Flash Questions

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

DvrRick

Contributor
Messages
236
Reaction score
2
Location
South Orange County, CA
Ok, I am utterly confused and the more I read the worse it gets. I have an OLY 5050 with a PT-015 and am looking for an external flash for my trip to the ABC's in June. I can't determine what type of flash to get or what the major differences are. There are "slave", "sync", etc, etc and I have no idea where to start.

I am looking for something fairly inexpensive ~$300 that will work well with wide angle and macro (I know that specific items for specific shots is the "best" way to go but I don't have the $). Can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks!

Rick
 
A current strobe comparison chart:

Underwater Strobe Comparison Guide - Digital Diver Network

There are two ways to trigger a strobe, either with a direct connection through a cable or with a trigger that responds to another strobe going off near by.

Most directly connected strobes these days are TTL (through the lens). This is because your camera meters the strobe output and adjusts the light for proper exposure through the cable.

Slaved strobes have a light sensor which triggers the strobe it's attached to. These days this is usually from the internal strobe of a digital camera. You have to adjust the strobe and camera for proper exposure.

If I was in the market for a basic slave strobe I would look at Inon or Sea and Sea products first.

Hope this gets you started.
 
Hi Rick
Tough issue to solve when you're starting out. Personally, I think there are two strobe within your budget new that would serve you well. There are a few issues to tackle. Manual versus TTL.

1. YS27DX - This is a well built light that makes a good manual strobe. It has 9 different stops. You can use manual strobes without knowing anything about exposure you can set up the camera, fire a test shot. If its too dark, increase the strobe output, if its too washed out, decrease the strobe output.
2. DS50/51 with ikelites external TTL trigger - This strobe with the external TTL device will automatically meter your light for you..just like your internal strobe.

Both of these are optically triggered by your cameras internal strobe. The output on both strobes will likely cover your built in lens from WA to macro.

The 3rd option, which I started out with, is the housed FL20 strobe from Olympus. This offers hardwired TTL. This means there's a small cable going from the hotshoe on your camera to the ttl port on the housing. Then another cable going from the port to the strobe. It has some advantages in that it prolongs battery life because you're not using your internal strobe and is designed for oly ttl.

If I were starting over, I'd probably go for the YS27DX which is the most powerful of the 3.
 
First off, you can not use a TTL strobe with the PT-15, no connection, so you must go with a slaved stobe one of some kind. If you get one of the less expensive, single power (or limited control) strobes you will have to learn to use manual on your camera...which by the way is the best way to shoot the 5050. I would avoid strobes that are not fiber connected. They will slave off other's strobes and tend to be less predictable firing. My best advise is to learn to shoot the 5050 without a strobe until you can spend the bucks to get one of the more expensive strobes. They are more versatile and more powerful than the less expensive ones.
 
Thanks for the info everyone, I am starting to get a better handle on this. I am looking at a YS-27 and a YS-110 for Sea & Sea. Is the extra $ for the YS-110 worth it? there are 3 extra settings and it is TTL compatible if I change cameras and housings later on. I'd love to drop $1000 or more but then I couldn't take my trip which is the reason I want it in the first place:wink:.

I found a new Sea & Sea setup for $379. Is this a good deal?
YS-27
Single Sea Arm Bracket
Fiber Optic Cable
 
The YS-110 is def worth looking at over the 27. Besides the extra manual setting it has a wider beam angle, more power and a sudo TTL for use with your camera/housing (plus a really TTL for cabled use). I suspect it does not come with a tray or arm so you have to add that into your cost. The 27 is going to require you to learn manual operation of the camera. Personally I prefer manual but if your wanting to use it in a P&S or A priority you will need some form of TTL, something the 27 does not offer.
 
Here's a site to the Inon's...I've also heard of a guy named Yuzo in Japan that sells them even cheaper but don't have his contact info. [/url]

Yuzo's contact info is in the Sticky - follow the Pink Link in my signature.

I love dealing with him and also adore my Inon strobes. I've used them with my Canon compacts, my Oly 5050 (both with fibre optic cables) and my dslr rigs (hard wired synch). Wouldn't trade them :)

I don't use ttl and certainly don't miss it.
 
OOPS! I have the Oly 5060 not the 5050. How does that effect everything? Does it make a difference in the recommendations above? I feel so lame.

I really like the idea of using P&S or the A setting but it will cost me about $300 more for the YS-110 with the tray, arm, etc.

Here is the big question. Being that I am on a tight budget is the YS-110 worth another $300 or so? I am an amateur just looking to get better color and clarity and have some fun but I'm not looking to save $ if I'll only be disappointed in the end. I'm really looking for some honest opinions to make a decision.

Thanks all, in just the last few hours I have become much more educated.
 
Just a note of caution. I know several folks (larryC) had issues with the YS110 working with the SP350 from Oly in wireless mode. I've also heard from others that the wireless TTL on the YS110 doesn't play well with the Oly cameras. I've personally used the YS27DX on my SP350 and it worked fine. BTW...if your new to photography Alcina's (Kristin) post has a link that is a great read. You'll learn more in 2 hours than you thought possible.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

Back
Top Bottom