indonesia vs. malaysia

[scren]

hi divers--
i am planning a 2-wk trip for 3 of us in sept. '04 and would like some input on the destination. we are newly certified divers and have been hoping to explore a variety of diving sites, which is why both indonesia and malaysia sound great. (plus we are interested in exploring the cultures, wildlife, beaches, food, etc). i have gotten mixed info about safety in both of these places, and would appreciate input from anyone with knowledge of the areas, especially if you have been there recently. while we are adventurous new yorkers who are accustomed to living on the edge, we'd like to avoid terrorists, kidnappings and bombings, if possible! i know there is no guarantee on this, i just want to make an educated decision.

aside from the safety issue, i would also love input on the dive sites, operators, and accomodations (if that's not asking too much!) it is very hard to make a decision, since it all looks fantastic. we hope to spend 1/2 the trip diving, 1/2 exploring by land (especially interesting animals!). i've heard pro-sipadan, anti-sipadan, pro-lankayan, etc, etc.

i appreciate any input! thanks for your help.

 

[Zippsy]

To avoid mosquitoes, stay in an air-conditioned apartment in New York during the dead of winter. Other than that, you should not have any problem in someplace like Sipadan / Mabul or Minado / Lembeh. Both offer world class diving with an outstanding combination of small critters as well as the large sharks / turtles / huge schools of fish. Both areas are pretty safe and I would not be worried either getting there or staying there. A Sipadan trip could easily be done along with land excursions to places like Mount Kinabalu or treks around the Mulu Caves. If you go to Minado, I think you may prefer to also stay to the more established places like Bali. If you go there, spend only a day or two down in the touristy south - go up north for an experience of a lifetime. I'm assuming that you have not travelled much in the region so now might not be the best time for someone new here to be roaming around all the other beautiful places in Indonesia. It's truly a fascinating and magical place but they need to sort out some problems before I start recommending travel to other areas there. A final note, bring some bug repellent or quinine. The mossies aren't bad here but they ARE here!

 

[scren]

To avoid mosquitoes, stay in an air-conditioned apartment in New York during the dead of winter.

undefinedtouche'. you are right, i haven't travelled in se asia at all, but i have travelled extensively throughout latin america, and i always seem to be the one to encounter mosquitoes when no one else does! i took my mosquito plea out because it is not really the info i am looking for. it sounds like you think both malaysia & indonesia are comparably fantastic, which is what i keep reading everywhere else. any dive companies you prefer? i read about a lot of great-sounding companies/places to stay in both areas, and it is hard to choose. thanks for your input, though!

 

[frogfish]

the best way to avoid mosquitoes while diving in Asia is to go on a liveaboard...

 

[pisces]

HAHA.... Singaporeans are a rather sarcastic lot, eh?

I was waiting to see the answer to this one.... Hey, I'm just a soft, wimpy american wanting to see pretty things without getting taken hostage....

Thanks for sharing!

To avoid mosquitoes, stay in an air-conditioned apartment in New York during the dead of winter. Other than that, you should not have any problem in someplace like Sipadan / Mabul or Minado / Lembeh. Both offer world class diving with an outstanding combination of small critters as well as the large sharks / turtles / huge schools of fish. Both areas are pretty safe and I would not be worried either getting there or staying there. A Sipadan trip could easily be done along with land excursions to places like Mount Kinabalu or treks around the Mulu Caves. If you go to Minado, I think you may prefer to also stay to the more established places like Bali. If you go there, spend only a day or two down in the touristy south - go up north for an experience of a lifetime. I'm assuming that you have not travelled much in the region so now might not be the best time for someone new here to be roaming around all the other beautiful places in Indonesia. It's truly a fascinating and magical place but they need to sort out some problems before I start recommending travel to other areas there. A final note, bring some bug repellent or quinine. The mossies aren't bad here but they ARE here!

 

[Zippsy]

pisces - I learned to be sarcastic in Baltimore. I'm a Yank who just happens to be hiding in Asia.

Scren - No offense on the mossie things. Also, the comment about being new to the region was just a general warning about the fact that it's hard to tell now which parts of Indonesia are bad to be roaming the streets. Since I've been there often and can speak the language (although poorly), I'd trust myself to go a few more places than I would send a friend.

In Sipadan / Mabul / Kapalai, I recommend Borneo Divers (http://www.borneodivers.info/homeframe.html). It would be hard to go wrong with any of the resorts there and everyone will have their own favorite.

In Manado, I kind of like the idea of living on Bunaken itself. While in Lembeh, I stayed at Kungkungan Bay Resort (http://www.kungkungan.com/kbrmainpage.html). It's been a while since I have been there though and KBR was the only operator in town when I was there. I have not heard enough about the new shops on Lembeh Island but I believe it would be tough to find bad dive ops at these places as well.

 

[pisces]

Baltimore..., eh? I lived in DC for many many years but never dared to venture into Baltimore.... Gotta be tough to make it out of there!

pisces - I learned to be sarcastic in Baltimore. I'm a Yank who just happens to be hiding in Asia.

 

[scubashooter]

There are many places in Indonesia that are very good in Sept.
From land: Bali itself is quite nice.As is the southern sites of Lombok.
In other areas, you can do the wonderful Sangalaki, which I recommend over Sipadan(which btw has no big sharks, just white tips on the reef and the scalloped hammerheads deep down occasionally) Then you can hit the forests of Kalimantan.
If you do Sulawesi, stay out of central region for now. Not safe at all. Northern Sulawesi is relatively safe. Lembeh is not to be missed by any macrofanatic. Manado is very safe. The 2 resorts at Lembeh are the Lembeh Resort (more modern furnished, nitrox but in a small recess on the windless side of the island so a/c is needed and available, better house reef, CHEAPER!) and Kungkungan Bay Resort (older(but with new rooms), better food and under new management with Eco Divers from Tasik Ria). Been to both.
In other areas of Indo, with liveaboards you have the "newly" discovered Papua Barat(Irian Jaya). Wonderful coral life (the best in the world imho) but sharks are fished out. Still the best coral life anywhere.The Banda sea(ambon, alor, flores) have great dive sites all around the area. Boats: Pindito, Pelagian, Shakti I've used.
As is the Komodo area (Boats: Evening Star, Kararu, Adventure Komodo (soon)) which is also great diving. The kararu doesn't do Taman Kechil which is one of my favorite sites in the Komodo area.
In malaysia, Sipadan I'd personally pass on (but if you've never been around, it's very good) but I'd definitely go to Mabul/Kapalai for the macro. Why you hear the negative sayings about Sipadan is because the coral has suffered in the last few years due to overdevelopment on the island, too many damned turtles and the big schools of fish like cudas and jacks from say 1990 are not seen all that often. You still see smaller schools regularly but the 000+ schools are a memory for many. Lankayan is nice but not Mabul. That whaleshark nonsense is more luck than usual occurrence.Same as Mataking. Layang Layang is nice but not a must see. There is definitely more staged touristy things to do in Sabah than say Lombok, Kalimantan and Sulawesi. The better diving is definitely in Indonesia and it's wise to do it now because I doubt it will be there in the next 10 years the way things are going. Feel free to msg me if you have questions

 

[Zippsy]

SS, I don't agree about Sipadan but that's o.k. I think you're comparing to how it was 14 years ago and I'm comparing it to diving someple like the Caribbean where I assume scren has been. If your whale shark comment was in reply to me, I hope I didn't give anyone the impression that you'd have much of a chance to see them anywhere near there. However, I definitely swam in the midst of several thousand jacks in Sipadan when I was there last year. I also saw enough turtles to make them almost boring. The short trip between there and Mabul / Kapalai has got to make it the best small / big critter combination available IMHO.

I'm curious about the Banda Sea though. I understood that places like Ambon were definitely a no-go area now. They still have active troubles there don't they? I'm not sure I'd go there myself much less send an American who is new to the region. Having said that, the Banda Sea is an incredible place to go and live in history itself - as soon as the chance of "becoming history" is lessened!

 

[frogfish]

SS, I also disagree re. Sipadan - Was there last week and in my opinion it is still fantastic diving (I rank it way above Bunaken).

I do agree on most of your other comments but would also add Wakatobi to the list of Indonesia must-dos. Personally, top of my list would be Komodo.