downfall. However I was pleased that I followed my training, didn't panic, thought through my problems, and made it back out; even if it was with a painful, sloppy kick pattern.
While the caves on Coz are not as highly touted as their brothers across the channel theyre definitely extremely beautiful in their own right and worth the time to explore. German Yanez is a wonderfully personable guide who can show you the best the island has got to offer.
www.yucatech.net
While Cozumels reefs took a heavy hit during last years hurricane theres one group of dive sites that remained untouched: the limestone solution caves. Yucatech Expeditions conveniently located just a couple of blocks off the main square is one of the handful of dive ops that conducts full cave diving. Basically a one man show, German Yanez answers the e-mail, mans the shop, drives the transport, and guides the dives. Its a fun filled day diving with one of the principal explorers of the island caves.
All arrangements were conducted efficiently via the internet. German had my preferred day available, reasonable rates for his rental equipment and dive guide services, and told me to pay him when I got there. I rented a primary light and long hose regulator, everything else I brought. After the obligatory paperwork we rigged our gear on the back of an old pick up and headed to the first site.
Aerolito, currently surveyed to just over 20,000ft in length is listed as the 15th longest cave in the Yucatan. Unlike many of the commercial cenotes along the Riviera Maya Aerolito has no picnic tables, platforms, stairs, or any other dive site enhancements. We drove in on a rutted dirt road right to the edge of the cenote where lake fish could be seen nibbling on algae. Entrance was via a giant stride off the limestone ledge into the cool 74 degree water.
Differences in the structure and appearance of the cave varied considerably based on depth. In the shallowest sections small holes pockmarked the ceilings showing evidence of percolation of rain water into the system. A well defined halocline layer separated the fresh water on top and the salt water lying below. During one long run of cave directly at the halocline we moved through a visually confusing emulsion like an oil and vinegar salad dressing. Generally in the fresh water sections there was more tannin staining of the walls and spelotherms. The flowstones and other limestone features were smoother and more graceful here. In the deeper saltwater passages many decorations and cave structures appeared to be dissolving leaving sharp angles and jagged edges throughout the cave. The floor of the cave is uniformly covered in a layer of fine grey/brown silt.
Known for its relative profusion of life we encountered albino sea stars, white sponges, and blind cave fish. A small centipede-like creature, called Remapede, crawled along a silty ledge. At one point I looked down and was stunned to see a white shell-less tube worm with small squid like tentacles. (Ofioros worm) Reaching down with my index finger I gently touched the worm which immediately grabbed my finger with a surprisingly strong grip for a 31/2 inch creature. Startled I jerked back and the worm let go, popped off the silt, and began vigorously twisting and flopping away in the water column like a Spanish Dancer eventually settling down a couple of feet away.
Negotiating some minor restrictions the cave opens into a beautiful room filled with marvelous decorations and ornamentation. Dribbling flowstones form the walls, sculpted columns of white and brown limestone appear to hold up the roof, and delicate soda straws, stalactites and stalagmites adorn the chamber. Hitting my thirds on the double 80s I make the sign to turn the dive and we begin to slowly retrace our path. All along the way I notice more beautiful formations that Id missed on the way in. Pausing to undo our tie-ins and retrieve our reels Im spellbound by the majesty of this system. Eventually I notice a faint green glow and we stop for some minor decompression before we leave the cave and re-enter the open bowl of the cenote. German later tells me wed penetrated somewhere between 1700 and 1800 ft. My computer says I reached a max depth of 60ft, ran an average depth of 37ft, and spent a total of 92min on the dive.
After a break in town for lunch we reconvene a couple of hours later, load up a fresh set of doubles and roll down the road towards Chankanaab. For this dive we gear up along the shoulder of the highway and follow an almost imperceptible game trail to the cenote. Loaded down in our gear and carrying our fins we hobble through the woods crossing barbed wire fences and pushing through thickets. Eventually we reach a murky brown pond surrounded by jungle. Carefully wading in over the algae covered rocks I find myself bobbing next to a small branch sticking up out of the water. Tied to the branch is a thin white line.
German admonishes me to be careful since if I bust this stick well loose our lifeline. The descent is one at a time through the muddy, zero visibility, brown water. Feet first we slither our way down an almost vertical series of cracks and crevices eventually popping out around 25 ft in the clear flow of the aquifer. This cave, Cueva Quebrada, seems to have a more eerie feel about it. The walls seem darker and the silk looked thicker. We slip through several restrictions in a narrow passage and I momentarily get stuck and have to push back to try a different approach. But just like in Aerolito we break out into large rooms with interesting structures and beautiful decorations.
About 1000 ft back I experience a cramp in my left leg. A quick pull on my fin works it out and I continue onward fining with my right leg and sort of letting my left leg trail behind to recover. Another couple hundred feet further in and my right quadriceps locks up. Switching to my left leg again I continue on for a couple of kicks and realize that this is crazy! Ive been following German, whos unaware of my predicament, and seconds later he slips through a tight spot and disappears into a narrow passage. Having decided to turn the dive I hover and start waving my light from side to side to get his attention, but the glow of his light moves off further into the cave. Taking up a position loosely holding the line I commit one of the worst sins in cave diving: I stand up on the cave floor. I know I may be damaging some delicate structure under the silt and am about to blow the visibility but Ive got to try and press down on my feet to stretch my muscles and break the spasms. Slowly waving my light from side to side I stand there in zero visibility circling the line and working out the cramps. I mentally reconstructed the various jumps wed made on the way in if I somehow found myself having to head back out alone. But in a minute or two the glow of Germans primary light starts illuminating the suspended particles and his facemask pops into view about two feet in front of me. Signaling somethings wrong leg I indicate that Ive got to turn the dive. On the way out both legs went through a series of cramps. I pulled on my fin tips from time to time, kneaded my muscles, and performed a ridiculous imitation of a one legged frog. German actually massaged one of my legs for me as it dangled behind. Limping along on alternate legs with occasional runs of pain free two legged propulsion I made it back through the passageways and restrictions. As we approached the cavern zone German signaled we needed to hang here awhile. As I rested at the safety stop my legs loosened up and I found myself wanting to go back in and look around some more.
All in all it was an embarrassing performance. I apologized for turning our dive prematurely but German was a consummate gentleman, saying he was ready to get out of there anyway, blamed the walk through the jungle in full gear, and steered the conversation to dives hed aborted and cramps hed had. In my heart I knew my less than stellar physical conditioning had been my downfall. However I was pleased that I followed my training, didn't panic, thought through my problems, and made it back out; even if it was with a painful, sloppy kick pattern.
While the caves on Coz are not as highly touted as their brothers across the channel theyre definitely extremely beautiful in their own right and worth the time to explore. German Yanez is a wonderfully personable guide who can show you the best the island has got to offer.
www.yucatech.net
