"Felt" bikes...anybody know anything?

[Steve Egner]

Any advice from cyclists out there regarding the used Vitus Al

The Vitus is a well-respected though uncommon road bike. In all the years I've ridden, I've seen three of them... One on a double century, one in a garage, and the one in your picture.

$500 bucks was a screaming good deal. Shimano 105 is a durable group, you won't wear it out.

Your neck problems will disappear as you put in more miles, and you'll never get them again.

That is a beautiful bike.

Steve

 

[MoonWrasse]

thanks fellas. I am not doing any banking. I want to know a couple things...

Should I use rear brake mostly?

Is there a system to changing gears? I can look it up if there is....

Keep you weight back when you brake, otherwise you can flip forward. Use both and keep your brake cables in good shape. Nothing worse than wanting to stop for a crossing car and have a cable snap (happened to me a long time ago).

Gear changing - avoid cross chaining as it will wear on the chain and sprockets.
Also if you learn to dual shift (i.e. when shifting a front sprocket up also shift a rear one).

REI: The Art of Shifting:
http://www.rei.com/online/store/Lea...cling&url=rei/learn/cycle/clskillsf.jsp#shift

 

[bladephotog]

The front brake provides most of the stoping power while the rear brake is used for control. You never want to lock up either one. Locking up the front brake will send you over the bars. Locking up the back can send you into a slide - especially when it's wet out. Also, if you will put a flat spot in the tire which pretty much ruins the tire IMO. I use them evenly most of the time. Look ahead and slow down in advance.

I'm a big fan of Michelin tires but also ride Continentals. For your type of riding avoid the super expensive racing tires. They are usually soft and comfortable but wear easily. However, I still ride Michelin Pro Race tires even though I no longer race because I've had good luck with them and I like the feel. But they are expensive at about $48 per tire. And folding tires are much easier to put on then non-folding.

And pump the tires before every ride. Tire pressure will go down quickly. So I always pump them before I ride. And if it's wet out run your tire pressure a bit lower than normal for more control. Have fun.

 

[Cacia]

Thanks Steve! and the link, Moon! You all are the best. Can't believe the help I have gotten on this little venture.

Steve, I kind of just trusted the guy at the shop...he could have sold me a 1500 bike. This one fit me and I could tell he had the passion for seeing it fixed up...so I thought 500 dollars...if I make a mistake I will get over it...(although I AM broke)

I keep thinking there are probably "counter bend" things to do with your neck. Could be my seat is too low, to tell the truth. I needed it a little low cause of the inexperience, traffic, etc.

Bladephotog, thanks. I think I will get a foot pump so it has a gauge on it too, yea?

 

[bladephotog]

Bladephotog, thanks. I think I will get a foot pump so it has a gauge on it too, yea?

Makes sense. Can't go wrong with a Silca pump. They are the best.

Andy

 

[Cacia]

Well, we have been riding almost every day. I am only good for ten miles at a time with a meal halfway through. Some guy said the other day "IS THAT a Vitus!!??" he was all excited because he rides one and never sees them....

Bike freaks are a lot like Scubageeks, I have found.

Somebody sent me "the art of shifting" and I lost it. I need it and so I will google, unless you stumble in here and remember where it came from. It sure is fun and a good painless workout. I never knew it would be so fun....your brain stays engaged and so before you know it you have your blood pumping. My son wants to ride so I am looking for an inexpensive starter road bike...


MY BAD. I just found it right under my nose. Never mind....

The Cogs—Numbering one through seven cogs (and even up to nine cogs) the rear cassette is responsible for the finer points of shifting. Say you see a slight rise coming on the trail. It's not big enough for you to go into your small chainring, but you know it will slow your cadence down. Time to shift to a larger cog.

I am not really doing this very well. Any suggestions? makes sense when I read it but I still cannot feel which cog I am on. Leaning over and looking is not woking out too well either. Anybody on a cycling forum for beginners where I can pick up some help?

 

[WIBB]

Just be patient and spend some time on the bike. Cadence, speed, and relative comfort will come in time.

If you want to monitor your cadence and speed, I recommend you pick up a computer like this one. It is cheap and effective.

For now, just keep yourself in a zone of easy to moderate effort at a leg spin slightly above what your legs want to do. Many people seem to have a natural cadence of around 75-80. Gear up or down to stay in your effort zone.

Once you get comfortable on the bike, then consider at least a 3 day format. One day is short and hard efforts (maybe 20-30 min total out of an hours ride. Do short bursts, recover, and repeat then finish off with a steady pace), another day is steady moderate pace, and a third day of easy to moderate pace with distance. Log your efforts and your distances. On the distance day add a little more distance. On the hard days note the gear, cadence, and effort. Do a little more each time. If you ride more than those 3 days then make them fun rides.

Results? You'll see nice gains (strength and fitness) for sure.

Don't forget to cooldown and stretch. Make that a mandatory part of your ride. It is just as important as the rest.

 

[Cacia]

thanks...

when you say "slightly above" do you mean a larger cog? You mean make it a little harder....yes, I am starting to do that. We did eight miles after coming home from Molakai yesterday---we were so tired so we went out for an easy one and JB remarked I am riding more in a lower gear and that was good. He has the cadence on his computer. Thanks for the link. I have been targeting heart rate around 150 and I think my cadence is around 70.

My biggest issue is fear of getting hit. We ride on a busy road (but lots of cyclists). I am a bit unsure approaching intersections and sidestreets.

I had a computer, Sigma? It was knocked into the ocean at the slip. So, I was wondering, I guess I need to change the wires that go to my wheels too.

 

[WIBB]

"Slightly above" was in reference to your leg spin (cadence). Start riding and fall in to your normal rhythm after a short warm up. Then keep the bike in a comfortable gear and concentrate on spinning a little faster. Change gears to an easier gear if you have to, in order to maintain that cadence.

80-85 is a good steady state cadence. 50-70 is a good strengthening cadence. 100+ is a good interval training cadence (short hard bursts).

That doesn't necessarily mean that you absolutely have to ride at 80-85 cadence. But, if you are chugging away at 60-70 all the time then you may be working too hard. Unless you are doing short muscle tension efforts, you probably want to be at a higher cadence.

Why?

We have a tendency to grind away at a low cadence and stomp on the pedals. Therefore, I believe in the benefits of cadence training and proper spin technique (push-pull). Try one legged spin drills to feel what proper pedaling feels like. Yes, it does feel weird at first. Note, you need a pedal cage or shoes with clips to do this.

Just think about it as you ride.

It is good to vary your cadence and gearing to get a different workout and more benefit. So, don't take my cadence suggestion as an end all.... I think it is a good place to start is all.


Yes, If you change computers it will have to be rewired.

 

[Cacia]

okay thanks. So that is good news that I don't have to power it so hard cause I have some sore legs today. Okay if two people are mismatched and trying to ride together, that could be the problem.

One more question...what is the proper way to hold the handlebars? I am getting these deep blisters on the pads of my thumbs. (plane next to my index) I wear gloves.