Help with RAW Photos

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Guitarcrazy

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I purchased a TG-5 and Olympus housing and used it this past week on our trip to Cozumel. I have never tried to use a camera in manual mode before, and I am not really certain the best way to employ it. I shot in RAW with jpeg so I can see what I shot. Some shots I used aperture mode, some in Program mode, and some in Auto. I am not sure that I got any better shots in the manual modes than I did in Auto. I am playing with Lightroom to see how to best render the photos, but again I am a newby. Any TG-5 and Lightroom pros that have suggestions I would love to hear them. Here are a few sample shots I took. Thanks.
 

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How much of an amateur are you? I mean, do you understand what "program mode" does? Do you understand what a wide aperture on a primary lens will do? Do you understand using RAW in Lightroom will allow you to make much finer adjustments?

I am not trying to be pedantic. I am just trying to ascertain your level of experience. I don't want to waste either of our time explaining what you already know. I'm no expert, but I have some knowledge of above the water DSLR photography. I like the crab shot, btw.
 
I know that aperture priority sets the size of the aperture, and has an impact on depth of field and shutter speed. What I don't know is when I would want to, especially underwater. With more shots underwater I will probably get to where I feel like a subject is better for one setting or another, but this past trip I was taking some shots in auto, then some in A, and then some in P, and just seeing what happens. I don't have any illusions of becoming a pro photographer, but I do enjoy capturing the animals we find on our dives. Thanks. J
 
You don't actually have manual on a TG-5, Av just lets you pick the aperture and the camera picks the shutter speed. The advantage of Av over other modes is it gives you some control, in the exposure you have shutter speed aperture and ISO. The TG-5 has a small sensor and it gets noisy if ISO gets too high, it also has great depth of field for wide angle , so you don't need to stop down much for most shots, so setting it f2.8, with ISO set to 100 is a good standby and will ensure your shutter speed is high enough to stop the action. Probably makes little difference in clear shallow water with a lot of light but as you go deeper you'll be struggling for shutter speed. Appears you're using the flash on some shots which is working OK by the looks of things.

The other thing is getting it set right for macro, looks like you're using the flash on the arrow crab which has worked fine, there you probably want f8, ISO100 and the flash on forced (not fill or slow sync) What you are trying to do there is make the exposure 100% flash, and if I recall correctly Av and forced flash will prevent the camera dropping shutter speed way low to try and get an ambient light exposure. If you don't do that at f8 the shutter speed is often quite low and may allow blur. Using f8 and low ISO is trying to make the ambient (non flash) exposure insignificant so you rely on flash to freeze motion.

The best trick you can learn is how to do a levels adjustment to get the contrast and colour balance right. This tutorial explains the concept:

Using Levels in Photoshop to Image Correct Color and Contrast

just bringing in the black/white points on each channel is 90% of what you need to do it gets the colour balance and contrast where they should be quickly and easily.
 
Thanks Chris. I was just using two video lights for all shots. I don't have a strobe yet. It seemed to work pretty well on the night dive, but not as well during the day. Some of the shots in dark areas, like the grouper above, worked pretty well during the day. I had iso set to 400 since I don't have strobe, and it seemed to work ok. I am mostly guessing though, so thanks for the tips.
 
So I am by now means an expert in underwater photography, I have really just started taking my camera underwater, but I do know topside photography fairly well. So, take what I say under that frame. There are actually two different things here. First is getting white balance, second is getting exposure.

First exposure since it is the hard one.

Modern day cameras are really good at computing and guessing what the settings should be, this is Auto or Program mode, the problem is that light underwater works so different than above water that underwater the camera isn't as good at figuring out. Unless you are in manual mode the camera is taking the variable you decide (say appeture) and then deciding all the other variables based on this (adjusting ISO and Shutter Speed) to get what it thinks should be a correctly exposed photograph. Now again in general a camera is pretty good at figuring this out, but there are times when this doesn't work. (A classic example of this above water is snow, where the camera underexposes and the snow looks grey).

So unless you are shooting in manual mode you are not likely to get consistently exposed images, in some sense you are correcting for this by using video lights and providing light up close that the camera is able to use to get a good exposure. But what you will want to do if shooting in appeture priority mode or shutter priority mode is use exposure compensation to adjust for the correct exposure to get the blue water the way you want. Or even better shoot in manual mode.

You can particularly see the difficulty here in the photo of the diver set against the sun. The highlights (bright area) of the sun is a bit washed out and the shadows (dark area at bottom) aren't clear. If it were me, I would actually stop down the camera and underexpose this shot (either in manual mode with a smaller appeture or exposure compensate for lower) and then in post bring up the shadows and add in contrast.

White Balance:

Easy. Shoot in raw, set the white balance in post. The disadvantage of this is the jpgs the camera records (the files I assume you uploaded here) are probably not white balanced, but don't worry about it, get the RAWs into a photo editor, set the white balance and the colors will come out. The real problem comes with lights that have one temperature and the the ambient light which will be another.

Two resources that should really help:
Get Martin Edge's Underwater photography.

And second try out this tool which will help learn how to adjust setting to get exposure you want:
Get the Perfect Shot with Canon
 
Thanks Dave. I used the RAW file and edited in Lightroom. I adjusted the white balance and other adjusters to get what seemed like the best looking result. I then saved as jpeg and uploaded here. I will look at your links. Thanks for the time and detailed reply. J
 
Hmm, my bad I assumed these were the unprocessed .jpgs of the RAWs. The white balance in the ones where your lights weren't lighting up the subject def. seems off to me. If you want to send me a link to the RAW of the Grouper and the SCUBA diver I can take a look and tell you what I think.
 
A few more shots after Lightroom
 

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I'm old enough to have started my photography with film. And manual only cameras. When I got my first digital compact, I used A mode a lot, but after understanding the effect of sensor size on DOF and diffraction, I quit worrying and just put my compact in P mode. The DOF of a small sensor is pretty huge, and diffraction usually sets in around f/2.8 anyway.

Now, if I'm using a dSLR or a micro-4/3, I really prefer shooting in A or M mode. Because on those sensor sizes, the chosen aperture really makes a difference.
 
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