Dive computer/depth gauge

[Slonda828]

May I offer two suggestions:

-If you dive square (I know this was mentioned), use a watch and this depth gauge:

Snorkel and Scuba Gear at The Ultimate Dive Shop: Promate Diving Gear - Instruments - Wrist Depth Gauge, Instruments

I've been using this depth gauge for over a year and it works great. It has a max depth indicator as well. 75 bucks is a pretty good deal as most dive shops charge over 100 for just the depth gauge puck that goes into your console. As a bonus you can use it for freediving (which I have) and it works great.

-If you want a computer, the Suunto Gecko is about as nice as you can get for the money, and it uses a modified algorithm that mimicks the reduced bubble gradient model. The Zeagle N2ition is also a great computer and I think they are still on sale from Zeagle. The girlfriend uses a Gecko, and I use the N2ition. I have never had a problem with either. Both of these are also easy to find used and for you to replace the battery yourself. The N2ition is the same as the TUSA and Dive Rite Nitek Duo, they are all made in Asia by some factory. You can do gas switches with them as well, so that means later if you do grow into nitrox or tech, you will not need another computer. They also feature a gauge mode if your particular training agency mandates that.

If you buy console stuff, you are just going to have to move it later if you do anything technical. I know NAUI's TEC configuration and the GUE mandate wrist mounted gauges. I clung tenaciously to my Suunto cobra forever, but once I started technical training it was too much of a PITA to monitor my depth by constantly checking the console. I finally realized that having your depth gauge on a console just doesn't really do anything for me, and it only took me 5 years. I sold it on Ebay and got a wrist computer. I probably lost 150 bucks in that whole setup total. A good SPG and either a wrist computer or depth gauge is really all you need. If you chase bugs you can always mount your gauges higher up on your forearms to facilitate reaching in and grabbing the little buggers. If I had it to do over again, I would save myself a ton of ass pain and just go SPG and wrist computer. Besides, if your regulator ever craps the bed on the dive boat, you can still use your dive computer with the spare regulator the DM offers you. Try that with a console in 5 foot seas. I've never vomited so hard in my entire life until I tried to change out regulator parts with a crescent wrench on a rolling dive boat.

 

[steverino]

I use a Suunto Gecko and am really happy with it (wrist mount).

The official line is that it doesn't support a PC hookup but it does.
I download all of my dive profiles to Sunnto SDM on my PC.

However you must first use a special program to tell the Gecko its a Vyper.
Suunto wrote the SDM software to purposely exclude the Gecko (as it competed with the Vyper).
Other dive manager software may work without this trick as they are not as restrictive/protective

I think Suunto has now caught on to the fact that most people know this so has re-released the Gecko as the Zoop with a new version of the SDM

 

[DiveNav]

...... So here are my options:
get a plain old analog depth gauge for $75 (what a ripoff IMO)
get a Gekko wrist mounted computer (no PC hookup) for 250
get a console mounted computer (PC hookup) for 320....

Hi,
if you are still looking for a dive computer, you could do so using the Dive Computers Research Tool. You can use it to compare various models.
Also, some of the computers - including the Gekko - have videos so you can see them in action.

Alberto (aka eDiver)

 

[Michael Kazma]

Wrist mounted computers are far superior. They are more streamline and are easier to read.

 

[mikecotrone]

I use an Oceanic VT3 w/ Transmitter (wrist/forearm mount) and it works very well. It is very programmable and you are able to use Oceanic's OceanLog Software which is pretty good. However I am using Diving Log 5.0 which is very very good.

 

[Tropicalwolf]

.

What will go on my console now...? It will have an empty space haha.

Shot glass holder at end of dive.

 

[40Fathoms]

Personally, I've always used a wrist mounted computer, for the following reasons:

- I find it easier and more convenient to read than a console
- It keeps my console (which is just a manometer) lighter and easier to handle
- The less integrated things are, the easier it is to replace the individual units
- Finally, when travelling and diving (for instance on family vacation, where I don't dive enough to merit bringing all my gear), I can bring my computer without bringing my reg set.

As for features, you can get computers that'll do everything but brew your morning coffee (though I hear someone's working on it). But in my experience, don't go overboard. For instance, I've had computers with PC interaction, but after the novelty effect wore off (which took two uploads), I never used it again.

 

[fjpatrum]

Well, I didn't think it would happen, but I got my own gear this summer! I got some used gear off craigslist for a very decent price. I am happy with it so far for a starter set.

However, it came with a console mounted electronic depth gauge/thermometer/bottom timer. And the battery is dead. Only it's not as simple as replacing the battery. Since it's an older model, I was told by my LDS that it needs to be replaced.

So here are my options:
get a plain old analog depth gauge for $75 (what a ripoff IMO)
get a Gekko wrist mounted computer (no PC hookup) for 250
get a console mounted computer (PC hookup) for 320

Now, I don't really plan on using the PC for dive logs, but it's nice to have. I would also prefer the console mount since I already have a space for it.

Any ideas?

Personally, I'd replace the battery and test it. It's not really up to the LDS what gear you replace versus what you use. If it's functional, why spend money on additional gear you don't need? The only necessary function it provides is depth and you can always test that against your buddy's computer/depth gauge for a couple of dives to make sure it is accurate. Thermometer is nice but not necessary and you can use a watch as a bottom timer.