Question about a scuba tank

[phenom]

Hey guys, I'm a new diver and I have recently bought all my gear brand new. (besides the tank) Recently I decided that diving a rental tank can be quite a pain in the butt because I have to worry about bringing it back on time and I have to fill out the paperwork and they take your credit card info in case you don't bring it back blah blah blah. While I understand it is economical unless you are diving a bit more I simply prefer to buy my own tank. This guy I know has retired from diving and I can pretty much get his tank for next to nothing cost wise. It needs to be hydro'd/inspected but it seems like a much cheaper solution than buying a new tank. I don't know what the numbers/letters on the tank are but judging from the markings I think its made in 1993. Would this be a good tank to get hydro'd/inspected? or do you think its no good? its in very good condition, the last inspection seems to be in 2005 but it has been stored with air still in it to prevent corrosion ect. To me it seems like a very valid option. Can anyone tell me what the markings on the top of the tank mean, who the manufacturer is, and if the year is really 1993? Thanks in advance for advice!

Here are some pictures to look at. Sorry I don't have anything better picture wise at the very moment. but i had seemed to get a good zoom-in from my computer if I click on the picture save it and then open it back up via windows photo gallery or something of that nature.

 

[tstormdiver]

If the cylinder passes hydro, it should be good to use. You won't know until you get it tested. If the facility that hydro tests the cylinder does not also do visuals, you will also need to have that done at an LDS. The pictures are not good enough to read the markings on the cylinder.The markings are typically DOT & its Canadian counterpart numbers. It appears to be an aluminum cylinder (flat bottom), so there should be an AL somewhere to confirm it. Typically there is also the working pressure number (typically 3000) marked on it. There should be a seial #, the manufacturer & the hydro dates usually XX (some sort of symbol)XX & pehaps the cubic ft size of the cylinder.

 

[Peter_C]

It should say the brand on the top of it. Some older aluminum tanks...well we would need to know the brand before condemning them.

If you can, steel tanks are better for backmount diving. Aluminum singles work great as stage bottles. A steel tank is negative at the end of the dive vs an aluminum tank that you now have to carry more weight to offset it's buoyancy. You are probably going to want two tanks too.

 

[Dive the World]

Welcome to the 70% of the world

How to Read the Labels on Dive Cylinders | eHow.com

The above link should give you enough info to read the label.

Rest I think has been covered by Tstorm n Peter.

You are a new diver and i am a big fan of used stuff for new divers - as long as it is safe.

If it is manufactured in 1993 - it is pretty much 20 years old - thats ok; if it passes hydrolic you could get another 4-5 years out of it.

I would like to point out that even tough it may pass Hydro - does not mean it will get O2 cleaned. But you don't have to worry about that right now.

If it doesn't pass hydro - you loose whatever you paid for it. From the pic - it looks like it has been taken care of.

You said the diver is retiring - ask if he will donate the tanks to you - circle of life. No harm in asking.

My first two tanks were for free - one each from individuals I know.

Enjoy

 

[herman]

Nothing at all wrong with older tanks as long as they will pass hydro and vis. There is some bad info floating around about older aluminum tanks but bottom line is if it's later than 90 it's a non issue.

I disagree with Pete on steels being better than aluminums. Contrary to what a lot will tell you, steels are not always better. For me, steels, even 72s overweight me with just the tanks alone, for proper weighting in warm fresh water I have to use AL tanks. So what if I need to wear a couple of extra pounds of weight when diving with more thermal protection, a few pounds of lead cost a lot less than the differential cost you will pay for steel and you don't have the option to remove the weight if you want to. Then there is cost. For new tanks, steels are about twice what an equivalent al tank cost. If you need more than one, the extra cost of steel tanks can be huge. For larger volume tanks or if you always need to add weight, then steels are an advantage but a general statement that they are "better" is not always the case.

 

[windapp]

It costs $59.00 to clean,hydro, and visual a tank at my LDS. I haven't seen a used tank for less than $50. That brings the total to $109.00, and you don't even know if it is going to pass. I can buy an up-to-date used AL80 at my LDS for $125.00, and new for $190. For AL80s, I see no point to buying used from someone else.

 

[oly5050user]

I sold a brand new one, complete with visual and filled for $150. last Friday at the LDS I teach out of.

 

[electrix]

$150 for a new Al80 at my LDS plus 20 free air fills

 

[TXreefer]

$150 for a new Al80 at my LDS plus 20 free air fills

Which LDS? Maybe I can get mine to match it!

 

[windapp]

I got free air fills until the end of the year, and a discount on visuals, and fills once the year is up.