My SP G250 broke. Any suggestions?

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I don’t know if there is a solvent that would work for the repair, acetone will be a good cleaner and if the previous owner tried super glue (it doesn’t work for wet environments) it will clean the residue off, strip it completely before messing with it since the internals are the only valuable parts there. Find a 200 first.

Honestly I don’t know what the previous owner used to bond it. I assume glue, but it could have been epoxy.
 
I love G250s. They can be had for $25-50 via ebay. Save it for parts. Don't waste your time repairing.
 
I love G250s. They can be had for $25-50 via ebay. Save it for parts. Don't waste your time repairing.

Not sure the last time you got one there.... Right now, the lowest is $78 for one with a MK10, and another second alone for $80. Most others (and by themselves), are north of $100.

YMMV
 
Re the repair, perhaps PVC pipe cement would work. This thread would be better suited in the DIY forum where the "out of the box" gang hangs out.
 
The best advise would be to replace the case.
If not, the best bet would be :
Clean the crack completelly to remove all signs of the old glue.
Over the crack edges put some Sodium Bicarbonate.
Use cyanoacrilate (loctite) and put the pieces together.
In the outside reinforce the crack with cord and imbibe with more Loctite. The cord should be over the crack.
In the inside reinforce the crack with pieces of ABS plastic glued with Loctite.
 
If you want to try, the ONLY thing I'd use on 'plastic', for a mission critical repair like that, is JB weld.
FWIW I've been using epoxy from 5" > 3 hours, superglue of various sorts, UV glue, and a BUNCH of others. All of them have a place. When you need it to hold....JB Weld.
It's the only thing that would repair a cracked plastic radiator top that had to hold pressure and went through a LOT of heat and cool cycles. I tried a bunch of other epoxies with fiberglass reinforcement that lasted awhile but always gave up.
Did an emergency repair on a drysuit inlet valve (same material I think as the reg) where the thread simply broke away from the body. It was meant to be temporary. Used it for over a year with weekly use, before replacing it. It was still fine.

Clean completely, put a thin coat on the mating surfaces, just enough to barely squish out when mated-you want to avoid a large bead on the inside. Then build up a nice fillet on the outside. Let cure for 24 hours or longer.
Takes a good while to setup so you have plenty of working time.
 
Thank you all for your suggestions, I guess I'll try to get a "new" one to repair before trying my hand at JB Weld or similar.

As I'm looking for a new G200 or G250, does it matter which variant? For example, if I'm only considering the case, would a G200B or G250 Graphite or G250v be the same?
 
would a G200B or G250 Graphite or G250v be the same?
G200/G200B/G250/G250HP/and graphite models should all have interchangeable cases. I don't know about the G250V.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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