Rix SA-6 Parts

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

The 4V is also oil free but to be fair it does use a fair amount tea to get it going in a morning. (It's an English thing some may have difficulty understanding LOL)
I did enjoy the photo of 5 cups of tea. One of our instructors spent a bit of time in England I believe it was, when he was a youth. He would regale me with many stories as we were going through a bit of kit, before our dives! Coffee for me as I am simply an untraveled American. (Sorry)

Also in that brochure. In the center column it states: "The humid air that is produced by the RIX SA compressors eliminates the uncomfortable "dry throat" caused by breathing completely dry air."

I would be positively happy to be the one to show up at DEMA for 5 days and represent the new line of HU-2.9 and HU-5.9 (Humid air???) compressors!!! And all the other days of the year.

Wow, I just looked. There is a huge difference in price here in the US between the MCH6 and the Oceanus. $2200 or $7500.
 
Also in that brochure. In the center column it states: "The humid air that is produced by the RIX SA compressors eliminates the uncomfortable "dry throat" caused by breathing completely dry air."

And murders poor innocent steel tanks, lol
 
Do you have any pictures of the pistons out (and assembled)?
Whatever you need no problem


IMG_9580.JPG
 
Just thought you asked for a photo with the piston out not off.
So to avoid confusion when servicing. You should keep the piston rod locked on the head
DONT REMOVE IT

IMG_9581.JPG
 
Whatever you need no problem


View attachment 762521
Beautiful, thank you. I think that's the 2nd stage?

edit: with your fingers in the 2nd pic I answered this myself.. it's the 2nd, lol

Just thought you asked for a photo with the piston out not off.
So to avoid confusion when servicing. You should keep the piston rod locked on the head
DONT REMOVE IT

View attachment 762523
Yes Sir, I have read that note numerous times. I just need to replace my rings, riders, and expansion o rings.

If it's dirty should I clean it... and what do you suggest cleaning it with? Just plain jane soapy water?
 
When re fitting a freshly re run piston don't just ram it into the block.
Look carefully at the photo and make sure the expanded teflon piston ring or its leading edge (the sharp edge) isn't extruded out to one side or the leading edge lip folded out. Center it up before inserting
If in doubt ask your wives for further advise.



IMG_6742.jpeg
 
When re fitting a freshly re run piston don't just ram it into the block.
Look carefully at the photo and make sure the expanded teflon piston ring or its leading edge (the sharp edge) isn't extruded out to one side or the leading edge lip folded out. Center it up before inserting
If in doubt ask your wives for further advise.



View attachment 762527
Great pics..

Should I clean it while at it? That I can ask my wife to help with:)

On 2nd thought... she doesn't know about the compressor yet... might want to take care of that myself :rofl3:
 
When re fitting a freshly re run piston don't just ram it into the block.
Look carefully at the photo and make sure the expanded teflon piston ring or its leading edge (the sharp edge) isn't extruded out to one side or the leading edge lip folded out. Center it up before inserting
If in doubt ask your wives for further advise.



View attachment 762527
You just get the brass part in the hole and then drive it home with a hammer right?

Obviously with a block of wood so you don't mar the steel. I am a professional after all.
 
You just get the brass part in the hole and then drive it home with a hammer right?

Obviously with a block of wood so you don't mar the steel. I am a professional after all.

Capture.PNG
 
And murders poor innocent steel tanks, lol
I know I know. But the SEAL team units that were the original purchase users of these compressors had scant regard for additional filtration due to operational necessity and used either Aluminium of Inconel cylinders. Other SF units in our neck of the world use plastic lined fibre wrap 300 bar cylinders.
Further apart from training purposes the requirement to return these cylinder for a "Cave Fill" back at the local dive shop after use is in our terms of probability highly unlikely.

On the other hand SF in the colder climes of Europe had there own little "Bothy" to fill cylinders in
I think I need clearance to post those photos due to NDA agreements.

However if you want filters on your SA6 no problem. its our pleasure. Here's one I built earlier out of my NDA time frame.

HSM 01.2011 046.jpeg
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

Back
Top Bottom