Question about dive computers

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Congrats on joining the underwater world. Im new too. I would only say one thing. Ive already in my first year and a half upgraded EVERYTHING. I got a cheap zoop novo and its impossible to work with. hard to figure out etc. In my novice opinion get a very nice computer its your most important long term investment. Get an air integrated computer. that is easy to navigate around in and is EASY to read underwater usually multi color and expensive.

Buy equipment you will never need to upgrade. Unless you cant afford it then get what you can afford.
I really suggest the opposite, as OW you will not know what you need and will have to change.if you buy something expensive you will still probably get something you will change and have lost even more money.

Buy something decent off EBay or second hand somewhere else so you can resell at nearly same value. After a bit more time you will know what you need.
 
Air integration is a nice feature and I enjoy the fact that my Vyper Air presents me with my tank pressure and air time remaining along with my no-deco time and other info on my wrist...but I only have this computer because a fellow club member purchased it and quickly found (after 11 dives) that it was not compatible with his eyesight so he purchased another computer with a larger display and offered this one to me with the transmitter at a price I could not pass on (150 euros for the set). Before that I was using a regular Vyper with an SPG (I still dive with the SPG). I would not pay for or advise paying for the ridiculous cost of this feature as the cost, to me, is much higher than it is worth, but if you can get a screaming deal on one then it is a nice and novel feature to have.

-Z
 
I would concur with @Zef above

I've always been a proponent of AI, and I do like it. That said like Zef I keep an SPG on all my regs any way

I've so far resisted putting Transmitters on my SM kit for my Perdix, but like all my other gear they have the QD connectors in case I change my mind.

There have been maybe 50 dives when having the info on my wrist has been a distinct advantage - generally when I've been hanging on to a rock in current. But mostly I only need to look at my air a couple of times through the dive to confirm if its where I expect it to be.

When teaching or guiding I always use my SPG to set an example.

When my Transmitters for my Eo were away for repair, I really didn't miss them.

It's a nice to have for sure but not an essential.
 
-snip-
I've so far resisted putting Transmitters on my SM kit for my Perdix, but like all my other gear they have the QD connectors in case I change my mind.
-snip-
What HP QDs are you using? Issues, quirks, serviceability?

I like the concept for transmitter protection and ease of packing, but haven't seen much for the HP side other than brand-specific console disconnects.
 
I use the Scubapro QD fitting which is a compact screw type fitted to a 6" hose. The Suunto QD is a larger Bayonet fitting.

All my reg sets are fitted with a 6" hose and female end so that I can easily move my transmitters around, or if I'm teaching in the pool, remove them to save battery life)

I personally use a HP spool between the transmitter and the QD as an extra layer of protection. I've had a transmitter O ring extrude once (although it would of done the same if screwed directly into the first stage).

The only maintenance I do is to clean the QD threads occasionally, and check the hoses for leaks - pretty standard stuff

Day to day they stay on my regs teh hose gives enough protection. If I'm flying they come off and go in a small padded camera bag as an extra precaution. Other than that I've had no issued in 4 years.

The 6" hose does seem to have the advantage of moving the transmitter to one side. I've never experienced a loss of signal, whether that's because of the hose of the fact that the Suunto Eon Pod works well I don't know.
 
Thanks @Diving Dubai!

Ok, that Suunto is huge! Errr ... no.


I found some pics of the ScubaPro:

scubapro-high-preasure-quick_1_3d4af881aab8979ada0d160dcc9ad1f0.jpg
Cap in "factory" position to protect threads?

scubapro-high-preasure-quick_1_3d4af881aab8979ada0d160dcc9ad1f0.jpg
Installed and disconnected position?

Am I correct that the left-side piece threads into the Upstream/1st stage side (directly into 1st-stage HP port or far end of hose) and the right hand piece plugs into the Downstream side for the gauge/transmitter/extension hose depending on setup?

Is the Upstream side self-sealing so that it can be run without the Downstream section?
 
All my reg sets are fitted with a 6" hose and female end so that I can easily move my transmitters around, or if I'm teaching in the pool, remove them to save battery life)

I have my transmitter on a 6" hose as well. question for you...do you remove the hose and replace the HP port plug in the 1st stage body when you remove for for pool work? or do you remove the transmitter from the hose and somehow plug the end of the hose? I have not tested it but I was told that without a spool, screwing a port plug into the end of the hose will not seal it and a spool would interfere with the fit of a port plug.

Just curios what you are doing as I would like to install hoses on my other regulator sets semi-permanently and just move the transmitter between the hoses...but still need the hose to be functional if my wife or kids are using it without the transmitter. I would rather plug/unplug the end of the hose if possible than the regulator body as the stainless steel end of the hose is much more durable and less likely to get manked up than the brass regulator body and threads.

-Z
 
What HP QDs are you using? Issues, quirks, serviceability?

I like the concept for transmitter protection and ease of packing, but haven't seen much for the HP side other than brand-specific console disconnects.
Most of the gadget and accessory companies, such as XS, Innovative, Trident, have HP QD available for standard fittings.
Example:
HP Hose QD Adapter
 
Hi @-JD-

Yes You're correct, The capped side fits on the upstream side (1st stage or hose) The cap is about as much use as a chocolate fireguard, it's there to keep the mating end "protected" it doesn't cover the threads .

The Upstream is self sealing via ball valve and the transmitter side has a pin that opens the valve by pushing the ball.

The Transmitter side is a left hand thread as opposed to the normal right hand. It does have an arrow pointing which way to turn but muscle memory often takes over.

For Pony's, Stages and Deco cylinders, I don't use the 6" hose, instead I used a honger HP hose that routes the transmitter more neatly along the side of the cylinder.

Hope that helps
 
I have my transmitter on a 6" hose as well. question for you...do you remove the hose and replace the HP port plug in the 1st stage body when you remove for for pool work? or do you remove the transmitter from the hose and somehow plug the end of the hose? I have not tested it but I was told that without a spool, screwing a port plug into the end of the hose will not seal it and a spool would interfere with the fit of a port plug.

My Scubapro QD is self sealing so I just remove the Transmitter with no plugs required. @-JD- posted a pic above of the QD I use.

The coupleign is very hard wearing, I've had mine for 4 years and often use it without the transmitter I rarely put the plastic cap on (or it pops off) I've had no damage to the hose end nor and water damage to my 1st stage
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

Back
Top Bottom