Help! Dominica or Grenada?

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I love Dominica. I spent 11 days there in March, my 12th trip since 1998. It was part of a big birthday celebration, one of those frightening ones that end in a zero, so I rented an upscale villa in the hills above Roseau, with a pool and household help. Beautiful, and all for $170 per night. Dominica is inexpensive, except for trendy ecojoints. Food is the only issue. Most restaurants are mediocre at best. We had a cook come in every other night. What the hell, you only turn 70 once. There is one big problem, though.

I suggest scheduling soon, because the best way to get there is American Eagle from San Juan. American Eagle is going out of business in 10 months, and the only other air service I know of is LIAT. Terrible company, poorly maintained aircraft, unpleasant people, difficult, unreliable, 'Luggage In Another Terminal'. Perhaps a new carrier will step in, absorb American Eagle's 1 pm flight into Dominica, but the small group of businesses in Dominica that cater to the non-cruise ship customer are very worried, and with good reason.

If you go, consider renting a 4 wheel drive vehicle. I drive one every trip, wouldn't consider any other way. The freedom and mobility are priceless. Those who say the roads and driving there are too difficult are a pack of crybaby little girls, most of whom cannot even drive a standard shift. I've never had a problem driving there. It requires total focus, but is thoroughly exhilarating. It's an incredible island, very few tourists, most of the interior untouched, primal, mad scary beautiful, most of the topography more vertical than horizontal, and more shades of explosive green than you ever imagined existed. Don't be one of those lazy frightend tourists who pathetically wait for people to drive them to places as if they were 12 years old waiting for mom to bring them to soccer practice.

Did I mention that the diving is superb? Do Scotts Head without fail.
 
I love Dominica. I spent 11 days there in March, my 12th trip since 1998. It was part of a big birthday celebration, one of those frightening ones that end in a zero, so I rented an upscale villa in the hills above Roseau, with a pool and household help. Beautiful, and all for $170 per night. Dominica is inexpensive, except for trendy ecojoints. Food is the only issue. Most restaurants are mediocre at best. We had a cook come in every other night. What the hell, you only turn 70 once. There is one big problem, though.

I suggest scheduling soon, because the best way to get there is American Eagle from San Juan. American Eagle is going out of business in 10 months, and the only other air service I know of is LIAT. Terrible company, poorly maintained aircraft, unpleasant people, difficult, unreliable, 'Luggage In Another Terminal'. Perhaps a new carrier will step in, absorb American Eagle's 1 pm flight into Dominica, but the small group of businesses in Dominica that cater to the non-cruise ship customer are very worried, and with good reason.

If you go, consider renting a 4 wheel drive vehicle. I drive one every trip, wouldn't consider any other way. The freedom and mobility are priceless. Those who say the roads and driving there are too difficult are a pack of crybaby little girls, most of whom cannot even drive a standard shift. I've never had a problem driving there. It requires total focus, but is thoroughly exhilarating. It's an incredible island, very few tourists, most of the interior untouched, primal, mad scary beautiful, most of the topography more vertical than horizontal, and more shades of explosive green than you ever imagined existed. Don't be one of those lazy frightend tourists who pathetically wait for people to drive them to places as if they were 12 years old waiting for mom to bring them to soccer practice.

Did I mention that the diving is superb? Do Scotts Head without fail.

You described Dominica well, right down to the fantastic interior and mediocre at best food. Bad news about American Eagle.
 
I have never been, but I know there are sperm whales in Dominica. That would be an incredible experience. The TV show Descending went there and had a local boat that seemed experienced find the pod.

Would be a wicked adventure, although it would take some work to organize I would think without looking in to it.
 
I have never been, but I know there are sperm whales in Dominica. That would be an incredible experience. The TV show Descending went there and had a local boat that seemed experienced find the pod.

Would be a wicked adventure, although it would take some work to organize I would think without looking in to it.

I've seen Sperm Whales several times from shore, and once from small sailboard. I was a half mile off shore mid-island near Mero when a huge Sperm whale surfaced repeatedly about 300 to 400 yards away twisting its boat sized pectorals, sending up flashing geysers filled with stunned small fishes. Its massive head came completely out of the water reflecting early morning waterlight while its underslung jaw scissored the water. I floated awestruck for a long, long time, unwilling to break the spell until all traces and scents had vanished. It was a gift from the island.

I'm told the water where I was that morning is almost a thousand feet deep even though close to shore, because of the rapid dropoffs in some places, which are really the underwater continuation of steeply sloping mountains that continue straight into the sea.
 
I have never been, but I know there are sperm whales in Dominica. That would be an incredible experience. The TV show Descending went there and had a local boat that seemed experienced find the pod.

Would be a wicked adventure, although it would take some work to organize I would think without looking in to it.

We did the topside boat whale watching tour in Dominica, 3+ hours on the surface looking for them and never saw one. I believe you need a special permit to dive with them, typically given out to researchers.
 
I love Dominica. I spent 11 days there in March, my 12th trip since 1998. It was part of a big birthday celebration, one of those frightening ones that end in a zero, so I rented an upscale villa in the hills above Roseau, with a pool and household help. Beautiful, and all for $170 per night. Dominica is inexpensive, except for trendy ecojoints. Food is the only issue. Most restaurants are mediocre at best. We had a cook come in every other night. What the hell, you only turn 70 once. There is one big problem, though.

I suggest scheduling soon, because the best way to get there is American Eagle from San Juan. American Eagle is going out of business in 10 months, and the only other air service I know of is LIAT. Terrible company, poorly maintained aircraft, unpleasant people, difficult, unreliable, 'Luggage In Another Terminal'. Perhaps a new carrier will step in, absorb American Eagle's 1 pm flight into Dominica, but the small group of businesses in Dominica that cater to the non-cruise ship customer are very worried, and with good reason.

If you go, consider renting a 4 wheel drive vehicle. I drive one every trip, wouldn't consider any other way. The freedom and mobility are priceless. Those who say the roads and driving there are too difficult are a pack of crybaby little girls, most of whom cannot even drive a standard shift. I've never had a problem driving there. It requires total focus, but is thoroughly exhilarating. It's an incredible island, very few tourists, most of the interior untouched, primal, mad scary beautiful, most of the topography more vertical than horizontal, and more shades of explosive green than you ever imagined existed. Don't be one of those lazy frightend tourists who pathetically wait for people to drive them to places as if they were 12 years old waiting for mom to bring them to soccer practice.

Did I mention that the diving is superb? Do Scotts Head without fail.

American Eagle (the airline) is going out of business?!?! i know AA is in bankruptcy but that's restructuring, not shutting down ops... if you have a link to this please include as it would make my future caribbean travel less convenient as a One-World flyer.
 
The end of American Eagle is being widely discussed. American Eagle Airlines has already notified its employees that all service out of its San Juan hub will end in March of 2013. It's shutting down in San Juan, and the whole subsidiary corporation is up for sale, but no buyers yet that have been made public. I hope something comes alondg soon, but the reality is that global economic problems have reduced the number of people flying to the more remote and smaller Caribbean destinations. My last trip in early March was 3/4 empty going down on a weekday and half empty coming back on a Saturday. It's been that way for quite a while. I flew AE last fall to the Virgin Islands. The flight down was so light I thought they might cancel. The only crowded flights to or from Dominica I have ever seen were those congruent with class starting and ending dates at Ross.

The industry is, as always, very hush-hush, 'no comment', but the governments down there are extremely worried. Here's a link: http://thedominican.net/2012/04/american-eagle-phase-out-.html

From what I've see going on there recently, you may be able to fly to Dominica from China soon.
 
There is a medical college on Dominca and many US students pack-up and move to the school with a whole lot of baggage. The college will have an enrollment issue next year if an alternate carrier isn't brought in. I don't the little tiny planes that fly into Rosseau will be able to handle the student baggage.
 
The last time I was there was 2009. They were working to build a runway that would accomodate larger aircraft. Does anyone who has been there lately have an update on the Construction along the ocean by the airport?
 
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