Problem fitting Inon UFL-165AD Lens to Recsea S95 Housing

[Nemrod]

The lens hood can be turned but I am not going to tell you to do it as you could ruin your lens.

Yes, I was thinking Teflon tape.

Is that adapter plastic, Delrin or aluminum?

Do you only use AD lenses or do you need to be able to remove the adapter?

N

 

[NautilusCairns]

I tried some thread tape and with a little more experimenting I think it will solve the problem. Thanks for the suggestion. May be easier if I can find some tape that is not quite as wide as what I had in the shed. I just need to back off the adapter a half a turn. Its made of Deldrin. I have a UFL-165 AD and will be getting a UCL- 165AD in the future.

 

[Nemrod]

Here is another solution, instead of loosening the large ring that holds the dome and hood in place, flip your lens over and take a look. See those six screws? Using a new and minty fresh screwdriver, I think it is a #1 bit or maybe a #00, remove them and then clock the AD mount one hole off from where it is now and reinstall.

Yes, the AD mount can be removed and turned. I hesitated to tell you this and I am not going to say how to remove that front ring because it first requires fabricating a tool. But, if you are handy with tools and fixing things, you should be able to clock your lens mount to better align with your camera housing.

If you ruin it, sorry, s--- happens as you know. Or, maybe if you are still young and full of s--- , you have not yet discovered that s--- happens. Please take this admonition in the sense of humor I provide it as I have more than once been hit with s--- when I was least expecting it. If you are up to tempting fate, go for it, if not, live with the Teflon tape.

N

 

[NautilusCairns]

Thanks for that, but I'll stick to the tape unless it becomes unbearable. Don't want to risk screwing the screws unnecessarily. Knowing lens manufacturers they'll be in there pretty tightly. BTW I'm an old fart who only started diving again since retiring a few years ago and now I'm having a go at UW photography,

 

[Nemrod]

LOL, OK, old like me, lol . Hey, did not want to make it sound overly difficult, but a fair warning seemed appropriate so you do not get on an airplane all the way to USA to woop up on me cause you broke your lens following my advice.

 

[squit]

Hi,

I am also having problems with Inon lenses and the Recsea housing. I am using the Dyron adaptor which if fully screwed in with the Inon UFL 165 AD results in ugly black bars in a rectangular distribution (I think caused by the lens hood) even when zoomed to 35mm. This is shown in the picture below:


If I unscrew the adaptor about half a turn, these virtually disappear, with only slight vignetting seen in the top right corner, as follows:


However, with the UWL-105 AD and the adaptor in the same position, I get this:


If I turn the adaptor, the best I can get is this:


I cannot try the Dyron adaptor with my close-up lens because it is currently lying somewhere at the bottom of the Caribbean just off Cozumel!

Are these results as good as can be expected with the Recsea housing and these particular Inon lenses or would the 10 Bar adapter with a 67mm to AD mount give better results (I think used by Nemrod and others)? Should I bite the bullet and buy lenses designed for 28mm cameras?

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Nemrod]

You do understand that the lens hoods MUST be aligned with the camera and port? If they are out of alignment then of course you will see the lens hood in the photos. You will need to adjust the lens hoods to be square to the port and camera using any of the methods mentioned.

As well, photo number two, you have two issues:

1. You did align the port by screwing the lens adapter out slightly which moves the lens from the port increasing vignetting. Solution, adjust lens hood to be aligned to the port when the adapter is fully seated.

2. You are using a lens meant for use in the water in the air/dry. Once the rear element and port are flooded the vignetting will be slightly improved.

N

 

[squit]

Until now I hadn't realised the importance of aligning the lens hood because I had previously used an INON mount base with a Fuji F50fd and had taken for granted that the mount was designed to perfectly align the lens hood.

I've just discovered that the rubber hood for the UWL-105 can easily be removed and turned without unscrewing anything, so this seems straightforward to fix.

However, if I've read the previous posts in this thread correctly, it seems I'll either have to put up with the UFL-165 lens being further away from the port and back off the adaptor half a turn (as NautilusCairns seems to be doing) or fiddle with the lens itself and risk breaking it in the process!

Removing the screws on the back to adjust the AD Mount seems reasonably safe, but is it still possible to damage the lens by doing this?

Thank you for the help.

 

[NautilusCairns]

Until now I hadn't realised the importance of aligning the lens hood because I had previously used an INON mount base with a Fuji F50fd and had taken for granted that the mount was designed to perfectly align the lens hood.

I've just discovered that the rubber hood for the UWL-105 can easily be removed and turned without unscrewing anything, so this seems straightforward to fix.

However, if I've read the previous posts in this thread correctly, it seems I'll either have to put up with the UFL-165 lens being further away from the port and back off the adaptor half a turn (as NautilusCairns seems to be doing) or fiddle with the lens itself and risk breaking it in the process!

Removing the screws on the back to adjust the AD Mount seems reasonably safe, but is it still possible to damage the lens by doing this?

Thank you for the help.

I think you also need to make sure that moving the AD mount around one position will result in the hood being correctly aligned on the port. Would not be happy to go through this process and find that it still doesn't cure the problem, that's why I decided to go with some teflon tape as I only need to back off the adapter less than a half a turn. Vignetting isn't a problem as long as I remember to zoom in to 35mm otherwise I can see the back of the adapter in the photos. Need a major crop then!! Maybe Dyron needed to do a bit more R and D on this product before putting it on the market.

 

[triggerman365]

I just bought the UFL-165 AD that I will use with the Dyron adapter on my Recsea housing. I have the same alignment issue as others have discussed in this thread. My question is this, has anyone tried removing the six screws and rotating the mount to align the port properly? Thanks