Dive knives

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Also, don't forget to spread a layer of Vaseline on the blade before you go diving with it, even if it says it's stainless steel. Not all SS is created equal and keeping water from directly contacting the metal will significantly extend the life of the blade.

R..,

i never thought of that. Thanks!
 
I have a Columbia River line cutter on my open water gear, hundreds of dive both fresh and salt water, and its still in good shape. The Columbia river has both a screw drivers and an O2 wrench on it. Since then the EEZY CUT Trilobite came out and I got them for my daughters at DEMA. I'm impressed with both and would feel comfortable with either.

 
I use the Wenoka squeeze lock knives on my BC's. Like the other posters, I also have the blunt tips.
I grind the point down further by approx. 1/4", and then grind the plastic sheath down to match the length of the blade.

Why do you grind it down?

OP: I use a Wenoka on my Balance, as well as shears on a leg pocket and a line cutter on my chest / sternum strap.
 
I wear it on the waist belt of my back plate, near the center.
I found that the end of the sheath was longer than the blade, and pointed on the end; so it dug into my leg when sitting down.

I grind them all down, so they don't dig in.
About 1/4" or less from the blade, and about 1/2" or a bit more from the sheath.

I also have one of those Trilobite cutters. They are impressive.

Why do you grind it down?

OP: I use a Wenoka on my Balance, as well as shears on a leg pocket and a line cutter on my chest / sternum strap.
 
I used to use a Wenoka compact squeeze, blunt tip, but found it to be not very effective at cutting line which is my nemeses at my local site. I ended up with a trilobite and EMT shears both work much more effectively on line and netting. My only complaint about the trilobite even with rinsing and applying silicone spray I seem to be fighting a losing battle with rust, surprisingly the EMT shears have held up much better.
 
Funny about the rust. I simply rinse and allow mine to dry and have not had any issues with that. But I do dive mostly freshwater. That could make a difference. I do also work in a metal shop with aluminum, brass, copper, titanium, carbon steel, stainless (all grades), and a number of other materials. With metals especially stainless we see rust like discoloration all the time on waterjet cut parts. Most times it is from dissimilar metals in the water of the tank coming into contact with the stainless during the waterjet cutting process. It is not really damaging rust per se but a simple discoloration. Are you taking the cutter apart to clean it? If not that could be your answer. Small particles of salt trapped under the plastic, that rinsing may not get all of, constantly working on it.
 
Funny about the rust. I simply rinse and allow mine to dry and have not had any issues with that. But I do dive mostly freshwater. That could make a difference. I do also work in a metal shop with aluminum, brass, copper, titanium, carbon steel, stainless (all grades), and a number of other materials. With metals especially stainless we see rust like discoloration all the time on waterjet cut parts. Most times it is from dissimilar metals in the water of the tank coming into contact with the stainless during the waterjet cutting process. It is not really damaging rust per se but a simple discoloration. Are you taking the cutter apart to clean it? If not that could be your answer. Small particles of salt trapped under the plastic, that rinsing may not get all of, constantly working on it.

I think you might be right, I don't take it apart, I do let it soak for an hour or so and then rinse under running water and always ensure the pouch is dry before replacing. But looking at it now the rust is forming around the plastic sides of the blade. I'll take it apart to clean in the future. Cheers for the advice.
 
+1 for the EEZY CUT Trilobite, and because nobody else has mentioned them yet.....have a look at the Spyderco knives with the H1 steel. Great knives that hold an edge and really are rust free.
 
SS steel should be after machining treatment passivated or it will rust

Article: Passivation of stainless steels more simple: look under ''ASTM A967 citric acid passivation treatments'' table
 
I have one of those squeeze lock things too. They're good enough and they'll fit the mounting grommets on the BCD. I haven't used a trilobite but I saw a pretty convincing video about it the other day and it's on my list of things I want for Christmas. :)

What ever you do don't spend a whole bunch of money on a dive knife. If you haven't been diving for long you'll soon learn that if you do lose something during a dive it will be your knife.

Also, don't forget to spread a layer of Vaseline on the blade before you go diving with it, even if it says it's stainless steel. Not all SS is created equal and keeping water from directly contacting the metal will significantly extend the life of the blade.

R..,

I need to do that to my sheers!
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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