Complete ScubaPro MK2/R190/R380 Repair Steps/Parts List...

[halocline]

I use the old hose fittings as well. If you use a hose fitting you get a nice flush connection with a hex surface to put in the vise, there's very little torque on the reg body because the fitting is flush against the body rather than extending out from it, and the contact with the reg body is more spread out, not just in the threaded part of the port.

Mainly though, it's what's handy. Anything that requires substantial torque, like a stuck yoke nut on an old reg, I put the whole reg body in the vise with padded jaws.

 

[Zung]

I practiced DA Aquamaster's technique of stepping on the reg body with one foot. There's a bit of a learning curve, but after that, I no longer use any holding devices. My vise is broken, but I feel no urge to replace it.

 

[Zung]

...
R190/R380 Service/Rebuild

5. This is tricky...place the lever arm over the post, then the washer over the post, and compress using one hand.
6. With the other hand, install the nylon lock nut using the nut driver.
...

I just did a R290 Octo myself, and found an easier alternative to deal with the poppet assembly:

• Install a new seat, or flip the old one.
• Install the stem, the poppet, and the spring in the housing (item #28 on my schematic, or 11-380-105).
• Don't install the orifice yet.
• Temporarily screw the valve body (item #6, or 11-190-219) in the valve housing: that keeps everything in place and doesn't touch the seat.
• Rotate the body a little to align the square part of the stem with the housing insert
• Carry on with the lever, the washer and the screw. Take your time, nothing will pop.
• Remove the valve body and goto step 7 above.

I wonder if this'll work with the AIR2? I report back next year when they'll be due for service.

 

[racerken]

Hi, I have an R190 with some corrosion and some crud on the housing internal surface which just won't rub out. On the external surface, I used some metal polish and I'm tempted to use this on the internal surfaces but I thought I'd run it by the experts.

Assuming that the post polished surface was rinsed thoroughly to remove any noxious smells, do you see any problems?

Thanks,

Ken

 

[redacted]

Hi, I have an R190 with some corrosion and some crud on the housing internal surface which just won't rub out. On the external surface, I used some metal polish and I'm tempted to use this on the internal surfaces but I thought I'd run it by the experts.

Assuming that the post polished surface was rinsed thoroughly to remove any noxious smells, do you see any problems?

Thanks,

Ken

The prefereable way to clean that is with an ultrasonic cleaner using detergent for grease (?crud?) and then acid (vinegar & water) for the corrosion (verdigris). In the US cleaner, it would probably take a minute of each. Without the US cleaner, the same cleaning treatments will work but It may take more time and a little manual agitation. Time in the detergent is no problem but the acid treatment goes after both good and bad stuff so try to limit that to 3 to 5 minutes. I tend to avoid too much cleaning unless it is necessary.

 

[iztok]

In regards to R190.

I am looking at a square hole plastic washer that sits between valve housing and the lever. Where can I find one?

http://www.frogkick.dk/manuals/scubapro/Manuals/2. Stage/R290-R190 Repair Guide.pdf

Page 8 bottom diagram. Have no idea how you call it or where to get it.

 

[iztok]

I guess it is called alignment washer. Any idea where to source it?

 

[iztok]

duplicate removed. see next post.

 

[iztok]

I am looking for ScubaPro PN 21-080-121 (for R190). I somehow lost it during clean up. Ugh...

View attachment r190.pdf

 

[ams511]

I realize I am digging up an old thread but feel it is good to keep questions together. Last night I rebuilt a MK-2 I purchased from eBay. It is a newer model with the shiny chrome instead of the matte finish. It cleaned up nicely (even though my ultrasonic started to smoke, lol.) However I have two questions. First, the yoke is loose, there is a small gap between the yoke and the body. It was tightened to specs (266 in/lbs), I wonder is this has anything to do with the dust cap (#1 PN 10101212)? It is out of round and does not gripe correctly. Second, I noticed one of the plastic washers was cracked what are you guys using for new ones? I re-installed the old one figuring it should be ok. The IP on my cheap IP gauge is 120 with two washers. It initially creeped up to about 125 before settling-down to 120. I assume this was due to breaking in a new seat (I flipped the old seat), so it seems to be working fine although the IP is a bit low (assuming my gauge is reading correctly).