Problem fitting Inon UFL-165AD Lens to Recsea S95 Housing

[NautilusCairns]

Following the opinions on this forum I finally got my Inon UFL-165 lens,. But when I tried to fit it to my Recsea S95 housing using a Dyron M67 adapter (DY.ADJP60) and a 10 Bar adaptor ring (ADM-F67) I found that the back of the lens seems to touch the front of the port when I have the Dyron and 10 Bar adapters screwed onto the housing. I need to back off on one of the adapters to have enough room for the bayonet fitting on the lens to engage into the 10 Bar ring. Any suggestions or has anyone else had this problem?

 

[chinacat46]

I use an AD adapter I got from Blue Water Photo which connects directly to the Recsea and don't have any problems.

 

[crepitus]

I use the UFL-165AD and the same combined adaptors with a FIX S90 housing (same maker as Recsea S95). Yes, mine rubs, too. But not to worry: 1) it's the plastic bit of the lens that rubs, which protrudes beyond the glass part of the lens, which does not touch, and 2) the area of the housing port which rubs and may become scratched is very peripheral, and out of view of W/A, macro, or native lens, zooomed or not. Not ideal, but there you go. Dyron do make a new 1-piece AD adaptor DY.ADIRECS90 if you prefer:
http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/dyron/382653-recsea-dy-adirecs90-adaptor.html
Problem with backing one adaptor off is that you need to screw the other one in further to get the bayonet lined up horizontal = same distance lens to port.
- Dave

 

[NautilusCairns]

Thanks Dave. Did you get the new adaptor yourself? Does it have or need bleed holes? It looks like the way to go
- Eden

 

[BluewaterPhoto]

The adapter doesn't need bleed holes. We have one if you need one, just let me know. - Scott

 

[crepitus]

I think I will eventually get the new adaptor. Dyron is good quality. Besides, one less set of threads to accidentally loosen when you remove the lens. Until then a short strip of masking tape supplies enough "stiction" and lasts for a 2-week trip.

Mount your lens while underwater, or remove/reattach it. Bubbles are gone, no bleed holes needed.

 

[NautilusCairns]

Yes I will too. My problem with the combined adapter setup was more than a bit of rubbing. When both adapters were screwed firmly onto the front of the housing I couldn't push the lens in far enough to engage the bayonet on the 10Bar AD adapter. I guess I could have backed off enough to engage the lens, but that defeats the whole purpose of being able to easily swap AD lenses.

I think Scott means that the new Dyron adapter doesn't need "burping"

 

[NautilusCairns]

Dyron adapter DY.ADIRECS90 arrived today but when it is fitted to the housing it doesn't quite screw on far enough to allow the lens to be in the vertical position, so that the larger petals on the lens hood are on the top and bottom. It looks a little wonky being at an angle. The locking ring is not vertical as shown in the photo on the Dyron web site.

I'm sure it is supposed to fit like the photo. Anyone else with this problem?

 

[Nemrod]

The threads on the port are not indexed. I seriously doubt any two housings are identical in that regard. You will either have to adjust the hood by loosening the lens lock ring (warning, warning--danger Will Robinson) or use tape to lock the adapter a turn back.

I do not have that particular adapter but I ran into the same problem with my rig but since I made my own AD adapter, I made sure it was indexed to my port when I glued the parts together.

N

 

[NautilusCairns]

Thanks Nemrod. I think maybe it is a thread depth issue on the port as you suggest. I would be interested to get some feed back from other FixS90/Recsea S95 owners. It takes four and a quarter turns to screw on my M67 adapter if that can be used as a comparative measure.
Dyron's suggestion was to shift the hood position on the lens but I don't think that is possible on the UFL-165.
When you suggest using tape is that thread tape like plumbers use? The threads on the recsea are pretty fine