Getting to the perfect buoyancy

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Ari

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Any good ideas about getting perfect buoyancy?

The principals are clear, but what about some good practical advices. And don't send me to RSD, already been there.

Thanks for your ideas.

Ari :idea:
 
1) Burn a tank or two in a pool doing just hovers and fin pivots. Just concentrate on that skill and no other. Some other pointers...

2) Perfect buoancy starts with perfect weighting. Figure this out with only 200 to 300 psi in your tank! and you should STILL be a slight tad negative!

3) Slow down on your trigger finger! Try to NOT let lots of air out only to have to put more air in! On the other hand, don't forget the power of inertia either. Hit your air BEFORE you get to the bottom!

4) BE STILL... motion begets motion! Keep your hands folded or at your side.

5) Learn to adjust your attitude (not mental but physical) as you "gluide" through the water. Adjusting your trim will help alot here.

6) Monitor your breathing, but don't stop! Keep it regular and understand how it will make you rise and fall a bit.

7) In case you missed it... PRACTICE!!!
 
that would be DIVE

the more time you can spend underwater getting use to things the faster you will learn, like mentioned use a pool at first easy access to the side and weights, then once you are close to a good weight, dive and dive some more.
 
Hi Ari,
You want perfect buoyancy, do you???

In a static situation.... not moving...
Neutral buoyancy is a state... not a skill...
Maintaining neutral buoyancy is only possible by not breathing....
But since you must breath your buoyancy will change....
Managing this change so that your buoyancy swing centers on neutral buoyancy takes modest skill...
but soon becomes second nature...
Like standing...



Moving through the water complicates things.....
If you move forward with your head up and your body at a postive angle of attack you will generate lift and go up...
this is not positive buoyancy.... this is dynamic lift...
If you move forward with your head down the opposite will happen....

So then we can compensate for the positive and/or negative lift with our BC so that we can maintain a constant depth and the appearance of neutral buoyancy.....

but if we stop...the truth wins and we either sink or rise...
That is why many divers have trouble stopping... and swim all the time!!! Rototillers I call em....

Many divers have to add additional compensation when they stop... usually frantic hand movement and/or adding and dumping air.....

The solution is called TRIM.... it is a state not a skill....
Trim yourself so that resting in the water you are perfectly horizontal without any movement of hands or fins....
This is done by placing your weights in such position that you are balanced....
Moving your tank up or down a few inches makes a big difference...
Where you position your weight belt and any additional weights makes a big difference....
Having your weights in your weight intergrated BC may not be the best place for trim.... so??? what is more important????

Swim horizontally and you will not produce either positive nor negative lift.....

If you come to a state of neutral buoyancy (not difficult to do) and have a state of horizontal trim.... you will be able to maintain neutral buoyancy whether moving or stopped....

Now here is where a lot of divers make a big mistake....
Using ankle weights insures that you will be trimmed in a heads up attitude..... and have positive lift while swimming and sink as soon as you stop.... and become a Rototiller...

Paradoxically having to much weight toward your head (tank too high) will cause you to tend head down and you will most likely compensate by *dropping your feet* and getting into a heads up again.... doing the porpoise between rising and sinking.... and when you stop... if you can stop... you will probably float up..... at least you won't be Rototilling....

Without proper trim you will never be able to maintain *perfect buoyancy* ..... perfect TRIM is the key to perfect buoyancy control....
End of sermon....
Go and Trim some more...
 
Ahhhh, yes, the Zen of diving, the unobtainable perfect bouyancy characteristic.....

While the tips above are great, there is one more to think about: how do you feel about diving that day in those conditions with the kit you brought? If you are uncomfortable, even subconsciously, you will tend to breath more air and change your buoyancy. Every dive will lead to different characteristics; every dive = practice = experience = better bouyancy. However, something will always be there that will not allow for the all out perfect buoyancy. I can get close (by using the tips above), but I have yet to obtain the Zen of diving. Every dive is different and I hope to get there some day....

Cheers :)
 
Practice..trim..breathing..think everyone else covered what I was going to say..and then some!

Remember, 90% of us had to learn bouyancy too. The other 10% I put in the same catagory as women who can eat ANYTHING they want and not gain an ounce..they aren't NORMAL! :D

But, you will never forget the dive when you realized you "got it"! It will go down as one of your best dives ever!

Takes time, but its worth it!!
 
As long as I keep my weights at or near my waist (my center) I achieve trim merely by moving my body. If I'm underweighted (or have extra air in my BC) I'll be head down because I'll be staying down by constantly kicking down. If I'm overweighted (or I haven't added air to my BC at depth) I'll be head up because I'm constantly swimming up to stop from bumping the bottom. Folks swimming close to the bottom with this attitude are the worst churners of silt. If I have neutral buoyancy trim follows naturally, just like a weightless astronaut I can put my attitude anywhere I want by shifting my weight (not my weights). In my opinion, the entire concept of trim is much simpler than most would have us believe. Achieving trim by proper positioning of weights is sometimes necessary for divers with disabling conditions. For the majority of us it's unnecessary. When I see a diver with poor trim I never think he needs to shift his weight, I think he needs to add or remove weight.

DSSW,

WWW™
 
Bouyancy. I don't really think much about it any more, but this is what I do.

I know how much weight I need for:

1) No Wet Suit
2) Farmer John Only
3) Shorty only
4) Full Wet Suit

To get these weights, you get in the water with the gear and these conditions and you put on and take off weight until you are floating just at eye level with a full breath of air. (I am actually a little negative than that most of the time.)

Then when I dive, I use just enough air in my BC at depth to keep me neutral. It takes some practice. You want to try to keep your body horizontal all the time. Also takes some practice. I found it to be fairly natural, but I know some people have problems with this.

Just my 2cents.
 
Originally posted by Walter
If I have neutral buoyancy trim follows naturally, just like a weightless astronaut I can put my attitude anywhere I want by shifting my weight (not my weights

Cool... an astronaut.
How did you shift your weight when you were weightless?
 
Gosh durnit Uncle Pug, I haven’t had the time to reply to this note and you beat me to my points.

When not moving (static), your big two contributors to buoyancy are, in order:

1. Weighting
2. Breath control

Breath control is something you get a handle on by just playing with it. There’s enough hysteresis in the “system” to give you the appearance of perfect, non-moving neutral buoyancy once you practice it.

Once you start moving (dynamic) things change however, in that the big two become:

1. Weighting
2. Trim

Breath control is a distant third because you can overcome the delta buoyancy of breathing by very subtle changes in your kick, so subtle that you’re not even aware of them.

The fact that trim is so very important is why I’m a backplate bigot. I’ll come back to this later.

The most buoyant part of one’s body is the chest, where these huge flotation chambers called the lungs are located. The most negative portion of the body is the most muscular, the legs. Strapping any kind of weight just between the two, like a weight belt or even integrated weight pockets adds even more negative buoyancy to the end of your body that is ALREADY negative, giving, I’d estimate over 90% of divers a head up attitude in the water. As Uncle Pug stated, in this attitude when you start swimming not only do you get lift off your chest forcing you up, but your fin kick thrust is down. To counteract this you have to modify your kick such that some thrust is keeping your legs up. Not only is this a waste of your propulsive energy, in some cases you need to dump air from your BC to keep you from going up due to the downward thrust that’s keeping your legs “properly trimmed.”

You need to distribute your weight such that your natural body position is horizontal, not vertical. Many jacket BCs these days come with trim pockets which hold a pound or two, which may work if you’re only diving in warm, tropical waters with only a skin. You need to move a significant amount of your weight over your back to be correctly trimmed, so the proper thing to do is to take a significant amount of weight off your belt and put it high on your cylinder. One easy way to do this is to thread a weight on the tank band before you tighten it over your cylinder. You still end up with plenty of ditchable weight, but now your weight is balanced about your center of mass (if you correctly distribute it).

As UP says, if you can be perfectly still and perfectly horizontal, you’ve nailed your trim. You can start, stop, hover closely to a reef without touching it, etc. without ever touching your BC.

My apologizes, NetDoc, but I’m going to take a poke at you. :)

NetDoc stated to practice fin pivots. By all means jump in the pool and try and do a fin pivot. If you can successfully do a fin pivot, you’ll know for sure that your trim is all wrong. You’re trimmed feet down if your feet remain on the bottom as your body rises. If your entire body, from fintip to head, comes off the bottom of the pool as a unit, you’ve got your trim right. One suggestion I give to people is to throw a handful of coins in the pool and go around picking them up. If you can drift down to the coin on an exhale, pluck it off the bottom without any part of your body touching the bottom, and then rise away in a horizontal position on the next inhale, you’ve got it. Not only do you know your trim is right, but you’re learning what you can do with your breathing. To make it more challenging, shorten your “reach” to the coin until it’s only inches in front of your mask when you pick it up. Next time on a reef you’ll be able to closely scrutinize that feather duster without anything touching the reef.

You’ll also see a bonus in a drop in air consumption because you’re not using any thrust to maintain correct trim, all your thrust is used for forward movement, so you expend less energy.

A huge amount of blame for poor trim I place squarely on the shoulder of instructors and divemasters. Ever go on a led scuba dive where the instructor or divemaster is trying to be a good buoyancy example at the safety stop by hanging vertically, motionless in the water with a smug look of “this is how it’s done!”?

To me they might as well have a huge neon sign hanging around their neck that says: “I have no clue.”

Not only does this demonstrate that they have horrible trim, but a vertical position is the worst position for gas exchange due to the hydrostatic head that’s developed between the top and bottom of your lungs. The alveoli at the bottom are subjected to a greater pressure (about .5 psi) and don’t expand as readily as the ones near the top. In a horizontal position this pressure difference is more than halved, and more alveoli can be used for effective gas exchange.

Now for the backplate diatribe. For all the above reasons, this is why backplates work so gosh darn well. A SS backplate puts somewhere between 5 to 11 pounds of weight right at your center of mass. A steel cylinder adds even more. All at your center of mass. The absolutely worst combination in terms of trim is a jacket BC and an AL80. Guess what the majority of divers dive in?

The jacket BC is a very poor solution to the buoyancy problem. It adds no weight on its own and it forces you to put all your weight lower than your lungs, though they pile a hack solution upon a hack solution by introducing integrated weights and trim pouches (can you say “thousands of square inches of material to increase drag?”).

A backplate is simple, maintainable, modular, more streamlined and puts the weight exactly where it’s needed, not exactly where it’s not needed, as in the case of a jacket BC. In the last five years there’s been a huge groundswell in backplate followers and backplates are starting to creep into the mainstream, though in the guise of “tech” gear. They’re not tech gear, they’re just as effective on a warm reef as a couple thousand feet back in a cave. They make diving easier, simpler and more enjoyable. Because of many shop’s requirements that instructors and divemasters can only wear what the shop sells, most professionals cannot wear a backplate system when teaching at this point in time. When backplates become a little bit more mainstream maybe they’ll have that option and can begin teaching students correct trim, rather than just static buoyancy control.

Roak
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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