Need input regarding 1st Regulator Set.

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I'd take the Mk19 over Mk17 because I prefer the hose routing for a single tank rig that I get by using the bottom low pressure port on the Mk19. Basically, the 19 can do anything the 17 can (except fit in a smaller box), but the converse is not true.
 
My Mk17 and Mk 19 , last dive trip I had a S600 I see in the photo, another great 2nd stage.
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Hello folks,
I follow this blog since a few weeks and I'm really impressed about the great input you give. After over 200+ dives with (sometimes funny) rental gear, even finishing my dive master in Komodo I finally want to buy my own gear. As rental gear is pretty wacky at times - I did not have a great expectation regarding special features.
I will start my IDC in Indonesia soon and need some reliable gear for the next 1000+ dives

I'm currently sitting in Germany heading out for Indonesia so after comparing prices I think it's a good place to buy the gear as in Indonesia there are some shipping costs & taxes. I watched hours and hours of comparisons of different regulators but still cannot decide between the hundreds of different options.

What I search:
- reliable Regulator which does not fail me
- environmentally sealed
- future proof regarding serviceability, especially in Asia
- mostly doing warm water dives but if spending the money i would like it to be used in cold water possible too
- Nitrox EAN 40 compatible
- balanced
- not too heavy

This is my shortlist:
Scubapro MK25 / A700
Aqualung Leg3nd Elite
Apeks XTX 200

Do you have some input regarding those models ? :)

Greetings,
Andi
I wouldn't buy more than you need now. Reliable, cheap and light should be what you are focused on. For serviceability in Asia you'll want Scubapro or Mares. Aqualung would normally be in this group, but things are a little uncertain right now due to their financial situation.

The reason for this is that as an instructor, your shop may require you to use something they sell. You should be also be eligible for pro deals if you decide you really need tech capable gear.

I'll let the Scubapro experts give your their picks, but for warm water diving, I suggest this Mares 15X Prestige set for €309.


At that price, you won't lose much if you sell later to move to a higher end reg. Or keep it as a backup or student loaner.
 
The reason for this is that as an instructor, your shop may require you to use something they sell.

That is a very good point. Anywhere you go to work MAY require that.

A good quality used setup may be the best way to go to get something reliable enough for use during your IDC, but not be so expensive that you are hating life when the shop you go to work for requires you to buy something different. And even if they don't require it, you should at least be able to buy a shiny new set then for a discount, if you still want one.
 
You are in Germany_ this is a big plus.
Look at Tecline
 
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A good quality used setup may be the best way to go to get something reliable enough for use during your IDC, but not be so expensive that you are hating life when the shop you go to work for requires you to buy something different. And even if they don't require it, you should at least be able to buy a shiny new set then for a discount, if you still want one.
That's originally why I checked German eBay, but then I saw the new Prestige 15X for 309. I couldn't find anything used under Mares that would be a better deal, especially assuming the OP would want to get it serviced before heading out.

I bought this set for my son and it works great. The non-adjustable seconds are actually a bonus if you'll be loaning or renting them out eventually.
 
My first recommendation is to do your homework and see what brands are popular in Indonesia and purchase one of those.

My second recommendation is to purchase the mid-level gear unless the price difference for high-end is minimal.

My last recommendation is to purchase some service kits to bring with you just in case. I was in Manila and wanted to stock up on service kits when the shop I was in (supposedly an Apeks distributor) had only 2 kits (and no DIN convertors). So even though the brand may be popular they may not have the parts available.
 
I was trying to stick to his stated requirements, not mine and for once stay on topic. For me, a Mark 2 Evo and two nice G250s are the cats(fishes) meow! Nothing could be more simple or reliable or really perform much better or be more cool! And being cool is important :wink:.

Complicated (Expensive) < ME >>>>> (Inexpensive) Simple

The force vectors on the seesaw have changed for me, the more complicated and expensive you guys :poke:get the more simple I am inclined to become. And a G250 is about as simple and reliable as a balanced second stage can be and is time proven for performance and reliability and what is more dirt simple than a Mark 2 Evo? Answer for both, nothing, nothing that equals the breathing performance :stirpot: .

See what you did, you got me off topic, bad Eric :cheers:.
OK then, a MK2 and two G200B’s.
The G200b is identical to the G250 minus the tuning knob.
IMO a tuning knob is another thing to fiddle with. I never touch the knobs on any if my 109’s even the balanced one, which would be about like a metal version of the G250. Put fiddly things on equipment and people will fiddle. To me it’s kinda like a wing with an inflator. It’s there so why not fill and dump air and fiddle with it. Do we really need to fill and dump as much as we do? Or are we just fiddling? Last dive I set my weight and did not use a wing. I was liberated because there was no inflator slapping around to fiddle with and I eliminated a distraction in that particular dive that would have otherwise been superfluous.
 
OK then, a MK2 and two G200B’s.
The G200b is identical to the G250 minus the tuning knob.
Nah, the G200 is does not have the tuning adjustment knob, which means I have to set the Mark 2 high end IP lower than I might otherwise (worst choice, which I am not going to do) or tune the G200 tighter (better choice, which I would do) so as to prevent free flow. If going with an unbalanced first stage to reduce complexity and parts count there then accepting the tuning knob is needed on the second stage end, cannot have the cake and eat it too :wink:. The tuning knob really does not add a failure point of significance over the non adjustable but still balanced G200.

Over the weekend I completely serviced my wife's Gen 1 Legend. I am really more impressed with that regulator now more than ever. It has a micro adjust screw, a tightly balanced, albeit, diaphragm (yuk) first stage and is just a well developed and matured product now eclipsed by the equally good and smaller Core/Helix first stage.

I just cannot get over using a piece of 12 gauge wire rod as a push pin to open the seat against pressure, even though that force differential is small due to the balancing. The Legend (and Core/Helix) did reduce parts count vs the Conshelf (leaving the ACD which I like aside). There is no slip washer in the first stage diaphragm assembly, they eliminated a spring and the crown block balance chamber by combining into the end cap as an integral function and got rid of the chintzy snap ring to hold the innards inside. Too bad AL (and Apeks) are in trouble.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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