Hey SCUBA gear heads - best regulator for under $1,000 = ?

[cerich]

I'll just tear out that page of notes I took in my HOG reg service class.

please do, it's wrong.

Pistons first stages tend to corrode easier because water will surround the spring and piston if not fully filled for a environmental kit. That said, piston regs at the seat and piston interface in my experience historically hold a better seat than diaphragm regs. That is changing with better material used in HP seats for diaphragm regs.

the spring on a piston reg can lose it strength over time, unless defective however we are talking ears and thousands of dives. During which the reg will get serviced and adjusted anyhow and if the spring cant meet spec changed out

 

[Diving Dubai]

@sarahlee

I'm late to this thread, and glad I missed the usual OT excitement.

My primary regs are the Aqualung Supreme (a variant of the Legend) And I do love them, they're great breathers, have the benefit of the Auto closure device (ADC) which prevents any moisture getting into them when off the cylinder. However I believe in the US due to your silly MSRP they are a $1200 reg. Fear not!

When Aqualung revamped their range, the Legend basically took on the features on my Supreme's I have a couple of Legends and like them just fine, no complaints, I believe they fall well within the $1000

I had the chance to try the Deep Six regs for a few dives. I "tested" them against my SL supreme's, and much preferred my regs. That said, some of the bits I didn't like were personal preferences, and given the deep 6 were 50% cheaper then my AL, I couldn't hand on heart say the Al were twice as good, so can recommend them. I think they are $600 for a full single tank set up, and you get a service kit, nice pelican box and I understand a few bits of swag thrown in for free)

Lastly I've brought a set of Apex XTX 50. I wanted a set for teaching with in the pool and basic open water dives rather than use my expensive gear. However I'm really impressed with them and have great breathing and are almost as nice as my AL (they don't have the ACD however)

My brands you can't self service - or can't get the parts. That doesn't personally bother me though. More important to me is that I travel a lot on vacation and know there would be an AL/Apex dealer in every territory should the worst happen.

Just my 2c though

 

[scubafanatic]

This. I have never owned piston regs, so bear in mind I am just repeating what I've been told here. As it was explained to me, a piston reg is like a Ferrari--when it's tuned, its performance can't be beat, but it tends to go out of tune quickly--whereas a diaphragm reg is a less finicky workhorse like a classic Honda or Toyota.

As I have never owned or breathed a piston reg, I can't speak to whether I would notice the difference. I, too, have been led to believe I wouldn't notice a difference on a typical 60-100 foot dive. But if so-called work-of-breathing really is important to a prospective buyer, I would recommend trying out various regs and seeing for yourself if you can tell the difference. Don't do as I did and just make a decision based on what people repeat on the Internet!

I'd heard the typical piston reg is like a MiG29 whereas the typical diaphragm reg is like a F-16.

 

[scubafanatic]

please do, it's wrong.

Pistons first stages tend to corrode easier because water will surround the spring and piston if not fully filled for a environmental kit. That said, piston regs at the seat and piston interface in my experience historically hold a better seat than diaphragm regs. That is changing with better material used in HP seats for diaphragm regs.

the spring on a piston reg can lose it strength over time, unless defective however we are talking ears and thousands of dives. During which the reg will get serviced and adjusted anyhow and if the spring cant meet spec changed out

I've actually been told by the reg tech of my local Atomic dealer that the 'enviro' kit actually can increase corrosion, the christolube gets water mixed in and you get a grease-water goo that traps water, doesn't dry out, and provides a nice, wet environment for water (especially salt water) to stay in long-term contact with metal springs/pistons/etc. for sustained corrosion.

 

[cerich]

I've actually been told by the reg tech of my local Atomic dealer that the 'enviro' kit actually can increase corrosion, the christolube gets water mixed in and you get a grease-water goo that traps water, doesn't dry out, and provides a nice, wet environment for water (especially salt water) to stay in long-term contact with metal springs/pistons/etc. for sustained corrosion.

If the ambient chamber isn't fully filled..I guess so. If he works at a atomic dealer and is seeing that I would be inclined to believe him

 

[scubafanatic]

If the ambient chamber isn't fully filled..I guess so. If he works at a atomic dealer and is seeing that I would be inclined to believe him

Atomic's 'rubber band' christolube containment system is pretty old-fashioned and commonly weeps/seeps christolube out, and can allow water in as well.

 

[BoltSnap]

Atomic's 'rubber band' christolube containment system is pretty old-fashioned and commonly weeps/seeps christolube out, and can allow water in as well.

I have NEVER seen this with ALL of the Atomic regulators I have used, sold, serviced since circa 1998 and continue to us in my dive school. I use strictly sealed first stage of the atomic regulators and this never happened. In fact, in the European market and our market, EMEA region, only the sealed versions are sold here.

Just like any other brand, some technicians aren't vigilant in understanding and following the mfg's service instructions or use the proper tools properly, they mess up the service, even the least complicated parts. Any reasonably trained service technician will know how to service the Atomic very SIMPLE first stages and how to seal it properly, it doesn't require a rocket scientist to do nor is it a brain surgery. One of my Atomic regulators, sealed B2, hasn't been serviced since circa 2012 and it is working like new without any issues at all (I just haven't gotten around to sending it for service yet).

I just can't believe the BS and misinformation and total lack of honesty and understanding in many posts here. I buy and use and continue to use Atomic regulators for their most natural breathing and performance in addition to their incredible reliability and resiliency. No other regulator brand has these Atomic regulator features or comes close in reliability in our experience except SP. If were going to be stuck on an Island, I'd want an Atomic regulator with me, preferably the sealed version (I wouldn't mind a SP regulator either). I would not want any other brand.

(I am not a retailer or associated with Atomic or SP in anyway. I buy my regulators from dealers and/or individuals.)

 

[buddhasummer]

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A ScubaBoard Staff Message...

Update:

1) Two side bars were split into new threads:

Double hose thread - split from Hey SCUBA gear heads - best regulator for under $1000
and
On rinsing regulators - split from Hey SCUBA gear heads - best regulator for under $1,000 = ?

2) some off topic posts were removed

What remains seems to be related to the question posed by the OP. Please try to keep things on topic.

3) the thread is open again.

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If "you guys" are going to start modding threads that go off on different tangents you are going to be very busy, more do than don't. I'm a little suorised this was modded. Oops off topic...

 

[joe10540]

At the risk of starting a $#!£ storm how about this? <font color=
Overbalanced first and second stage for $99 brand new!

 

[Diver0001]

i really enjoyed reading those "off topic" posts

Just to be clear, you still can. I didn't delete them. They were split into their own topics in order to keep this thread more focused on the question you asked.

R..