ExactlySo i'm clear, you mean that the Bungee pulls back from the Armpit and the boltsnap pulls the cylinder back toward the bungee? (that is to say, both ends are pulling toward the centre of the cylinder?)
You are completely right.Yes, I use the loop bungee system, my cylinders have the manifold extensions, but my Bolt snaps are attached inline with the the manifold extension, not inline with the valve outlet?
I mistranslated my own words and did not realize, sorry.
The way you do it is the way I meant to describe.
---------- Post added July 30th, 2014 at 10:18 AM ----------
I do not use more than two most of the time. Four I never used actively, only played around with it.When you get it tensioned for two does it mess things up when it is four, tension wise?
I attach stages similar to sidemount tanks with an additional boltsnap bungeed around the tank neck and clipped into teh shoulder D-ring.
Top mounted the additional stages are more stable if the main sidemount tanks do not move and stay in good position.
Bottom mounted they are not affected at all before empty and then they are held in place again by the tanks above them.
---------- Post added July 30th, 2014 at 10:32 AM ----------
This looks a bit uncomfortable to me, but not to bad for full 12liters. The boltsnaps are pressing into your back and the square D-rings are pulled to the sides.the only video
I am sure the bottom attachment can be moved down and the bungee has to be a little bit shorter, or stronger.
But I do not think you can get the cylinders to really be further back - from my point of view the valve position is ok the way it is.
The Stealth has more ways to change the bungee than the Razor has. I do not know precisely if moving the bungee attachment on your back will help too. It will move the tank back more effectively than any other change, but it might also stop you from getting the boltsnap low enough on the tank for optimal balance (when more of the cylinder is extending past the attachment, it tents to move more too).
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