Muck Divers: Wetsuits for Quarry Dives?

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StSomewhere

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I need a wetsuit. Specifically, I need a wetsuit for local quarry dives. (I already have a 3/2 for tropical).

So what are you wearing at your local midwestern quarries? 1 pc. steamer or farmer johns? Hood or hooded vest? 7 mil? 7/6/5? 5 mil steamer + 3 mil shorty? Can I get by with a thinner suit with the Henderson gold core/hyperstretch or Bare wetsuits or is that all just (expensive) hype? My 7 mil one piece rentals seem hugely thick and I need a ton of weight (18 lbs!) to get down with those, which makes good buoyancy tougher. I noticed my instructor used a 7/6/5, that didn't seem quite so bulky.

Generally is there a conversion chart or formula that ties water temps with wetsuit thicknesses?

I'd also really appreciate if you could point out anything I should be considering and/or that I'm overlooking. Thanks!

FWIW, I was interested in dry suits until I priced them. :11: And I thought golf was expensive!!! :wink:
 
Used to use a full 7mm, now I use a drysuit most of the year.
There are a few good entry level drysuits out there, What price range were you looking at?
 
I use a 7mm FJ with a non-built on hood. Works well for me. Your choice in suit really needs to depend on your own temperature tolerences. Personally, I am fine in 42 degree water in my suit, but others may not be.
 
I am not a big fan of wetsuits especially for midwest diving. Water temps below 70 degrees is getting into drysuit territory.

The wetsuit is going to compress with depth so where the water is colder is where the suit gives the least amount of insulation. The wetsuit gets damaged by compression on every dive and over time loses its insulating ability.

A good quality drysuit will last longer than a wetsuit. It will keep a diver warmer and reduce unearned fatigue from hypothermia and nitrogen retention.

If a wetsuit is the only option then go with a two piece 7mm suit, a quality hood, mitts, and boots.

If you have ever gone for a day of diving then feel tired or hungry after diving you are getting cold and your insulation is insufficient.
 
Unfortunately the dry suits start at around $700 and go up from there (DiveRiteExpress.com has one for $1800!!!) I was hoping to somehow keep this under $200 for the time being. Besides a dry suit is whole 'nother thing to learn and I'm still at the stage of working on bouyancy and my SAC rate. :11: Which I'll never do if I only dive 4 times a year in Florida, so I'd better figure something out for local use...

Thanks for the responses!!!
 
Keeping it under the $200 mark blows out what I use...Mares Isotherm. Before that I used 5mm with hood, gloves, boots. I did a dive in March and used the 5mm plus a 2mm shorty and was fine. Diving in IN I rarely see anyone using a 7mm unless it is the first part of the dive season or they are easily chilled.
 
stsomewhere:
Generally is there a conversion chart or formula that ties water temps with wetsuit thicknesses?
And I thought golf was expensive!!!
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Here is a general chart I found about 5 years ago; everyone has a different tolerance to cold water. Want to buy a set of right hand clubs? Mine have been idle since my OW certification!
 
If you can wear stock of the rack wetsuits then you should be able to find a good wetsuit for under $200. I just looked and saw several 7mm FJ suits for $149-$189.

It may be a store brand or closeout model but that would still work.
 
here's what I'm doing, and suggest for you to do also:

I have a 3mm full body Akona suit, then I'm gonna layer on top a 5-7mm vest/hood combo.

This way you'll keep your core warm, while still having some flexibility for your arms/legs.

You'll probably wanna buy a size larger for the vest though.

Anyone else doing this?
 
I guess it really depends what kind of diving a person wants to do. How long, how many dives and how deep. Most Quarries will get into the low 40's at depth and will be close to that year round. At around 4ata the suit will be crushed flat and have minimal insulation.
 

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