J-valve question

[AfterDark]

Is it doable and acceptable to remove the J-valve lever and safety wire the shaft in the open position?

I don't do any of my own work on scuba gear so I'm clewless about this. Spent 1/2 hour searching but couldn't find anything. Someone must have asked this before, or am I just that dumb? I don't want to try it and wind up walking in the LDS with a bag of parts in the AM. Any help on this?

 

[F106A]

Is it doable and acceptable to remove the J-valve lever and safety wire the shaft in the open position?

FWIW: I was given a steel 65 about 12 years ago. It had a bad J-valve. Replaced it, safety wired the valve with .047 and have gone through three hydro's and 10+ VIP's since without any problem, either above or below the surface.

As far as being "clewless"; are you a sailor?

 

[AfterDark]

FWIW: I was given a steel 65 about 12 years ago. It had a bad J-valve. Replaced it, safety wired the valve with .047 and have gone through three hydro's and 10+ VIP's since without any problem, either above or below the surface.

As far as being "clewless"; are you a sailor?

Not really, but I do understand the origin of the phrase, and don't wish to appear clewless about that at least . Did you remove the lever or is that not wise?

 

[Paladin]

If you don't want a J valve, swap it out with a K valve. If you want to keep the J but use it as a K, open the reserve and tape it in position with several wrappings of black electrical tape.

 

[F106A]

Not really, but I do understand the origin of the phrase, and don't wish to appear clewless about that at least . Did you remove the lever or is that not wise?

I removed the the lever from the original "bad" J-valve. I don't know if that is considered "wise" or not, but it was no longer needed. The replacement didn't have one. I suspect you may get a full measure of opinions on the subject from the gurus here at SB.


"Baby sister, I was born game and I intend to go out that way."

 

[duckbill]

Whatever you do now, save the lever and at the next valve service have the shop remove the guts and then replace the lever. That way it still looks like a J-valve but will be open inside. Frankly, I think this is utter sacrilege, but your valve, do what you want. (If your J is a U.S.Divers, send me the guts if you don't want them)

 

[AfterDark]

Whatever you do now, save the lever and at the next valve service have the shop remove the guts and then replace the lever. That way it still looks like a J-valve but will be open inside. Frankly, I think this is utter sacrilege, but your valve, do what you want. (If your J is a U.S.Divers, send me the guts if you don't want them)

Thanks sounds like the best option. One is a USD I'll PM you after I have it done. I'm not so much a vintage diver as I am old enough to have some vintage gear that I like and will continue to use for as long as it lasts.

 

[captain]

I don't know why anyone is concerned about J valves other than because of a lack of knowledge on how they work.

All my tanks have them but I rarely use them, I just leave the lever down and never had an problem doing that.
First unless you are diving doubles with a J manifold I is easy to tell what position the J valve is in by watching your SPG. It will have a much larger pressure swing during inhalation than when it is up than when it is down. Also there usually is a difference in sound during inhalation between when it is on then when it is off.

At the worst all it could do is cut your dive a few minutes short but even that is unlikely to happen if you normally end the dive at or above the J valve kick in pressure of 300 PSI. Be assured one will not abruptly cut off your air supply at anytime.

I would be more concerned about shop monkeys not knowing the lever must be down in order to fill the tank.

 

[Paladin]

Personally, I prefer J valves. But that's just me.

 

[AfterDark]

I've only had J-valves. I'm familiar as to their function although not how it's done mechanically. I didn't even get confused by my Scubapro adjustable J-valve.

As you say monkeys not knowing to position it down when filling. If it is disabled then the monkey factor is no more and its one less thing I need to keep track of while gearing up. I didn't know if removing the lever would have any adverse effects on the valve operation by letting grit or sand in for instance. Sounds to me like I've got a few options. Thanks for the input I usually find your posts enlightening and enjoyable. I like J-valves because the T configuration makes for a dandy carry handle.