but do you still get 160 if you zoom to get rid of the vinegetting?
so what are difference between the LD and the AD as it says the LD are for cameras with 28mm lens ie canon s95
Problem fitting Inon UFL-165AD Lens to Recsea S95 Housing
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but do you still get 160 if you zoom to get rid of the vinegetting?
so what are difference between the LD and the AD as it says the LD are for cameras with 28mm lens ie canon s95
No, the Inon UFL165AD with the S90 in the FIX90 or the S95 in the Recsea95 housing you get a FOV of approximately 150 degrees diagonal. This is not because of the zooming to 35mm which is REQUIRED for that lens but because the camera lens is slightly to far back for best coupling. Does this really matter---NO! The FOV with the native camera lens and flat port is only about 60 degrees at best if that.
Is the Inon UFL165AD the wrong lens--yes and no. It is the wrong lens if you did not want to have to use the step zoom ring function or custom settings. It is the right lens if you wanted a sharp, clear, bright, small fisheye wide angle lens that has a bayonet quick attachment with close focus right to the dome surface.
If you wanted the widest FOV the new Fisheye/FIX UWL-28 would be it with right at 165 degrees DFOV. Followed by the discontinued Fisheye UWL-04 with about 155 DFOV. The Inon LD100 with dome is also around 155 degrees DFOV but is very expensive and heavy because it has the glass dome.
The older Inon UWL100-67 with dome also requires step zooming to 35mm, it produces about 130 degrees DFOV or maybe slightly less but it is a very sharp, clear and bright lens because of the coated glass dome.
BTW, I own (shhh, that I will admit and a few secret rigs as well) and therefore have actually tested:
Inon UCL165AD
Inon UCL165-67
Inon UFL165AD
Inon UWL100-67 with dome kit
Inon ULFM150
Fisheye/FIX UWL-04
Fisheye/FIX UWL-28
And BTW as a general note and possibly my new sig, anyone who does not like how I say something or why I say something or what I should have said or could have said instead of what I said or does not like my hair or my choice of blue jeans, as some fellow in a recent thread, is welcome to put me on ignore. And, not directed at any particular or specific person, please do not write me any abusive or whiny PMs either. I am what I am and that is all that I am and one can like it or not.
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The inon is a great lens or the s95 it has so much depth of field that you can shoot at fixed settings almost anything
The lens was designed for 35 mm equivalent so you need to zoom
Other lenses may offer more field of view but he compact size and the AD mount are worth loosing a few degrees
The lens was designed for 35 mm equivalent so you need to zoom
Other lenses may offer more field of view but he compact size and the AD mount are worth loosing a few degrees
thanks guys great info, ive had a good play around with my lens and mount today, and it appears that i hadnt got the mount in the right place...leaving wonky uneven vinegetting, which meant i was having to zoom much more than the 35, which is why i wondered if this lens was right for my housing as i was loosing so much, however, i know only get a bit and even that is gone when zoomed to 35 
thanks guys great info, ive had a good play around with my lens and mount today, and it appears that i hadnt got the mount in the right place...leaving wonky uneven vinegetting, which meant i was having to zoom much more than the 35, which is why i wondered if this lens was right for my housing as i was loosing so much, however, i know only get a bit and even that is gone when zoomed to 35
Good, I am happy you are figuring it out. It is true that for a simple, screw it on and go lens, the Fisheye UWL-04 (discontinued) or UWL-28 (current) or the Dryon fisheye that looks like the old UWL-04 would be the best choice. They require no zoom typically but they are thread on lenses so they are difficult to remove underwater and they are also larger, heavier significantly.
The Inon UFL165AD, is especially prone to ghosting, I have come to believe it is because the interior of the acrylic dome is either not coated with anti-reflective materials or that they are inferior to those on other similar lenses. When shooting with the UFL165AD you MUST keep your strobes BEHIND the view of the lens and you must pay attention to where the sun is. Sometimes you will need to pan the camera around a bit to find the "view" that results in the least ghosting.
Ghosting with dome lenses is a common problem, it happens with them all to some extent under certain conditions. Generally glass is better than acrylic, larger is better than smaller and anti-reflective coatings on the interior surface of the dome really help.
The only wet lenses that use glass domes are the big Inon units, that I am aware of anyways. In the photo below, cw, Inon UWL100-67 with glass dome kit, then the FIX/Fisheye UWL-04 with acrylic dome and then finally the little Inon UFL165AD:
What the UFL165AD does best is getting right up and on the subject, close focus wide angle, and what, if I may, I call wide angle macro. It is the lens for that. For general wide angle, the FIX UWL-28 is easier to deal with. Of course, the AD mount allows you to go from wide angle to macro to native port in a single dive and that can be very fun!
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thanks nemrod that is really helpful, and yes i have noticed quite a lot of ghosting, the lens is quite new to me so i hadnt had to think before about the sun and strobe with ref to the lens. i do remember with a lens getting some ghosting stickers, what are these for? anything to do with what you are talking about? sorry for any naive questions but as said am new to lenses.
and yes the main reason of getting the AD was coz they are baynet, i cross thread on land underwater i dont stand a chance lol
and yes the main reason of getting the AD was coz they are baynet, i cross thread on land underwater i dont stand a chance lol
I am not sure about the stickers you got, they may be for acrylic housings like the Canon or typical OEM housings to help shield the port lens from stray light from the interior or from the camera strobe. I do not think they have a function for your Recsea housing, could be wrong.
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NautilusCairns
Contributor
Is ghosting the same as flare?
My rig of RecseaS95 and two S2000 strobes creates ghosting if I rotate and shoot vertically with the strobes still in the same position that I had them for a landscape shot. The ghosting (flare) is especially noticable at the bottom of the frame. I just need to move the bottom strobe out to prevent this.
My rig of RecseaS95 and two S2000 strobes creates ghosting if I rotate and shoot vertically with the strobes still in the same position that I had them for a landscape shot. The ghosting (flare) is especially noticable at the bottom of the frame. I just need to move the bottom strobe out to prevent this.
I think we are talking about the same thing. You will forgive the following photo but it shows some of the ghosting in the lower left side and lower right. Most likely in this case caused by bright sunlight over head, Canon A570 with UFL165AD:
Sometimes it presents as an overall or partial loss of contrast in an otherwise decent photo. Just have to learn how to avoid it. The photo below also taken with the UFL165AD and S90 with little or no ghosting:
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