Is This a Good Buy?

[duckbill]

Here is the aftermarket secondary filter and fill whip I attach to the 130R1500 during use (Note that I keep the inlet hose plugged to prevent unnecessary atmospheric moisture from entering the system when off season or not in use). I remember seeing that your setup came with a secondary filter and fill whip, which, along with the 130R1500 itself, were attached to a secondary base, if I remember correctly.

The filter housing itself has a condensation drain at its bottom, but the separator on the 130R1500 is so efficient (when a proper back pressure valve is used) that the most I ever get from the secondary filter when opening the drain valve is maybe a one second burst of light mist, even when the filter housing was sitting in cold water while operating.

Inside the filter housing is an old Bauer filter cartridge which is refillable. This cartridge holds about 1/2 shot of activated carbon (activated charcoal) and one shot of Lawrence Factor Vaporshell 13X molecular sieve, these media being separted by and sandwiched between discs made of polyester filter sheet.

The media change frequency for the size of my setup was recommended to be every 1600-2000 cubic feet of air flow. I have never reached that amount in a year, so I change it annually just to be safe.

Filter housing disassembled, showing refillable filter cartridge:

Open end of refillable cartridge:

Last, but CERTAINLY NOT LEAST (It is one of the most important features necessary for efficient filtering) is a BACK PRESSURE VALVE. The separator and dessicant work most efficiently when under pressure. So, if no back pressure valve is in the system behind the filtration, the first half or so of your fill of an empty tank will be inefficiently filtered. The 130R1500 itself has no back pressure valve, and even if it did it would not help the efficiency of the secondary filtration.

My secondary filter has a built-in pack pressure valve. It is adjustable via a screw on the top of the housing:

I have mine set to 1500 psi, but was told by a man at Lawrence Factor that it would be better to set at 1700-2000 psi. The idea is that the higher, the better, but you don't really want your compressor working against 3000 psi all of the time. So, the lowest setting necessary for acceptable efficiency will help save your compressor from unnecessary wear while giving good, dry fills.

 

[duckbill]

New (to me) information of 13X molecular sieve, FWIW to those to whom this may be useful:

In addition, upon having done a web search to refresh my memory for the name of the filter dessicant media (13X), I ran across articles mentioning it's excellent dessicant properties. Well and good, but I was told by a reputable source that the 13X only absorbs water when under pressure. Now I'm reading that it absorbs water just fine at ambient pressure. Oh, great, so my container of 13X may have long ago expired? Captain? Anyone?

I called Lawrence Factor, the manufacturer or distributor of the 13X molucular sieve I have been using, to ask about shelf life vs. the factory packaging vs. alternate packaging, and adsorbtion of moisture at ambient pressure vs. while under pressure.

Here is what I found out:

1) 13X adsorbs more water molecules at higher pressures. IOW, even if the 13X is saturated at ambient pressure, it will adsorb more when subjected to higher pressures.

2) 13X would better be stored in a metal container with an o-ring seal than in the factory container which is slightly permeable.

3) And, most useful, 13X can be given a quick test for "freshness".
An exothermic reaction takes place when Vaporshell 13X is adsorbing water.
Go outside where you can drop the Vaporshell in a hurry, and have some cool water running from a hose bib nearby.
Place a small spoonful of Vaporshell in the palm of your hand (might begin to feel warm just from the moisture in your skin).
Pour half a teaspoon of water on the Vaporshell while holding it away from your face (not that it will explode or anything).
If it gets hot in a hurry it is still good.
Be careful, it can burn your hand, hence the recommendation to have cool, running water at hand.

I was concerned about the freshness of my four year old 13X I had stored in the factory container within a heavy ziplock bag in the garage. I performed the above test and virtually burned my hand! I'm looking forward to also performing this quick test on the media I remove from my filter cartridge next year to see how much "life" is actually still left in it.

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One other thing to remember on these low output compressors is to make sure all of the fittings are well sealed. Any small leak at a fitting can severely diminish the efficiency. You can test with soapy water, but NEVER apply it while the compressor is hot. Apply small amounts to each fitting juncture while the compressor is still running cold right after you turn it on. I hesitate to even recommend this, as it could be very easy to fracture metal and ruin your compressor, even if done "right". Needless to say, do so at your own risk!

JamesBon92007, now that you have a compressor you may wonder how you ever lived without one before. OTOH, they can be a real headache when not working right. We may be two of only a handful still using this model compressor, but I hope this information proves beneficial to you and anyone else who can use it. Have fun with it.

 

[John C. Ratliff]

Duckbill,

I don't know much about the compressors, but I did look up the Material Safety Data Sheet on the chemical 13X Molecular Sieve from Lawrence Factor. You can get it from here:

http://www.lawrence-factor.com/Library/MSDS_Molsiv13X.pdf

I work as an industrial hygienist, and would not recommend the method of putting this chemical onto your palm and putting water on it. It contains a lot of sodium oxide, which when mixed with water probably turns to sodium hydroxide, a very basic solution. The burns you got were probably a combination of thermal and caustic burns, and if this stuff gets into your eyes you only have about ten seconds to get into an eyewash before you could get permanent eye damage.

John (SeaRat)

 

[duckbill]

Duckbill,

I don't know much about the compressors, but I did look up the Material Safety Data Sheet on the chemical 13X Molecular Sieve from Lawrence Factor. You can get it from here:

http://www.lawrence-factor.com/Library/MSDS_Molsiv13X.pdf

I work as an industrial hygienist, and would not recommend the method of putting this chemical onto your palm and putting water on it. It contains a lot of sodium oxide, which when mixed with water probably turns to sodium hydroxide, a very basic solution. The burns you got were probably a combination of thermal and caustic burns, and if this stuff gets into your eyes you only have about ten seconds to get into an eyewash before you could get permanent eye damage.

John (SeaRat)

Yes, I suppose I really should add more caveats these days. I assumed common sense would prevail in the vintage forum. When I performed the test I was cognizant enough to do it near a running water spigot and hold it away from my face. If the 13x is good there's no way you'd be able to hold it long enough to get a caustic burn. Thanks, I'll make some additions to my post.

 

[John C. Ratliff]

Yes, I suppose I really should add more caveats these days. I assumed common sense would prevail in the vintage forum. When I performed the test I was cognizant enough to do it near a running water spigot and hold it away from my face. If the 13x is good there's no way you'd be able to hold it long enough to get a caustic burn. Thanks, I'll make some additions to my post.

Duckbill, I learned a long, long time ago not to use my own senses to test chemicals:

Humor in the Air

You might put a thermometer on this and get a reading, which would make it perhaps a safer method of testing. Also, please see the "Caution" on the last page of the MSDS, relating to contaminants.

Enjoy,

SeaRat

 

[captain]

This is a good storage container for 13X or activated carbon.

Storage Containers, Store Coffee & Tea in amazing airtight Containers!

 

[duckbill]

Thankyou, Captain. I lost my wallet on vacation, but once I get everything straightened out I may just order one of those. Alternately, I was looking at metal water bottles, but the ones I've seen so far look too small.

Duckbill, I learned a long, long time ago not to use my own senses to test chemicals:

Humor in the Air

That's hilarious, John (sorry it was at your expense though). Thanks for sharing that. The Marine Corp had the CH-53 Sea Stallion, similar to your HH-53, and if they had a urinal on board too, I never knew it. Learn something new every day.

 

[JamesBon92007]

Thanks Duckbill for ALL of that information! And everything from everyone else too. I'll C&P this whole thread and save it in a safe place (like on paper ).

Yes, mine is attached to an additional base (wood) to accommodate the filter which is held by an ABS pipe and cap (cap attached to base). The filling wand had the usual cap to prevent anything from getting inside when not in use. I will check the pre-filter and use your fuel filter design to make a new one. I didn't find out yet if my filter has the back pressure valve. I will add the pics here and see if anyone can identify one on my filter. I think it has one. I don't see what other purpose the fitting on the top could serve.

 

[duckbill]

I didn't find out yet if my filter has the back pressure valve. I will add the pics here and see if anyone can identify one on my filter. I think it has one. I don't see what other purpose the fitting on the top could serve.View attachment 100291View attachment 100292View attachment 100293

It looks different than mine, but it sure seems to be one to me.

You can check your system for back pressure easily enough. Close all of the drain valves and fully open the valve on your filler connector with no cylinder attached. Turn on the compressor and watch the compressor's gauge on the separator (not on the filler connector) while your finger is blocking the outlet hole on your filler. If you get a good head of pressure on the gauge before you get any air flow through your filler, you almost certainly have a back pressure valve. You may be able to play with the setting by screwing the screw in or out and checking the back pressure again. The pressure will level off at whatever back pressure you have it set. Shoot for 1700-2000 psi.

Sometimes I have to give my back pressure valve head a rap or two with a screwdriver handle to get it to unstick. If you are getting no back pressure at first, you might want to try rapping it to see if it may be sticking.

Does your filler connector have a pressure valve on it too?

 

[JamesBon92007]

Unfortunately I get air flow as soon as I turn it one. It looks like I need a back pressure valve, and possibly a new filter from what I've read here.

There is no additional gauge on the filler connector or any kind of pressure valve on it, only the On/Off valve that resembles a tank valve. There is a screw between the yoke and On/Off valve where it looks like a gauge or something could be added.