Whats the actual issue? You don't need to screw the adapter all the way. You put the lens on it then screw it and stop at the closest position where the arrow aligns
Problem fitting Inon UFL-165AD Lens to Recsea S95 Housing
- Thread starter NautilusCairns
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The issue is that the larger flanges on the hood are not vertically aligned properly, which is due to the fact that the Dyron AD adapter does not allow for adjustment. It just screws onto the Recsea housing as far as is necessary to be snug. There needs to be a way to make an indexing adjustment (imo). So as has been discussed the adjustment can be done with teflon tape or by removing the six screws on the back of the lens and rotating the position to make the proper alignment. My question is, has anyone successfully done this without damaging the lens?
I am not sure which version of the dyron you have, the current one is made of two parts one with a thread and another one that you secure around the port with an allen screw that has a metal insert to go into the other part to ensure alignment.
You put the first ring loose then you screw the part with the lens attached until the end gently and unscrew until it is aligned with the ring on the port. Then move the ring forward to lock the metal pin into the hole and secure the allen key and you are done. The set up is sturdy and even if the threaded parts does not go to the end it works just fine.
The issue you describe would only occur if you have just one screwing part with no means of adjusting.
You put the first ring loose then you screw the part with the lens attached until the end gently and unscrew until it is aligned with the ring on the port. Then move the ring forward to lock the metal pin into the hole and secure the allen key and you are done. The set up is sturdy and even if the threaded parts does not go to the end it works just fine.
The issue you describe would only occur if you have just one screwing part with no means of adjusting.
I bought mind about one year ago and it is not two parts. That is exactly the way it should be. Thanks for the info, I didn't know there is an updated version.
OP
NautilusCairns
Contributor
You're right Interceptor, that is what needs to be done.
When I first posted this issue I had expected that the threaded component would screw all the way in and then be aligned so that the lens was in the correct position and that the locking ring was to simply ensure the adapter did not unscrew when taking the lens off. Now I realise that the adapter needs to be screwed back out so that the lens is aligned and then the locking ring keeps it there. I still use some thread tape as it makes everything nice and firm.
I don't know whether rotating the lens mount one screw position would be any better and I wouldn't want to start unscrewing things not knowing whether it would be any more accurately aligned and I am not sure how you could measure that in advance.
When I first posted this issue I had expected that the threaded component would screw all the way in and then be aligned so that the lens was in the correct position and that the locking ring was to simply ensure the adapter did not unscrew when taking the lens off. Now I realise that the adapter needs to be screwed back out so that the lens is aligned and then the locking ring keeps it there. I still use some thread tape as it makes everything nice and firm.
I don't know whether rotating the lens mount one screw position would be any better and I wouldn't want to start unscrewing things not knowing whether it would be any more accurately aligned and I am not sure how you could measure that in advance.
In order to further secure it there are two options:
1. Put some threaded tape - recommended
2. Use loctite
I would not recommend the second because if for any reason you need to service the front port you might need access to the glass
By all means the set up with the new version of the adapter is sturdy I see no reason to fidget with tape!
1. Put some threaded tape - recommended
2. Use loctite
I would not recommend the second because if for any reason you need to service the front port you might need access to the glass
By all means the set up with the new version of the adapter is sturdy I see no reason to fidget with tape!
hi guys read this thread with lots of interests as this is a problem i have been getting with my recsea housing/S95 and inon AD fisheye lens, i havent got the dyon adapter tho i have one like this Recsea 52mm quick mount adapter for Recsea S95 or FIX S90 | Bluewater Photo & Video although this one is for screw in lens i have the baynet ones, but cant find a link for the adapter i have, any advice on how to get rid of the unsightly black marks of the lens in my photos using this mount?
thanks
thanks
Step zoom to 35mm
thanks for that, would i have been better off getting the LD lens instead of the AD? as not sure what the difference between them is? i did have one underwater comp tell me i was using the wrong lens [AD] with that camera, doesnt zooming to 35 mean i miss some of the view and if i had the AD lens would have a wider view if these were made for the wider lens cameras? hope that makes sense
if so please reply in laymans terms, thanking you in advance
The LD lens offers 145 degrees once you buy the dome that costs you £850
With the lens you have and step zoom you get 150
I think that is more than enough
Alternatively the fisheye lens uwl28m52 offers 160
With the lens you have and step zoom you get 150
I think that is more than enough
Alternatively the fisheye lens uwl28m52 offers 160
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