Specific wrist mounted computer questions

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The USB cable/connection to my laptop is VERY EASY and has never been a problem. The cable is expensive, so consider that in your purchase price. I think it shares a cable with another computer (different branding), and can be purchased cheaper than the GEO branded one. I use SubSurface for Windows, and it works great.

I've never had a problem with the 24 dive storage limit, but your behavior might be different. I travel with my computer, so even at 4 dives/day, I won't go 6 days without downloading my data.

I use Subsurface for linux on my desktop and laptops, Subsurface for android on my phones and tablet. Today it works fine to do download in Android to the phone/tablet so I don't need to bring a laptop anymore. I agree that 24 dives would not be any problem.
 
I have not seen any divecomputer produced the last 5 years that do not handle nitrox, do they make them anymore?

I'd be surprised but you might still find a secondhand one?

I think all of the ones on OP's list are multi-gas w/ 100% O2 support, at this point single gas w/ up to 50% O2 are either under $200 or their vendor didn't get the memo.
 
We ended up getting Aqualung i300C - which has bluetooth. It's a start, we'll just have to try it out!

Thanks for all the help!
 
I would suggest that you can find the user manual for EVERY diver computer, free, online. If you are interested in a computer, read the tedious fine print in the boring manual. It will give you some idea of how confusing it might be to operate or read that computer, and inevitably it will show you there is some unexpected bonus feature, or some simple one omitted.

Yes, this is time consuming. But better than buying a computer and finding out something like, if I swing my arms and fool the computer into thinking it was an excessively fast ascent, the computer will lock out for 48 hours.
 
I have an old Oceanic that had no auto on. So they did exist

Just because it has a feature doesn't mean it is easy to use. The old Oceanic I have you can't work it without the manual. I have a Hollis DG01 that is even worse. Thankfully the Hollis is set for a basic depth and timer for backup on tech dives. The Oceanic is backup for recreational dives. But the Oceanic has an oddball thing where if you don't set the Nitrox just before you enter the water it goes into panic mode and sets limits based on the worst possible conditions (79% nitrogen, 50% oxygen, and that ain't possible but it is the failsafe).

OK, I am going to be that guy, have you looked at a Shearwater yet? The basic one is not air integrated. They are real easy to use. Easy to save logs. They will do full tech diving, but have a nice recreational screen as well. Easy to set Nitrox, get two tanks that are a little off from each other and program them both in and when you switch tanks you just go to the other preprogrammed mix. 2 buttons, easy to cycle through menus. Rock solid with the best customer support in the industry. It will never lock you out for doing something. You can adjust the surface interval, which is nice when you know you are close to the boat but not sure where it is and do a quick pop up to get your bearings and go back down to finish your dive. Or when you first hit the water and do a quick buoyancy check to make sure you are heavy enough, or if your buddy needs to surface again to add a couple of pounds or clear something. You can set the minimum time before it starts counting it as a second dive. You will never out grow it. If you ever find yourself thinking about a tech dive later, it will still work for you. Future updates are free. Software is free. Other companies have been known to charge extra for a download cable, and again for the logging software, and buy a new one with updated software. And battery, any run of the mill AA battery will do and it is user serviceable. No needing a watch battery while on some remote island, no needing a charge cable.
 

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