Does this tank look bad?

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JahJahwarrior

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You can click on the button that says "all sizes" to see it bigger.

I think I see rust spots on the bottom, and I think that means I should not pay $20 for this steel 72 that is out of VIP but has one year left on hydro. What is your opinion scubaboard!
 
Neck
Bottom

You can click on the button that says "all sizes" to see it bigger.

I think I see rust spots on the bottom, and I think that means I should not pay $20 for this steel 72 that is out of VIP but has one year left on hydro. What is your opinion scubaboard!

If the rust has not formed pits, I would buy it. Depends how deep the rust is but it doesn't look bad from the pics
 
The pics don't show much and I am not goingto go looking for my glasses. I am more concerned with the inside, nothing I see on the outside looks unusual.

N
 
So, should I offer him $10 since i'm gonna have to haul out a wire brush to see how deep the rust is? Or should I buy it for $20 assuming it'll be fine? It's been in his garage for a few years, with a boot on. He says it has air in it.

When/if I buy it, should I drain it and try to look inside? What is the best way to do that? I would take it right away for a VIP but I don't know if they would fail it for the rust on the outside, so it might sit for a while until I can wirebrush those spots, which would give theinside more time to form surface rust, right?
 
Neck
Bottom

You can click on the button that says "all sizes" to see it bigger.

I think I see rust spots on the bottom, and I think that means I should not pay $20 for this steel 72 that is out of VIP but has one year left on hydro. What is your opinion scubaboard!
While the external status of the tank is of importance, what really matters is how the inside has fared. It's already been observed that the outside surface doesn't look bad by scuba standards (though careful assessment of depth of any pitting etc - there are clearly defined standards - would be necessary). It's not advisable to attempt an assessment yourself. Take the tank for a Viz and pay the modest price for an assurance that it's not going to let you down. Make passing the viz a condition of purchase - and be prepared to pay for the inspection. My bet is that the tank will pass quite readily.... and you'll get a modest bargain....
 
One way or another it is going to have to go in for a visual inspection. If the rust on the outside is deep enough for it to fail, no amount of wire brushing is going to fix it, and you could make the issue worse because it will be harder to spot. Even if the cylinder does fail a visual, cylinders can be media blasted and hydro-ed. The only time cylinders are condemned are when the fail hydro. $20 is pretty good for a cylinder, worse case scenario for you is that you buy the cylinder, pay for a visual, fail and pay for cleaning and hydro. I can't really tell you what to offer, but remember, if it passes this year, it will still have to go through hydro next year.

I second the opinion that what is on the inside is more important, and while checking yourself isn't actually very difficult, its pointless if you don't know what to look for. Ideally you could get a visual inspection done before you buy it.
 
It's probably at least $20 worth of steel. If it fails, sell it to a scrap yard.

Around here, they pay clase to $30 for AL 80s at scrap yards. I'm not sure what people get for steel tanks.
 
So...would the shop clean the outside of it? I've never heard of a shop offering that, though I know they offer tumbling for the inside. I know you can get a tank mediablasted but I've never been to a shop that advertised a price for it.

i can get it vipped for $12, $33 will get it hydroed and vipped, they want $25 to tumble it.
 
Just buy it, and if it fails hydro you can turn it into a bell.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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