Phooey! My Sunpak flooded.

[Larry C]

Halfway through my first dive on Saturday, the Sunpak stopped working. Got to the boat and opened it up-lots of green (battery acid) water. It was completely filled. The O-Ring was perfect. There was no sign of any contamination that would cause the problem. The cover was fully closed with the tabs out and with only 15 or 20 dives on the replacement, the springs felt nice and strong. POS. I'll box it up and send it to NJ again, but I don't hold out much hope. Meanwhile, with a plane to catch for Grand Cayman on Thursday, I bit the bullet and bought an Inon D2000S at Backscatter. (They happen to be right next door to where I get my fills in Monterey.) Now, if I can only figure out how to install it and use it before Thursday. I'm hoping I can find a way to hook the fiber optic cable to the existing velcro tab on my FL-20, as the AD Mount I had to buy for it precludes the use of my 16mm Sea and Sea wide angle lens. The 58 mm threaded end and 58/46 step adaptor won't fit inside the Inon bayonet mount to screw into my housing. Any advice on settings? I know a bunch of you use this strobe. Gilligan?

 

[clgsamson]

Larry, place the other end of the fiber optic cable right in front of the camera housing and flash, cover it with duct tape.

Also put the strobe in auto and adjust power via the second rotary switch (2.8 lowest power setting - 11 or 13? highest).

 

[f3nikon]

Why only in auto (using the photo sensor on the strobe) when he could use the
"advanced capability" of preflash when in the "TTL" mode? And will Guarantee the correct exposure each and everytime.

Plus the fact that when doing the "paint with light" backscatter removal method the photo sensor will NOT be pointing at the subject when using an accurate semi auto exposure mode.

Oh and sorry to hear about the flood.

 

[DesertEagle]

Larry, I feel for you. On my recent trip to Fiji, the synch cord on my YS-50 flooded. The battery compartment was okay, and the Nikonos was fine. Luckily, someone had an extra strobe (Mr Bubbles from Wetpixel). Even luckier, he was also using ULCS arms. It was an Inon Z-240. That thing was fast!

I can't wait to see your photos. Most likely I'll get an Inon D-2000 for my SP-310.

Don't forget to let some water between the housing and Sea & Sea lens. And you'll need to zoom in just a bit.

 

[Larry C]

Thanks for the help guys. Caloy, thanks for the ductape idea. I think I might ductape it to my FL-20. Then I don't have to turn on the built in flash and I still get the preflash for ttl. I'm still trying to figure out how to tuck the cord into my little velcro block. I think I might have to ream the hole a little. Also, the insulation goes all the way to the end. My old cord had about 1/4" trimmed away. Will it still get a good signal that way?

 

[Gilligan]

Looks like clgsamson's tape suggestion is good for now. I would shave away some of the insulation on the camera end. Maybe use black electrical tape as it is not as sticky as duct tape and won't leave a lot of residue. Bring a roll with you on the trip.

BTW, if you start having problems with the strobe firing but the pictures are still dark this is an indication there is a break in the fiber optic cable. This break causes the strobe to intermittently fire out of sync with the cameras flash. The stress point is at the coupler connection to the strobe itself. I discovered this for the first time in Bali then again on my most recent trip to the PI.

Contrary to Inon's info you can repair it. There is a small length of lead crimped to the cable inside that coupler to prevent it from coming out. You can feel the break in the cable as it is limp at the coupler which indicates only the insulation is holding it together.

To make a quick fix cut the cable at the coupler. Take the coupler apart. Bring a set of mini-screwdrivers with you. Save the cut off piece with the lead crimp on it. Insert the cable back into the coupler making sure it goes all the way in so you can feel it inside the coupler then re-assemble it. Don't shave the insulation on the cable. The fit is tight so the cable should stay in the coupler. When you get home you can carefully pry the lead crimp open and re-attach it to the cable.

After two breaks I am out of cable length and will have to replace it.

 

[Larry C]

Thanks. At $89, that's a pain. I wonder if someone else sells one that will work with it, or maybe you could just get a length of fiber optic cable and install it in the factory connector. Do you use the S-ttl, Jim or do you use the manual settings?

 

[SeaYoda]

Since it's October and the warranty has run out on my Sunpak, I'm just counting the dives before it too becomes a soggy Christmas ornament . It has surprised me so far, I worked it hard this summer giving it every excuse to fail. It will probably fl**d when least expected and most needed .

Sorry yours went belly up Larry.

 

[Gilligan]

Thanks. At $89, that's a pain. I wonder if someone else sells one that will work with it, or maybe you could just get a length of fiber optic cable and install it in the factory connector. Do you use the S-ttl, Jim or do you use the manual settings?

I use the S-TTL most of the time. I kinda switch from full power on manual to various F stops on auto. I like the F stops for the macro stuff and the full power for bigger stuff and the wide angle lens.

The cable is 62.95 on the Inon America website. It comes with the coupler for the strobe and is bare on the other end.

I would love to find a generic one that I could use. I'm not fond of the coil on the Inon one either.

 

[Gilligan]

I put a page up on my PT-010 site on how to repair the Inon fiber optic cable.