My Rix SA-6 Diesel

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Why all the connection extensions? eg M to FF to MM to FF to M on the digital gauge...
You arent mounting this on a table are you? How are does this fit on the wall?

The M to FF to M on the digital gauge is because I ran out of pieces. It should really have been a little shorter.

As far as a rack goes I'm toying with a few ideas but so far I think might have some sort of attachment and weld it to the top of the cage that the compressor sits in. It sounds goofy, but it would keep the gauges high if the unit was set on the ground. I was thinking a piece of square stock sort of like a hitch facing straight up and I could slip the tower into it and lock it with a pin.

Thoughts? I'm open for criticism, I know that it's not conventional, but I'm trying to keep things some what mobile so it's easy to break the unit down and stick it back in the box, and the filter tower can have it's own box.
 
Put the humidity spyglass in line.
Why all the connection extensions? eg M to FF to MM to FF to M on the digital gauge...
Why is there a PMV on the backside?
Why is there a T after the larger PMV with caps on the ends?

You arent mounting this on a table are you? How are does this fit on the wall?

I answered all your questions, any chance you can respond with some more insight after my answers?

I think I might switch the visual indicator back to being inline, but other than that is there anything "wrong" that you see? I emailed August to see what they think about that.

I appreciate your time.
 
I believe the moisture indicator would be more responsive if it was in-line and had continuous flow-through. Yo could put the T before or after for the pressure gauge that you appear to be using to establish the back pressure on the PMV
 
I believe the moisture indicator would be more responsive if it was in-line and had continuous flow-through. Yo could put the T before or after for the pressure gauge that you appear to be using to establish the back pressure on the PMV

I'm thinking moving the indicator is probably next. Plan would be to keep the longer coupling with the indicator and move it between the T and the 90. Pretty easy fix.

Anything else?
 
And the T is for a future idea of having straight O2 so I can use that gauge and the same whips...right now it has a plug.
What do you mean straight O2?

The M to FF to M on the digital gauge is because I ran out of pieces. It should really have been a little shorter.

As far as a rack goes I'm toying with a few ideas but so far I think might have some sort of attachment and weld it to the top of the cage that the compressor sits in. It sounds goofy, but it would keep the gauges high if the unit was set on the ground. I was thinking a piece of square stock sort of like a hitch facing straight up and I could slip the tower into it and lock it with a pin.

Thoughts? I'm open for criticism, I know that it's not conventional, but I'm trying to keep things some what mobile so it's easy to break the unit down and stick it back in the box, and the filter tower can have it's own box.

The idea that you will remove this whole assembly and store it separately and under pressure is crazy to me. You have sensitive and critical connections jutting out every which way. It's only a matter of time before you drop it too.

I would make yourself a SS or aluminum panel and attach that to your frame. Put all the gauges in the panel and use SS tubing and compression fittings on the backside to plumb them. Mount the PMV on the back of the panel and the spy glass goes partially through it. Attach the filter housing to a frame vertical with U-bolts. Hard plumb the compressor outlet to the filter inlet with SS tube. Connect the filter outlet to the panel inlet with SS tubing and compression fittings. Have ~2 QD outlets from the panel similar to how LP shop compressors are plumbed out. Use removable whips attached to those QDs - similar to how you plug air lines into a shop compressor.

What you have currently built is sort of something that would get wall mounted - except there is no side that doesnt have something sticking out. And you can't frame mount it because you want to remove it (for some reason)

If you want mobile then skip all of this and just run the Rix like it was originally built. Or build a bigger box which holds the compressor with the new panel and filter mounted on it.
 
I believe the moisture indicator would be more responsive if it was in-line and had continuous flow-through. Yo could put the T before or after for the pressure gauge that you appear to be using to establish the back pressure on the PMV
They are not very responsive and even in line can take 30-60 mins to change.
 
What do you mean straight O2?



The idea that you will remove this whole assembly and store it separately and under pressure is crazy to me. You have sensitive and critical connections jutting out every which way. It's only a matter of time before you drop it too.

I would make yourself a SS or aluminum panel and attach that to your frame. Put all the gauges in the panel and use SS tubing and compression fittings on the backside to plumb them. Mount the PMV on the back of the panel and the spy glass goes partially through it. Attach the filter housing to a frame vertical with U-bolts. Hard plumb the compressor outlet to the filter inlet with SS tube. Connect the filter outlet to the panel inlet with SS tubing and compression fittings. Have ~2 QD outlets from the panel similar to how LP shop compressors are plumbed out. Use removable whips attached to those QDs - similar to how you plug air lines into a shop compressor.

What you have currently built is sort of something that would get wall mounted - except there is no side that doesnt have something sticking out. And you can't frame mount it because you want to remove it (for some reason)

If you want mobile then skip all of this and just run the Rix like it was originally built. Or build a bigger box which holds the compressor with the new panel and filter mounted on it.

Straight, 100% O2 for PP blending. I don't really want or think I need to buy another gauge by doing it this way. It's for future use.

The plan is to build a mount or a rack for it that will protect all the stuff jutting out. I really doubt that this thing will travel all that much, but in the off chance it does, I want it to be able to. 99% of its life will be spent in a shop. It'll be a clip / mount / rack that will go on the side of the frame. I don't have any plans to take it anywhere until I have some type of protection built.

I don't want to use the Rix as is, as all I have are steel tanks and I really don't want to pump a bunch of moisture into them and have to deal with that often.

As far as a panel and compression fittings and and SS tubing, maybe one day. I'm sure things will change over time. I have looked at that option, but I wanted to get up and running sooner than later.

They are not very responsive and even in line can take 30-60 mins to change.

Yeah, that's getting replumbed inline after the T for the gauge. I'll use a long 1/4" nipple to keep space in between so there's easy access to unscrew it.
 
The plan is to build a mount or a rack for it that will protect all the stuff jutting out. I really doubt that this thing will travel all that much, but in the off chance it does, I want it to be able to. 99% of its life will be spent in a shop. It'll be a clip / mount / rack that will go on the side of the frame. I don't have any plans to take it anywhere until I have some type of protection built.

In other words, you are buying a doubles wing and mounting it on a single tank on the off chance that you will someday want doubles.

I would use that frame to mount everything properly. If you want to move it, rent or buy an enclosed trailer, wheel it in there on a dolly and strap it to the wall. Wheel it out at your campsite and fire it up.
 
In other words, you are buying a doubles wing and mounting it on a single tank on the off chance that you will someday want doubles.

Gosh I hope not.... I've already been down that line of thinking on wings. I own a single wing and a doubles wing now.

I would use that frame to mount everything properly. If you want to move it, rent or buy an enclosed trailer, wheel it in there on a dolly and strap it to the wall. Wheel it out at your campsite and fire it up.

I like that idea. For right now it doesn't really matter what I come up with as it's not moving for the immediate future. I was just curious if all the fittings (besides the visual indicator) looked correct. I think everything else is squared away, yes?
 
I have to echo @rjack321 on this: you’ve created a fairly ugly duckling, when, in your own words, 99% of the time there is no reason for you to have done so. But maybe, just in case, on the off chance of an unlikely activity, you’ve added a great deal of… weirdness.

For example, you’re adding tees and caps and other fittings for the possibility of dealing with pure oxygen down the road, just to save the purchase price of a single gauge. That causes me to cringe badly for two reasons: one, when you’re dealing with pure oxygen, it’s a really good idea to be careful and rigorous in how you’re doing so, not just adding pure 02 to a random collection of fittings. And two, you’re making some thing that you’re hoping to use regularly a great deal more cumbersome to use, because of something you’re not even certain exactly what or how you will use.

You’ve told us in the past, you’re a long-time expert with high pressure gas, so you do you. I am the opposite of an expert in dealing with high-pressure gas. Maybe that’s why I tend to try to aim for a higher standard: I don’t know what risks can be taken safely, so I tend to take fewer risks.

But that is not a collection of fittings that I would be proud of, nor would it be something I would be targeting as a a usable result. Not because it can’t work: it probably will work. I just don’t like a lot of “probably“ when dealing with high-pressure gas. Let alone the idea of then extending that with pure oxygen.
 

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