Puerto Morelos Trip Report 10/24-10/31 - Part 1

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geraldp

Contributor
Messages
406
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Location
Portland, OR
# of dives
100 - 199
Hi guys:

Here's a synopsis of our trip to the Mexican/Mayan Riviera two weeks ago (10/24-10/31).

Day 1 - Sunday: My wife and I Arrived at the Mayan Palace condo about 5PM after 20 hours of travel. Pretty exhausted. Freebie award miles from United Airlines included a redeye and 3 hops from Portland to Chicago to Charlotte, NC to Cancun. My parents had taken a much shorter trip on American Airlines via Dallas/Ft Worth, and they arrived in Cancun within an hour of us. When we checked in we got a free upgrade from the Mayan Palace to the brand new Grand Mayan condo. They had just opened up two new wings of the Grand Mayan, and they were very nice. Absolutely no Timeshare hassles at all. After checking in we went for a swim in the huge pool. Ate dinner at the restaurant on the beach (one of 4).

Monday: Recuperated from the trip. Slept in and ate a leisurely breakfast and lunch. Taxied into Playa Del Carmen to shop. I bought a double hammock. My favorite thing to do in PDC is to sit in a bar/restaurant overlooking the street and watch the people go by. We ate dinner in town.

Tuesday: Got up early and taxied myself into Puerto Morelos (about 10 minutes North of the condo). I chose to dive with Dive Puerto Morelos. Puerto Morelos is a lot closer to the Mayan Palace than Playa Del Carmen, and I had read good reviews about the dive op there. I told them I wanted to do some reef diving, wreck diving, a cenote dive, and a couple of dives over in Cozumel. We agreed on a fixed price before I came over. I met the dive shop owner, Catriona (Cat), the Dive Master, Bret (an American entrepreneur from Utah who had moved to Mexico 3 years ago), the local boat driver Vincente, and one other diver, Mark (from Ohio), who was on his first dive after OW certification. They did have a steel 100 available for me, but apparently there is no Nitrox available in Puerto Morelos. Dive Puerto Morelos is a block from the pier, and Cat drove all our gear down to the pier for us. Vincente brought the boat around: the Cisne Negro (Black Swan). The boat was about a 20 footer with a canopy to keep the sun off. The two dives we were to do that day was the "The Bridges", and "The Last Buoy" - both off of Puerto Morelos reef. The 4 of us piled in and motored out about 20 minutes to the reef. We did a back flip into the water. Mark got pretty sea sick as he geared up, and when he got in the water started hyperventilating. We floated on the surface several minutes before Mark decided he was done for the day and crawled back into the boat. Bret and I dropped down to about 50 feet, and discovered we'd drifted a ways from the site Bret was looking for. When we found the site it was a great site.. Lots of coral with 5-10 foot deep canyons and swim throughs. We saw huge schools of French Grunts, lots of parrotfish and angel fish, a couple of trunkfish, spiny lobster, and a couple of small spotted moray eels. One eel, about a foot long, was in a hole in the coral with just a bit of his head sticking out one side and a bit of his tail out the other. I was briefly tempted to tweak his tail, but decided that it was probably not the same thing as tweaking my cats tail, so I refrained. Zero current and zero surge at this site, which was nice. This dive was 59 feet max depth for 35 minutes.

After the dive we motored Mark back to the pier. Mark was very apologetic, but apparently he spent the entire time we were diving hurling over the side of the boat. The three of us then motored out to "The Last Buoy", which is simply the last buoy on the Puerto Morelos reef. This site was similar to the Bridges, but lots more reef. Lots of holes and canyons in the coral that dropped down 5-6 feet to a sandy bottom. Lots more variety of fish here, queen angelfish, damselfish, parrotfish, squirrelfish, wrasse, coney, trumptetfish, & groupers. Very colorful. At one point I was swimming through a canyon and looked over my shoulder to see I was being stalked by a barracuda. When I turned around he swam off. Found a 2-3 foot spotted moray eel who swam up to us… I assume he was just curious, as he kept close to the coral and finally swam off. A large gray angelfish kept swimming up looking for food. When Bret released air from his alternate reg the angelfish started dancing in the bubbles over our head. That was fun. I took lots of pictures. Almost no current but there was some pretty good surge so you had to be careful or you'd get smacked into the coral. Max depth for this dive was 48 feet for 49 minutes.

I taxied back to the condo and spent the afternoon out at the pool. We ate dinner at the beachside restaurant again.

Wednesday: The four of us got up early and took a tour out to the Chichen Itza ruins. We had purchased the tour from a street vendor in Playa Del Carmen on Monday. The price was pretty good, but instead of the expected 3-hour bus ride out it ended up being closer to 5 hours to get to the ruins. Our tour bus picked up several people at hotels along the way, then went all the way South to Tulum before we started heading inland. Then we headed Northwest on a gravel/dirt road for a couple of hours before we finally met up with the main East/West Cancun-Chichen Itza road. Apparently we bypassed a toll road, but paid for it by traveling on those potholes. The tour guide gave his spiel in Spanish, then followed up in English. Pretty informative, and gave us a chance to learn some more Spanish. There were two busses total (the other bus was all German & Italian) for a total of about 100 or so tourists. Finally we got to the ruins (we had a brief stop at a small village about 30 minutes before we got to the ruins). There we were delivered to a Mayan guide who spoke English fairly well. He toured us around the ruins for 1-1/2 hours, then gave us another 1-1/2 hours to tour on our own. Got some great pics from the top of the big pyramid. The weather was frightfully hot, with very high humidity. Since I'm pretty claustrophobic, I chose not to climb the inside of the pyramid - apparently it's really close and confined inside, and very hot. Finally we headed back. We stopped for lunch (dinner?) at a small town, and they fed us a buffet Mayan lunch. That was pretty good. After that we stopped at a large cenote. This was a huge cavern with a couple of holes - 1 at the very top about 100 feet above the water and 1 leading down a small, very steep cave entrance with steps carved into the floor. Inside they had built platforms for people to stand on and swim off of. We were told to bring our swim suits (which we did) but we only had 30 minutes there so we didn't bother jumping in. About a dozen or more people from our busses went swimming. As we all climbed back in the bus we were swarmed but dozens of small Mayan children wanting to sell us trinkets, postcards, etc.. They were all about 3-6 years old. They were cute but they kind of acted like a Mayan mafia if they didn't get enough pesos out of you. The final stop was to a large village called Valladolid. Our guide reported this city to have the fame of containing the oldest christian church in all of the Americas (North, South, & Central)! Frommers says that parts of the "Franciscan monastery" in Valladolid was built around 1552, so that's probably where they get their statistics. Finally we headed back… again we had to turn South on the gravel road and drive all the way to Tulum before heading back North again to our condo. We got back around 9:30PM - about a 15 hour day instead of the 11 they promised us.

As soon as we got back my wife and I went out to the poolside restaurant to meet up with two ScubaBoard members I had met online, Amelia and Kerry (amyj). They were from Ohio, and were also staying at the Mayan Palace. They were very nice folks, and it was a joy to meet them. They were diving with a different dive operation out of Playa Del Carmen, Dive Diablo. We chatted for an hour, then said goodbye and turned in.

to be continued...
 
Thursday: Today was supposed to be a 2-tank wreck/reef dive out of Puerto Morelos. I met up with another ScubaBoard couple, Gayla and Harold from the state of Washington (squarepants), who were also staying at the Mayan Palace, and we shared a taxi. Gayla and Harold were fun to dive with and it was great meeting ScubaBoard members so far away. When we got to the dive shop that morning we discovered that the waves were too choppy so we were going to do a cenote dive instead. There were a couple of other divers waiting at the shop for us. So the 6 of us plus 2 locals (Vincente and another guy with a pierced lower lip) all headed off to the cenote in a Chevy Suburban. We drove straight West out of Puerto Morelos for about an hour along a deeply rutted dirt road with extremely thick jungle on both sides. We finally came upon a hand painted sign that said "Tres Bocas Cenote" and a locked gate. We honked and waited for about 10 minutes before somebody came to let us in. The owner was an ex-American - I didn't ask him what he was doing way out there in the jungle, but he kind of looked like Tom Hanks after being stranded on a South Pacific island for 4 years in the movie Castaway. There we parked, and walked about another 1/4 mile down a narrow path cut through the jungle to the cenote. The two local guys loaded all the tanks and our gear into wheel barrows and followed us down. Tres Bocas is translated as "the three mouths", representing that this cenote has 3 openings in it - the primary one that we enter through, and two additional openings that were inaccessible. I was disappointed to find that the visibility wasn't too great - about 30-40 feet. Apparently the recent rains had muddied the waters a bit. Anyway, we switched on our lights and plunged in. The water was cool - about 75 degrees. Bret took us down to about 80 feet where we found a small opening (4' diameter) going straight down. We had been told that this was the entrance to a cave that went down to at least 110 feet to an underground river system, but since it was a true cave we weren't going down there. So we spent the next 40 minutes touring the stalagmites and stalactites in the cavern. This cenote reportedly has the longest continuous stalactite/stalagmite formation in the area. It was a little spooky, as the light from the openings completely disappeared when you went behind the stalactites. At the furthest wall from the entrance the submerged ceiling was a long way from the surface, so I really felt like I was in a cave.

I was way overweighted (I forgot that for fresh water you need to drop 4 pounds or so) and my buoyancy was really screwed up on this dive. It was basically like a night dive using lights, and unless I was next to a wall or stalactite/stalagmite my perspective was all screwed up. When we were up near the ceiling I was scared to death I was going to get skewered by one of those (very) sharp stalactites. I took a lot of pictures, but there wasn't much color down there. There were lots of mangled trees on the bottom under the openings. Max depth for this dive was 82 feet for 39 minutes, and we finished the dive with plenty of air.

That night we went to the big dinner show at the lagoon restaurant (The Del Lago). We thought it was going to be a cultural show, but it ended up being a Las Vegas style show with girls in G-strings. They had a pretty decent mariachi band. The buffet food was OK.

Friday: This was my Cozumel dive day. I took the 8:00AM ferry out of Playa Del Carmen to Cozumel. Dive Puerto Morelos had hooked me up with a dive op in Coz called Deep Blue - about 2-blocks inland from the ferry terminal. I hiked over there to sign up, then we headed back to the doc and loaded up into a small boat called Medusa (only slightly larger than the Cisne Negro). For dive partners I had two German girls who spoke fairly good English and two Italian guys who spoke almost no English but could understand some Spanish. I dove with Javier as my DM and Alvaro as the captain. The two dives we did were "Palancar Gardens" and "Chankanaab Reef". Deep Blue gave me a steel 100 for my first dive, and a Aluminum 80 for the second with 35% Nitrox. The seas were fairly rough as we motored out to Palancar. We backrolled in and dropped down to 30-40 feet, then went into a hole in the coral. The hole bottomed out at about 60 feet and we came out amongst huge coral buttresses a couple of stories tall. These coral formations were right on the edge of the wall, and we spent our dive swimming through them. The current was very slight, and we had a great dive. Not near as much fish life over here in Cozumel compared to on the Riviera Maya, but the coral formations are sure spectacular. I was disappointed that the visibility (maybe 75') was much poorer than I had remembered from my dives in Cozumel last February. Max depth on this dive was 90 feet with a bottom time of 44 minutes. When we got to the surface the captain told us there was an eagle ray swimming near us during our safety stop, but we never saw him.

During our Surface Interval we motored over to shore where we dove in to do some snorkeling. One of the Italians wasn't a diver, and this was his chance to see the corals and fish. Everybody shucked out of their wetsuits (except me, as I didn't want to get sunburned). Javier thought it was great fun to throw food into the water with us so we would get swarmed by the fish. One of the German girls got bit by some hungry jacks and sergeant majors. I was glad to have my wetsuit on, and I kept my fingers close - the fish were all about a foot long and there were hundreds of them swarming around our heads.

After our lunch/surface interval we motored out to Chankanaab Reef and went on our second tank dive. Here we dropped onto a fairly sparse reef that already held a dozen or so divers. Javier led us to a more remote area, and we soon drifted out of view of the others. This was an extremely low key dive, with the lazy current drifting us very slowly down the reef. Saw a ton of lobsters along with lots of other fishes (lots more than Palancar). Javier was trying to point something out to us in the sand, but we couldn't figure it out. Finally we saw that he was pointing at something that I think was a jawfish - little white fish about 3" long that slipped tail first into a small hole in the sand. Then they'd stick their heads out and stare at you. If you got too close they would just disappear down inside their hole. As you drifted away they'd come all the way out and go foraging for food. That was kind of neat - hope the pictures come out. This was the only dive that I was given Nitrox. I was glad to get a little less Nitrogen in my mix. I was disappointed I didn't see any turtles, toadfish, or rays on this dive, but the Chankanaab Reef was fairly sparse. It looked like it was pretty beat up - either from lots of divers kicking it or from recent storms. Anyway, I got 59 minutes of bottom time on this dive with a max depth of 49 feet.

So we headed back to the dive shop, and I was able to catch the 2PM ferry back to Playa Del Carmen. I got back to the condo by 3:15 where I cleaned my gear and showered, then spent the rest of the afternoon out at the pool. We ate dinner that night in the condo - the room service was pretty good.

Saturday: Today was make-up day for the wreck/reef dive we missed on Thursday. Sometime in the middle of the night I woke up feeling really cruddy, and decided that I was going to have to miss diving for the day. So I got myself up and met squarepants and Harold out at the lobby around 7:15AM and told them to taxi over without me. That really ticked me off because I was really looking forward to diving the wreck - an old Mexican minesweeper (formerly of the U.S. Navy). Apparently she still has her guns on her. I felt really rotten, and spent most of the morning sleeping. I was pretty feverish. Around 2PM I felt a little better and the four of us taxied up to Puerto Morelos to explore the town. Cat reimbursed me for the 2-tanks that I had missed, and we went on a shopping tour. Puerto Morelos is MUCH lower key than Playa Del Carmen, and you didn't have hawkers all over you trying to get you into their stores. I bought a sisal hammock chair to go with my hammock. Everybody we met were extremely friendly - Puerto Morelos has a population of about 700. Very low key. By that time I was feeling pretty cruddy again, so we taxied back to the condo, and I slept until late that evening where I finally got up and started helping pack for the trip home.

Sunday: Going home day. Got up and taxied to the airport for the trip home. An airline attendant got sick and we had a 4 hour delay as they flew in a replacement from Miami. We only had a 2-hour layover in Washington Dulles, so we missed our connection and had to spend the night in Northern Virginia. At least United paid for everything. We didn't get back until 2PM Monday.

Overall it was a great trip. I only got in 5 dives (instead of the 7 I had planned) but I saw some great stuff. Next time I'll space my dives out to every other day - it was overtaxing to plan something every day, and my wife didn't appreciate me being gone most of the time. I'll also see if I can finagle at least 10 days instead of 7, as 7 wasn't long enough to do everything we wanted.

Jerry
 
Nice report! I'll be there in only 16 days, 20 hours and 3 minutes but who's counting. It is cool that you got to hook up with other SB members. Did you post in the Mexico forum to see who else was going at the same time? I think you suggested Dive Puerto Morelos in my post about PDC dive ops but I think we're going to stick with one in PDC. We have our mind set to go to Tortugas reef so we'll have to check out Puerto Morelos next time.

I look forward to seeing your pictures.
 
jbone9:
Nice report! I'll be there in only 16 days, 20 hours and 3 minutes but who's counting. It is cool that you got to hook up with other SB members. Did you post in the Mexico forum to see who else was going at the same time? I think you suggested Dive Puerto Morelos in my post about PDC dive ops but I think we're going to stick with one in PDC. We have our mind set to go to Tortugas reef so we'll have to check out Puerto Morelos next time.

I look forward to seeing your pictures.
Thanks. I think I found AmyJ and Squarepants because they had both posted that they'd be there, and I responded with "Me Too!". It is fun to hook up with other SB members.

The Tortugas dive is great - you will really enjoy it. I'm still waiting to hear from AmyJ for her trip report from diving in PDC (Hi Amelia!).

Some of my pics came out really nice. I'll have to figure out how to post pics to the SB Gallery. Embedding pics into a SB Message requires that you really cut the resolution.

Jerry
 

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