Newbie - Diving in St. Croix

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Rebecca L Mettert

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Location
salem oregon
# of dives
None - Not Certified
Hi everyone.
My name is Rebecca and my husband and I are thinking about moving to St Croix. He is a dive master, working towards instructor. Can you please give me details about the dive sites around the island.

Thank you,
Rebecca Mettert
 
Lots of variety. Deep, shallow, wrecks, boat and shore. Check with the dive shops, they have maps and descriptions.
 
Hi everyone.
My name is Rebecca and my husband and I are thinking about moving to St Croix. He is a dive master, working towards instructor. Can you please give me details about the dive sites around the island.

Thank you,
Rebecca Mettert


It is a faily large place, so having a car is mandatory. Northern and Western coasts are the better places to stay for diving and was one of the more memorable trips I've had. The topside experience was unexpectedly diverse, and it was a great adventure.

While many islands have one main town, St. Croix has two. There is a large rainforest area on one side, then there is Davis Bay with its' idyllic vistas, hiking, and tidal pools. In contrast, the other end of the island around Port Udall has more of an arid vibe with amazing views out over the Atlantic. In between there are some great places to eat and hangout. There was also some unexpected local wildlife around too. I recall a pair of Mongoose that would play every morning in the yard of our hotel, bats flying past the dinner table, and the craziest epic hermit crab migration I've ever seen.

Not to be missed is the extraordinary Elkhorn coral barrier reef dive on the eastern side of Buck Island (hope it is all still there after the last round of hurricanes). St. Croix also has some good shore diving. Of the five or so dives we did at Frederiksted Pier (including night dives), one particular dive during the day was perhaps top-three all-time that I have ever experienced. If you are up to it, walk all the way out to the end of the pier and do the 30ft giant stride in, then surface swim the rest of the way out to the absolute end of the structure. You'll descend in about 60ft of water and then slowly wind your way back to shore through a surreal forest of heavily encrusted giant pylons. We did 125 minutes on air and saw everything from huge Green Moray Eel, Turtles, Squid, Seahorses, Octopus, and Scorpion Fish, to gigantic schools of Silversides that completely engulfed us blocking out everything - magical!

Hope this helps!
 
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Hi Carlos,

Thanks for replying back to me. I personally, as a non-diver, really appreciate your descriptions of topside activities. What types of restaurant cuisines are there? For example Mexican, Indian, Italian, Thai, Chinese, or Japanese. Are there any other land-based activities in addition to the hiking? I would love to try zip-lining. You mentioned it was a fairly large place. Are there places to run quads?

I am currently pursuing my AAS degree in hotel and tourism management. Did tourism take a big hit from the hurricane? How did the hotels fair? I plan to gain employment at a hotel/resort as an event manager.

I read your comments about diving to my husband, and he asked several more questions. He said the 30ft giant stride sound exhilarating. He wondered how you managed 125 minutes at 60 feet? The RDP limits 60-foot dives to 55 minutes, and even if it didn't, that's a long time on one tank. He said it must have been a steel 100. Is that correct? What type of creatures swim the waters at night?
 
Lots of variety. Deep, shallow, wrecks, boat and shore. Check with the dive shops, they have maps and descriptions.

Hi Tater,

I'm really looking for a personal experience I can relate to. Have you dove in St. Croix and what was your favorite?

Thanks,
Rebecca
 
Hi Carlos,

Thanks for replying back to me. I personally, as a non-diver, really appreciate your descriptions of topside activities. What types of restaurant cuisines are there? For example Mexican, Indian, Italian, Thai, Chinese, or Japanese. Are there any other land-based activities in addition to the hiking? I would love to try zip-lining. You mentioned it was a fairly large place. Are there places to run quads?

I am currently pursuing my AAS degree in hotel and tourism management. Did tourism take a big hit from the hurricane? How did the hotels fair? I plan to gain employment at a hotel/resort as an event manager.

I read your comments about diving to my husband, and he asked several more questions. He said the 30ft giant stride sound exhilarating. He wondered how you managed 125 minutes at 60 feet? The RDP limits 60-foot dives to 55 minutes, and even if it didn't, that's a long time on one tank. He said it must have been a steel 100. Is that correct? What type of creatures swim the waters at night?

It has been a number of years since I was there, but from all I saw of the aftermath from the recent Hurricanes (Maria) I'm sure some things have changed; looked like a lot of damage. My comments were based on what I remember from our trip years ago, so not really in a position to attest to how life on the island is currently. Hopefully they are recovering well. Perhaps someone else will chime-in with news on how things are going. There were some interesting places to eat and hangout, but you had to dig around to find the special ones. As I recall many of the good spots leaned towards the usual Mediterranean/seafood, etc., but it's been a while.

The island is about 22 miles long with just about every type of terrain; even strangely divergent micro-climates from lush humid rain forests to dry/arid scrub-land; from flat areas to steep and hilly, and everything in between. Some places are breathtakingly beautiful; others not so much. I recall there being a lot of cyclists around. There are a few golf courses, and I wouldn't be surprised if they had some good zip-lining somewhere. Never noticed any quads while I was there, but probably could do some horseback riding. We stayed at Carambola in Davis Bay, which was just beautiful at the time. We shore dove the whole area from Cane Bay almost all the way down to Hams Bluff; plus many of the western sites, including the famed Frederiksted Pier. The shore diving alone was one of the big attractions for me at the time.

Most people dive the Frederiksted Pier in kind of a "down-n-back" fashion; were the profile would progress from shallow to deep, then back to shallow. It was a little difficult to dive the entire thing down and back on an standard AL80. So, we rented some AL100s from Carambola, drove to Frederiksted, and jumped off the far end of the pier; which is a pretty fair walk from shore fully loaded. From there you have to surface swim the remaining distance out to the very end of the structure. We were able to do the extended dive time because only the start of the dive was at 60ft. From there you are immediately progressing into shallower and shallower depths getting off-gas credits until you are back at the shore end, which was maybe 10ft-15ft deep; never even got close to blowing out. We even had time to go back along the ruins of the previously pier structure that had been destroyed in a hurricane many years before. [My all-time record is 128 minutes in Cozumel on a steel HP120/EAN36 starting from about the middle of Palancar Gardens, across Dalila, and finishing at the end of La Francesa Shallows - no fish story!]

Anyway, as far sea life is concerned; pretty much all the usual stuff you would expect to find in the Caribbean. Sea Horses seemed to be what everyone was talking about at the time, but I remember there seemed to be an unusually high turtle population in the area. Some other divers at the hotel had seen pods of dolphins and a shark or two, but we never got to see those on that trip. I believe there are Humpback whale migrations through there during certain times of the year too, but did not see any of those either unfortunately. The craziest thing were the hermit crabs. We were there right in the middle of the mating season, and they were everywhere and on everything - millions of them covering just about every square foot of the resort.

I had considered moving to the USVI myself at one time, but would probably want to get a better assessment of how their recovery is looking. I dove Grand Turk a full year after hurricane Ike flattened the island, and they were still struggling with a lot of issues at the time. Just an unfortunate reality of Caribbean life.
 
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When I was there last year, I don't think zip lining was an option. Horse back riding, jeep & ATV tours, those you could do (we did a jeep tour with Tan Tan Tours). Food tended to be somewhat expensive; we didn't see many fat Cruzians.

Did you see this? -----Fantastic St. Croix: Too much to do in one vacation! A guide by John Boyd, long-time resident, published Jan. 4, 2017, available in print & Kindle formats. I think it might give you a handle on what the topside options are like.

It might be useful to hear what Caribbean places your husband's dove before, since that'll be his reference for judging the St. Croix dive scene.

Richard.
 
When I was there last year, I don't think zip lining was an option. Horse back riding, jeep & ATV tours, those you could do (we did a jeep tour with Tan Tan Tours). Food tended to be somewhat expensive; we didn't see many fat Cruzians.

Did you see this? -----Fantastic St. Croix: Too much to do in one vacation! A guide by John Boyd, long-time resident, published Jan. 4, 2017, available in print & Kindle formats. I think it might give you a handle on what the topside options are like.

It might be useful to hear what the Caribbean places your husband's dove before since that'll be his reference for judging the St. Croix dive scene.

Richard.

Hi Richard,
Great to hear from you. My husband Jeff has dove in many Caribean locations. Here are a few of the sites He has dove.
Grand Cayman: Wreck of the Oro Verde, and Lonestar Ledges
Cozumel: Paradise Reef and Santa Rosa Wall which was one of his favorite dive sites. Jeff dove this site three times
Cancun: C-58 Wreck Dives
Playa Del Carmen, Dos Ojos Cenote.
Have you dived at any of these sites? What did you think? And what are some of the other dive sites you recommend?
 
Many years ago I dove the Oro Verde wreck (& accidentally ventured off with another group; my wife fetched me back), and Cozumel's Santa Rosa wall, 1 dive each, on cruise ship stops. I got 25 dives in from the Cayman Aggressor live-aboard, to flesh out some Caymans exposure.

My subjective impression is that St. Croix's diving won't consistently match the Caymans, or the outer atolls region of Belize (such as Lighthouse Reef). It can be good, and the north wall offers plenty of reef shark sightings, plus the Frederiksted Pier is extra special, but on the forum if you make a mental note of what gets claimed as 'the best in the Caribbean,' I think more people cite Little Cayman, with Cayman Brac and the east end of Grand Cayman also highly praised, and some might claim Turks & Caicos or maybe the outer atoll region of Belize (such as via live-aboard).

But St. Croix's big enough to have a nice, varied topside. And you can ferry over to St. Thomas, so you're not entirely 'stuck' on just one island!

I highly suggest spending some time there diving & exploring the topside before making any plans to live there. That's standard advice I see given by others for moving anywhere, but all the more so to an island. Let him see the diving himself. My trip report included photos, but there's no substitute for experiencing it himself.

Richard.
 
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