identify Bauer compressor and help?

[kdupreez]

Ok - sorry for all the freegin calculations.. but I measured and re-measured the "Outside" of the pulley, since thats what the compressor flywheel measurement of 17.75" is based on.. and since these numbers didnt make sense.. I used the inside diameters.. but that still didnt make sense..

So, here is my exact numbers of the CURRENT motor and Pulley thats on the compressor.. PLEASE tell me if I am screwing the pooch somewhere..

Motor Pulley Outside Diameter: 7.75"

Compressor Flywheel Outside Diamer: 17.75"

Motor Speed: 3515 RPM (3 phase, 5HP)

Soooo... this means the current RPM's on the Compressor should be:

(7.75 / 17.75) * 3515 = 1535 RPM

Can that be right?? this should be waay too high for a Mariner block?

I'm thinking of throwing a Leeson single phase 5HP motor running at 3450 RPM in there..

If I use the exact same pulley the single phase motor will produce this rpm on the compressor side:

(7.75 / 17.75) * 3450 = 1506 RPM

To my understanding this is still waay too high and will probably over draw the motor..

I'm guessing here, but to drop the RPM's down to a reasonable 1100, I would have to drop the pulley down to a 6.0"

(6.0 / 17.75)* 3450 = 1166 RPM

Any comments/Advice/concerns ??

 

[CraigAClark]

My best guess is that someone calculated for 1300 rpm on the compressor to operate on 50 Hz. Some 60 Hz motors, especially 3 phase, can operate on 50 Hz. But there is a sacrifice of approximately 1/6 on hp and motor rpm. When you run the numbers, you get a motor rpm of 2929, which gives you a pulley size of 7.78. Most likely they would of settled on the 7.75. However, I doubt that the motor would be able to turn the compressor at that speed without over amping.

Craig

 

[kdupreez]

Hey Craig,

Thanks a lot for all the info, you are this bottomless well of knowledge my firend!

Now If I may, I would like to ask you a few questions on this Mariner unit to help understand it better.

I'm about to order the motor and spent the day today cleaning the unit and have the following questions before powering it up.

The Oil Demister/Exhauster: the oil exhauster that feeds from the first stage is pretty dirty and sticky inside, is this an issue? and how can i clean the metal mesh in the demister body and is it needed?

Lubrication system: How will I know its working? By cranking the flywheel? there is no "window" anywhere that I could find.. Good idea to fit an oil pressure gauge permanently on the oil pressure test plug?

Oil: I have no clue what oil the previous owner used, what should I switch to? I'd prefer to replace the oil with a synthetic, Can I just drain and switch?

Seperator/Filter: When should the seperators filters be cleaned replaced? and where does one buy these?

Auto Drain:
Can you verify my thoughts on how the aftermarket 2 x Aqua Environment Unloader valves work based on the pictures below??

In this case the inter stage pressure goes through a fixed regulator (1) and through a solenoid into a block (3) that feeds the unloader valves (4 & 5), so as the internal pressure builds up, the drains (6) remain open and when the interstage pressure is sufficient, the valves are pressurized closes the drains and the backfill pressure from the filters then feeds through the T (connected to valve on the right) into another line (7) going to a pressure activated switch.. (below)

This Switch (8) (Whats the gauge for btw??? and what will the pressure be??), this switch triggers a relay/timer in my electric box that after 15-20 minutes closes the feeding pressure through the solenoid (9) and drains open up for a few minutes. The solenoid closes back up and the process starts over again??

Thanks for the info and advice!!

Cheers!! :cool2:

 

[aikiguy]

I have a Bauer Jr II on my boat.

I had a huge store of synthetic oil that came with the compressor. I was fat and happy with it until someone "borrowed" the 7 gallons of oil that I had.

Unfortunately I did not write down the brand or product number for the oil.

Any input on where and what to get oil for at a realistic price would be appreciated. (Bauer is not a realistic price...)

Thanks,
Guy

 

[IyaDiver]

Kdu,

You will need Craig evaluation on the questions I have in mind, he is the Bauer expert.
I am worried about the way the auto water drain is rigged.

01. Both auto drain #4 & #5 is connected to the manifold block #3. I am guessing it is a pneumatic powered auto drain by your description and by the look of it. But what scares me here is that #4 is connected to water separator which is a much lower pressure service than the filter housing ( highest service pressure ) which is connected to #5 and both share airway at #3 manifold block.

What if these pneumatic auto drains actuator developed a faulty seal on high pressure side and air rush to low pressure side and towards the block #3 and into the water separator, while its safety valve of water separator happened to jammed up ? High pressure air could also flow to #1 and to where-ever that #1 is connected to.

In the typical electric type auto drain, its simple, no sharing of high pressure circuit with low pressure one.


02. Item #8 is probably auto shut down when pressure goes too high. That pressure gauge there is a good thing to tell you what pressure the PMV* ( pressure maintaining valv) is set at, while the final safety pressure is not reached yet and will tell you the actual trigger pressure setting of that item #8 when the motor got shut down by it.
* PMV is where the filler hose/whip is connected to, right side most bottom of filter housing.


03. If you are saying that item #2 & #9 is connected to a timer in the electric box, I do not understand the logic of this compressor auto drain set-up and would love to learn of it.

Why would one use a mean of electrical trigger to command an opening of an auto drain but the auto drain mechanism is using pneumatic power to conduct the work of opening and closing a valve ? Two auto drain actuators #4 & #5, plus a manifold block #3 and regulator # 1 ....is it cheaper than 2 of common electrical auto drain and worth the extra hassle ? Also this set up does not allow draining specific to water separator only, where most water vapor is juiced out. The filter housing is a combo filter and water separator but it is not as wet as the first water separator.

You better set the timer so very short opening duration as such pressure drop is not too much but opening frequency maybe higher or else your filter housing life will greatly be shortened. I recall it is approx 89,000 pressure cycles for that P21 ( P Zero ) from new.


04. I can't see where the item #1 regulator is hooked up to, but as far as I know, pneumatic does not like wet air, it wants dry air. Unless that regulator is connected to a supply downstream of a processed air ( after filter housing ), all other air source in that compressor is of extreme humidity, especially the one before the 1st water separator.


Interesting subject this compressor of yours, will need Craig insight on this.


Regards,
IYA

 

[Compressor Coach]

Craig is correct...Mariner-H.

For full output, motor should be 7.5hp. The auto drain is a funky configuration using pilot valves made by Aqua Environment...not the best arrangement but it works.

Parts available from L-Factor NEW PARTS div. Look for us at compressor-parts.com

 

[CraigAClark]

Hey Craig,

Thanks a lot for all the info, you are this bottomless well of knowledge my firend!

Now If I may, I would like to ask you a few questions on this Mariner unit to help understand it better.

I'm about to order the motor and spent the day today cleaning the unit and have the following questions before powering it up.

The Oil Demister/Exhauster: the oil exhauster that feeds from the first stage is pretty dirty and sticky inside, is this an issue? and how can i clean the metal mesh in the demister body and is it needed?

That is a tricky one as the mesh isn't removable. BTW, that is actually the crank-case breather. Normally, I would clean with mineral spirits, but it is going to get into the crank-case and will have to be allowed to drain and dry out. During a rebuild this is a normal process as all reusable parts will be cleaned this way and allowed to dry.

Lubrication system: How will I know its working? By cranking the flywheel? there is no "window" anywhere that I could find.. Good idea to fit an oil pressure gauge permanently on the oil pressure test plug?

There is an oil sight-glass on the oil pressure regulator, but judging from the crappy paint job, it has been painted over. The only way to be sure if there is pressure and that it is correct for the final air pressure you will be running to (block is good for 5000 psi) is to put an oil pressure gauge on.

Oil: I have no clue what oil the previous owner used, what should I switch to? I'd prefer to replace the oil with a synthetic, Can I just drain and switch?

I would get some Seccolube 500 from L-factor. It is a good synthetic oil. You can kill two birds with one stone by cleaning the mesh screen and changing the oil after. Just change the oil again after about 10 running hours and don't use the air produced during this period.

Seperator/Filter: When should the seperators filters be cleaned replaced? and where does one buy these?

There is only one interstage separator which should be cleaned every 6 months or if it is really bad replace it. You can buy OEM from Bauer or get it for less from L-Factor. Also check the vortex plate in the separator head to make sure it isn't broken.

Auto Drain:
Can you verify my thoughts on how the aftermarket 2 x Aqua Environment Unloader valves work based on the pictures below??

Personally, I would replace that auto-drainas those AE 907's are great for 3-4 scfm, but I would not use them on anything bigger. Somewhere there is a repeat-cycle timer and depending on type, it may allow the compressor to run unloaded for a few seconds at start-up. I think you are confusing the final pressure switch, with the inline gauge, as part of the drain system.

In this case the inter stage pressure goes through a fixed regulator (1) and through a solenoid into a block (3) that feeds the unloader valves (4 & 5), so as the internal pressure builds up, the drains (6) remain open and when the interstage pressure is sufficient, the valves are pressurized closes the drains and the backfill pressure from the filters then feeds through the T (connected to valve on the right) into another line (7) going to a pressure activated switch.. (below)

This Switch (8) (Whats the gauge for btw??? and what will the pressure be??), this switch triggers a relay/timer in my electric box that after 15-20 minutes closes the feeding pressure through the solenoid (9) and drains open up for a few minutes. The solenoid closes back up and the process starts over again??

Thanks for the info and advice!!

Cheers!! :cool2:

Craig

 

[kdupreez]

Thanks a bunch for the info!! I ordered a single phase 7.5HP Leeson motor @ 3450 RPM's to run the compressor and should have it in the next week or so.. I'll also order the proper pulley's as noted to get the RPM's on the compressor to between 1200-1300

And I will clean out the crank case breather mesh after draining the oil and let it sit to dry for a while.. and of course replace the oil, run 10 hours and replace again..

BTW - I just checked and it seemed the guy applying the crappy paint (not sure why you want to paint it in the first place??) actually broke the oil regulator's sight glass assembly and instead of replacing the parts, he cut the oil level check union part in half and just hard-wired the oil return tube into the regulator.. really bizarre!! I ordered the replacement parts and will be installing a new glass window assembly..( Thanks to www.compressor-parts.com !!)

The oil level check union part was butchered like below ?:shocked2:

And we have a final product replacing the oil level check assembly

Now a question - When fitting the oil pressure gauge - What should the pressure be?? I could not find it in the service manual at all ?? it just says you can put a pressure gauge on the orifice after removing the oil pressure test port plug, but nothing about what the actual pressure should be ??

Oh yah, I found the timer/relay thats part of the drain system, and you are right, its got nothing to do with that pressure switch+gauge piece..

Also, whats the purpose of this Barksdale final pressure switch + Gauge in my previous post?? (Number 8) just to monitor the backfill from the PMV and incase it goes over limits shutdown the motor???

THANK YOU again!! this has been extremely helpful

 

[Compressor Coach]

OIL PSI: 750-850psi. We offer a gauge that should screw directly into that side port of the oil reg. It's one of our mini-gauges New Parts - Hi-Psi Compressor Parts

 

[CraigAClark]

Thanks a bunch for the info!! I ordered a single phase 7.5HP Leeson motor @ 3450 RPM's to run the compressor and should have it in the next week or so.. I'll also order the proper pulley's as noted to get the RPM's on the compressor to between 1200-1300

And I will clean out the crank case breather mesh after draining the oil and let it sit to dry for a while.. and of course replace the oil, run 10 hours and replace again..

BTW - I just checked and it seemed the guy applying the crappy paint (not sure why you want to paint it in the first place??) actually broke the oil regulator's sight glass assembly and instead of replacing the parts, he cut the oil level check union part in half and just hard-wired the oil return tube into the regulator.. really bizarre!! I ordered the replacement parts and will be installing a new glass window assembly..( Thanks to New Parts - Hi-Psi Compressor Parts !!)

The oil level check union part was butchered like below ?:shocked2:

And we have a final product replacing the oil level check assembly

Now a question - When fitting the oil pressure gauge - What should the pressure be?? I could not find it in the service manual at all ?? it just says you can put a pressure gauge on the orifice after removing the oil pressure test port plug, but nothing about what the actual pressure should be ??

Oh yah, I found the timer/relay thats part of the drain system, and you are right, its got nothing to do with that pressure switch+gauge piece..

Also, whats the purpose of this Barksdale final pressure switch + Gauge in my previous post?? (Number 8) just to monitor the backfill from the PMV and incase it goes over limits shutdown the motor???

THANK YOU again!! this has been extremely helpful

I noticed that the sight-glass "replacement part" seems to have pipe thread and teflon tape to seal. The original part had straight thread with a gasket seal. If the threads are buggered, you may have a problem if you try to put an original part in place.

The pressure switch is there to shut the machine off at your final desired pressure. You then set the final safety (on top of the filter tower) 100 to 200 psi higher incase the switch fails to shut the unit off, or if you have a three position selector switch with a "Manual" position.

Craig