Olympus 5050 vs 5060 vs 8080

[Gazzer]

Just to stir things up a bit further. I have to confess that I am always amused when divers discuss the pros and cons of image quality of the various digital cameras and lenses. Assuming that we are talking about using the camera principally for underwater pictures. Can anyone truthfully say they can tell the difference? As a test have a look at my gallery pictures I just uploaded from a recent dive trip to Komodo...... any guess as to what camera was used?

High end digital SLR to budget point and shoot camera, underwater results can be just as good from either and believe me..... no one could tell. The difference between the two is ease of use and flexibility in different situations. The expensive digital SLR's are great at everything, change the lens you got superb macro, another change, great wide angle, instant shutter response to take that fish portrait! That's really the difference not the image quality.

The secret is to understand the limitations of the rig you are using. Most digital cameras make it almost impossible to get good, free swimming, fish portraits due to the shutter lag... on a nice stationary subject like nudi's or scorpion fish the results can be fantastic. Forget chasing fish around, look under the rocks! Stick a wet wide angle lens on your 'cheap' housing and you have the possibility to take pictures just as good as any digital SLR costing 10 times the price......

So what about REAL image quality....... come on guys, we are taking pictures underwater.... no straight lines, particles everywhere, what is the true color of the reef... does anybody care. The environment that we play in makes it a level playing field as far as image quality is concerned!

Just my opinion :11:

 

[ReyeR]

I will have to disagree with you on that gazzer. Sure, with a close-up (eg nudibranch) at internet resolution (e.g. 640x480@72ppi) it's pretty hard to tell if it came out of a prosumer or DSLR but if you're working at 100% resolution there is a difference. Less noise, better dynamic range and the pictures are just rendered with a much better 'film' feel. I will hazard a guess and say your Komodo pics didn't come out of a DSLR, perhaps a qood quality prosumer camera. BTW you have some nice pics there.

I agree with you that you should know the limit (and push to the limit) of the tools you are working with - some things will just be easier with a DSLR....

Just my 2 bar.

 

[mike thompson]

Hello All!

I’m planning to replace my camera in the near future and would like to get some opinions.

Given what I’ve seen from other divers, Olympus looks like the way to go. Picture quality is very high and cameras seem to be more cost effective. Hence my question:

I would like to choose between 5050, 5060, and 8080. For the time being, I would take the money factor out of the equation. Bottom line is I would be willing to fork out some extra cash for 8080, should the difference be warranted.

I realize 5050 has the best aperture range – has anyone had any experience with comparing these three models in the low light environment?

Would anyone choose Ikelite housing over the Olympus housing? One thing I have to consider is an Ikelite Video like which I already have. It would be my preference to continue using it with the new setup, and I may have to buy additional accessories to get it to work. Again – for the time being, please ignore the fact that Ikelite housing is more expensive than Olympus. If the difference is justifiable I don’t mind spending the money.

Any general comments as far as these 3 cameras go? Ability to focus underwater? Picture Quality? Battery Life? Performance in low light situations?

Your opinions will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

I have had three Olympus caneras(4040, 5050, and C8080. and have always used Ikelite housing when using my strobes. First you can see all of your controls, they are bulletproof. and with the ttl cord and Ikelite 125 strobe on the 5050 and 8080 you can use the ttl capablities of the camera.
I do have a olympus housing for the 4040 but only use it when snorkling, but have heard many flooding stories about Olympus housings. I love Olympus cameras the glass they use in there lenses are great.

Mike Thompson
The 8080 does not have nearley the shutter lag as the 5050

 

[bzbcal]

I have had three Olympus caneras(4040, 5050, and C8080. and have always used Ikelite housing when using my strobes. First you can see all of your controls, they are bulletproof. and with the ttl cord and Ikelite 125 strobe on the 5050 and 8080 you can use the ttl capablities of the camera.
I do have a olympus housing for the 4040 but only use it when snorkling, but have heard many flooding stories about Olympus housings. I love Olympus cameras the glass they use in there lenses are great.

Mike Thompson
The 8080 does not have nearley the shutter lag as the 5050

5050z with Light and Motion Tetra housing and ROC Strobe Control produces supurb photos. Wetmate WAL and Macro lens are available.

 

[Scuba_Vixen]

It's interesting how this thread has been so ongoing. I think you have to divide UW camera users into 2 basic groups and if you're contemplating getting into UW photography, decide which group you'll likely fit into. Those 2 would be: 1) The point and shoot, underwater tourist taking snaps to remember the trip and show the folks at home kinda users, (sorta like recreational divers) and 2) The serious type who can't imagine how anyone could be like those in the first type. (sorta like technical divers)

I think each group approaches getting a camera from different perspectives. The point and shoot group looks at price and ease of use, and looks towards the simple all inclusive housing options. Often the camera and housing is seen as a unit, with no plans for a seperate strobe. The techie types, see everything as seperate parts, that together comprise a system. They like the options to design a system suited to their needs. With a system based plan, you can expand it's capabilities and gain good results in more varying conditions. With that gain, you have to expect a greater learning curve and much higher costs. The DSLR's are the pinnacle of the system approach, but the prosumer level cameras are not too far behind.

I found the discussion of the 5050, 5060, & 8080 pros and cons interesting, as I took the system approach last summer and got the 8080. For all it's capabilities, I couldn't imagine strangling it with the Oly housing. I went for the Ikelite, though I'd really like more than a 200' rating, anticipating that they'd come out with a dome port for it in the future (like they did for the 5060) to make use of the wide angle adapter. They did, it does, and it's awesome! I'm still saving for the second DS125, but that's the nice thing with the system approach, even though you'll spend a lot more, it doesn't have to be all at once.

I have to agree with those who spoke of the touchyness of the shutter button, but with a 2 handle tray, it becomes a non issue.

Also, I'm curious, does anyone think they have different results (good pics/bad pics ratio) based on complexity of use when doing a 120' wreck dive as compared to a shallow reef dive? Does the task loading of a more complex camera setup make it harder to get those good shots when you're narced?


Safe dives and Happy Holidays,

Darlene

 

[Gilligan]

I'll toss another log in the fire.
How about the new Olympus Evolt E-300 DSLR with an Oly housing to follow?
The 8080 is running about $600 and the new Evolt DSLR about $1000. (likely to come down).

 

[outlawaggie]

I'll toss another log in the fire.
How about the new Olympus Evolt E-300 DSLR with an Oly housing to follow?
The 8080 is running about $600 and the new Evolt DSLR about $1000. (likely to come down).

I have the 8080 ($640) with an Ikelite housing ($540) I looked at all the options in the $500 to $1000 range. Although a DSLR camera is not that much more the housings seemed to be over double the price. (ie Ikelite housing for a D-70 or Digital Rebel is $1200) I got the housing and strobe for less than the housing alone for a DSLR. Something to consider.

Check out this review
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/olympusc8080wz/

Here's the final conclusion from the above review:

Overall conclusion
My first impression of the C-8080 Wide Zoom was, "at last a prosumer camera that feels as though it is worth its price tag". The C-8080 is built to a higher standard than any of the other eight megapixel digital cameras (save maybe the Sony DSC-F828), with a thick, high grade metal body simple rubber coating and innovative yet unfussy control layout. This is a camera which feels as well put together as a much more expensive digital SLR, you just know it's going to last. Olympus also broke the mold with the C-8080's design and although initially the camera controls may seem complex it all falls into place and changing settings (almost any setting, they're all there) become fast and logical.

The C-8080's has two major assets which set it up as an excellent 'photographic tool'. The first is the thing which dominates the camera's shape, the large lens. Olympus didn't rush to go down the 7x or 8x zoom route, instead they chose a 5x design but kept the lens diameter big and used high quality glass. This has paid off, image quality is excellent, resolution very high with almost no artifacts and no problems created by the lens itself. Of the five eight megapixel digital cameras currently on the market Sony, Canon and Olympus chose to design new lenses for the sensor, in my opinion the Olympus is the best of all. (The only improvement I could suggest would have been a mechanically linked zoom ring).

The second asset is the camera's performance, being in the right place at the right time to get that once in a lifetime shot is one thing, having the camera switched on and ready is another. Thanks to an amazingly short startup time and short auto focus and shutter release lag you're far more likely to capture the moment with the C-8080 than some of the competition, and we really shouldn't underestimate that.

Take other elements into account, good noise reduction keeping higher ISO's cleaner, a good range of image parameter adjustment, good flash performance, the unique 'direct histogram' feature, superb battery life and an excellent LCD monitor which works well even outdoors and there's little doubt the C-8080 deserves our highest rating.

 

[erichK]

firefly

i have done enough research online and the funny thing is that most of these scam shops are closely associated with one another one location many names online, but if ever in doubt ask here or check with reseller ratings they will tell the legit dealers from the cons.

two reputable dealers are
www.bhphotovideo.com
www.adorama.com

these are the only shops out of new york city or brooklyn that can be trusted

FWIW

tooth

I just received an order from 17th Street Photo, another NY shop that seems to have a good rep. They did offer a Mack extended warranty, but certainly didn't push it on me, and seemed to be fairly knowledgable, polite and professional...and significantly cheaper than both Adorama and B&H. They packed the order well and shipped it quickly. Bought the compact Canon S70 and its underwater housing, and noted that they also sell a lot of Sea and Sea stuff, including the 25 auto for about 10% less than Adorama. Be somewhat careful about generic peripherals with both Adorama and 17th though. They won't push junk on you, but may cheerfully let you buy it.

Another MO photo shop that I've just dealt with is ePhoto Craft of Washington DC. Don't know wheter they sell much underwater stuff, but they stood out from the others by advising me *not* to buy some items. Despite some sillinesses with International Bank Drafts (the US really is becoming fortress america!) I'm impressed with their level of concern for customer satisfaction.

 

[fpoole]

Also, I'm curious, does anyone think they have different results (good pics/bad pics ratio) based on complexity of use when doing a 120' wreck dive as compared to a shallow reef dive? Does the task loading of a more complex camera setup make it harder to get those good shots when you're narced?
Safe dives and Happy Holidays,
Darlene

Agree on your above note.

RE: Task loading??
heheh.. I get task loaded at 20', especially with the PT015 housing. Trying to hold one button down and turn another is a little excessive...
I use the PT015 (5050) for natural shots - althought I'm being drawn to the dark side and am looking at Ikelites with strobe (dark side meaning enhancing the orginal idea of the 5050).. but more to your question on Tasking, I would NOT take the PT015 housing down on something complicated with overtasking possibilities unless I pre-determined I was just going to shoot in one mode, no changes etc. or just focusing on one or two items. Not trying to cover the whole ship in one dive. The Key is to pace it and do what you can and come back for what you can't.

The problem I have, and I could be the ONLY one that does, is that if you try shooting too many different ways, you end up focusing on the camera's buttons/menus and pretty much miss anything else going on around you.. like your buddy swimming off etc.. or the great shot that just went by.. so, yes, IMNSHO, I would add deep diving and wreck diving as part of the "Tasks" to include in the dive. You can always come back and shoot in a different mode, but my thoughts would be to keep it as simple as possible. The rule of "Threes" happens quickly and unexpectedly...

Not much help, but something eh???

 

[Wolverine]

I will have to disagree with you on that gazzer. Sure, with a close-up (eg nudibranch) at internet resolution (e.g. 640x480@72ppi) it's pretty hard to tell if it came out of a prosumer or DSLR but if you're working at 100% resolution there is a difference. Less noise, better dynamic range and the pictures are just rendered with a much better 'film' feel. I will hazard a guess and say your Komodo pics didn't come out of a DSLR, perhaps a qood quality prosumer camera. BTW you have some nice pics there.

I agree with you that you should know the limit (and push to the limit) of the tools you are working with - some things will just be easier with a DSLR....

Just my 2 bar.

I totally agree with this. I have both PnS (nikon 4300/Oly 7070) and DSLR (D70) and the picture quality cannot be compared. The PnS will give ok quality but the detail and color of the DSLR is so much more vibrant. If I have more money I would invest in a DSLR set-up but alas, it will take a while for scrounging But it will come sooner or later.