Kayak "must haves"

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The rack is the way to go; I have a Thule. It's pretty expensive, though. I think the foam block/strap device is about $50 or so. You need the straps regardless and they don't come with the rack. We used to put Jay's yak on my CR-V using the foam blocks on the rack (they fit on the rack) then strapped it down with the straps that come with the foam blocks.

I am going to ask you to bring a pool noodle that we will cut in half for the trip back from the Keys so that it will rest on my rack without scratching the yak or the rack. Dollar Store next to Publix on Sheridan near me has them for a buck. I also need you to bring line to lash it to the rack.

If you have time to visit me in the next week or so I can show you some stuff that's too hard for me to type out on how I rigged mine. You can start off cheap and minimalist and add stuff as you go.
 
Cheap and minimalist is the way to go!
I will get some foam noodles and have lots of rope here.
 
An Anchor,Trolling Motor and Depth Gauge....? I just put together a Dive Canoe and installed these. It would work on a Tandem Kayak.
 
I got the mushroom anchor... 10 lbs, wonder if it is overkill, not sure about the motor, but the depth gauge would be nice...
 
Paddle- any suggestions?

my only suggestion on the paddle is figure out how you are going to transport it. you'll either need one that breaks down to put inside your car or a place to secure your paddle to your vehicle rack if you it doesn't break down.

My first paddle didn't break down and I could barely get it inside my Honda and forget anyone getting in the back seat with it because I had to fold down the seats. just something to thing about.

Anchor - found an 10lb mushroom anchor last weekend. Is this overkill? What kind of line should I get for it? How long?

10 pounds seems like a little overkill. but I guess in high currents having one that is heavy enough not to drag is appreciated. not sure how well Mushrooms work in the sand though. (I've never left my other boat with a Mushroom anchor unattended).

I'd say you'd want about 10' of light chain on it. maybe a little less. nylon line. Tie a float on the end of it. that way if you loose the end overboard, it'll hopefully be floating and you can just paddle over and pull it up.


PFD - So many on the market.. Heck Wal-Mart has em for $15. Are they worth it? What about chafing under the arms, or how hot/bulkyness?

you can start with a $15 walmart PFD, but you'll just want a better one.

I've got a Perception brand PFD made for kayaking. it has no flotation made in the sides, there is less to rub your arms on. Once I got it, I never wanted to use my cheap PFD's again.


Saftey equipment - I have a signal mirror, whistle, strobe light. Anything else?

cell phone in waterproof box, in case of emergency. a VHF Marine Handheld could be usefull also. you can pic up a water resistant one for fairly cheap. more likely to get other boaters in the area with a VHF in case of an emergency.

also for safety, always "file" a "Float plan" of some sort with a relative or a friend. basically it tells them where you are going, where you are putting in and taking out and what times to expect you back. It's in case you come up missing, they at least know where to start looking.

get flotation bags for your kayak. these are air bags that you blow up and put in void spaces, like in front of your feet or any area that isn't a storage area. if you swamp your boat, it will keep a majority of the water out of it making it more manageable to bail out or swim back to shore. A boat without them fills completely with water typically sinking it "flush" with the waterline. swimming it is impossible when flooded. you can use generic bags or ones made specifically for your boat.

an air horn is great safety item to have also. easy to store in the boat under edge of air bags, etc.


I am looking for some way to carry it on my car. Problem is my lil car doesn't have any kind of roof rack system. I am looking at the foamy things. Heck, I think maybe a pool noodle would work! LOL


You can start out with the foam blocks, but in the end you'll just get pissed off at them and end up scratching your roof. You can never seem to get them tight enough to drive with confidence at highway speeds.

Get a Yakima Rack. You can buy mounts for about any car. You won't be sorry.

I can drive 85-90mph with my Kayak on my Yakima going down the interstate and never have any worries.

installing a "kayak security ring" will allow you to run a rubberized cable through it and lock it to the rack so it's secure while on your car (like at a hotel overnight).

I suggest the NRS (Northwest River Supply) cam buckle tie down straps.
NRS 1" HD Tie-Down Strap

These straps don't EVER losen up, even when driving fast and with wet straps in the rain. they are bullet proof.

There are several other companies that make these, but I've always been concerned the "clones" wouldn't hold or would stretch when wet. so I've stuck with the NRS ones.



but the depth gauge would be nice...

Get a waterproof mapping/charting GPS. that way you can paddle out to a reef, ridge, wreck, etc and know you're on top of it and then see/find its edges with the depth finder. Makes all the difference.
 
Thanks Mike, Explain more on the flotation bags. Do they go inside the kayak or strapped on top somehow? On top seems bulky and leaves little room to maneuver. PeterC mentioned earlier about filling the hull with foam.. is this the same idea? I would think filling the hull with foam would be easier.
 
no, should I?
Also, why the chain on the anchor? Always been curious about that one...
 
Thanks Mike, Explain more on the flotation bags. Do they go inside the kayak or strapped on top somehow? On top seems bulky and leaves little room to maneuver. PeterC mentioned earlier about filling the hull with foam.. is this the same idea? I would think filling the hull with foam would be easier.

They go on the inside of the kayak in areas that are basically voids that would never have anything in them. like the area in front of your pedals.

filling it with foam is an option, but if you ever need to reach the area in front of the pedals for maintenance (like to patch a hole) and its filled with foam, well you're screwed.

also foam weighs more than air does. so it adds weight when you're trying to carry it from the car over soft sand.


this is what the bags look like. Note you can get ones different lengths/widths to fit your boat

pyranha-blue-split-air-bags-l.jpg




Although this is in a canoe, this give you an idea of how they fill up a space to keep water out and add flotation at the same time.

aiguile-bfd-buoyancy-blocks-2.jpg



installing the bags is simple.

1.) buy bag about the size of the space you need to fill or slightly bigger.
2.) Push deflated bag into the space and flatten out as much as possible.
3.) blow up (my mouth) until bag is full. (the bags all have hoses on them so you can easily blow them up
4.) close valve and tuck hose up under bag to get it out of the way.
5.) go paddling


what kayak are you getting? that might help some in what bags you need. If it's a sit on top, and all the hatches are always sealed, you might not need them.
 
no, should I?
Also, why the chain on the anchor? Always been curious about that one...

the chain on the anchor keeps the line from being chaffed by rocks/coral on the bottom. (of course you're not supposed to anchor in coral, but it happens some time.

it also keeps the line laid out a little better on the bottom instead of getting wrapped/kinked around the anchor



BTW... while I was looking for pictures of how to install the bags for you, I ran across this on how to install a fish finder on a kayak (depth finder or GPS would be about the same).

thought it might be usefull to you

http://www.kayaksportfishing.com/equipment/submissions/ted/fishfinder/fishfinder.htm
 
https://xf2.scubaboard.com/community/forums/cave-diving.45/

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