Tank questions - LP, HP, + and advice for me.

[Vicente]

Personally I look at "size" also on my tanks, in real dimensions. I like to run trim and lean so the diameter of some of the larger LP tanks gives me pause.

I hold to the opinion though that diving technique matters much more than the tank. After enough dives, and a few courses where I learned about streamlining my gear, my air consumption went way down. I never recommend people to buy a monster tank that later they will have less need for.

 

[pescador775]

Vincente, well said. I've always been alert to gear profiles and streamlining. Not just us, Jim Grier, the well known Scuba gear analyst, tested "wings" against a STAB jacket and found that he could swim a couple tenths faster with the wings. He traced the difference to a fold of loose material behind the nape of the neck which created drag. I don't use wings but I sure as heck keep an eye out for the dreaded drag-nape. I use 6.9, 3000 psi steel tanks, small gauges, streamlined back inflate BC with everything tucked and secured. No surprise, a slick downed rig is easy to swim. My buddy is fairly new to diving and uses a setup recommended (and sold) to him by the LDS. He billows like a parachute. I've explained my philosophy but he has a substantial investment of new gear so won't rub it in.

 

[ageddiver]

Personally I look at "size" also on my tanks, in real dimensions. I like to run trim and lean so the diameter of some of the larger LP tanks gives me pause.

I hold to the opinion though that diving technique matters much more than the tank. After enough dives, and a few courses where I learned about streamlining my gear, my air consumption went way down. I never recommend people to buy a monster tank that later they will have less need for.

To a certain point you're right. For example, if all you're going to do is a single long dive within recreational limits, then why not double up a pair of steel 72's? They're very cheap and very streamlined. You've got 140cu. ft. of gas minimum, and with a manifold all the redundancy you'll need. But when you start going deeper you'll need mix and more gas. Again, if you're mixing yourself at home the LP tanks have a big advantage. 100's (either HP or LP) will do most people fine for volume (using a good technique) to around 200ft or so. But I don't care how good your technique is when you go below 250ft. (and want to do a real dive - not a bounce) you're going to need a lot of gas - think high capacity tanks.

To the original poster: with only 35 dives, IMO you should not be investing in doubles yet anyway. If you'd like more air, go buy a HP100 and get some diving experience. Just because you passed those courses doesn't make you a good diver, experience does that. Have fun doing recreational stuff for a couple of seasons, then if you still want to go tech you can buy another matching tank and all the rest of the huge amount of gear you'll need (and training) to go tech.

 

[in_cavediver]

Personally I look at "size" also on my tanks, in real dimensions. I like to run trim and lean so the diameter of some of the larger LP tanks gives me pause.

I hold to the opinion though that diving technique matters much more than the tank. After enough dives, and a few courses where I learned about streamlining my gear, my air consumption went way down. I never recommend people to buy a monster tank that later they will have less need for.

Excellent Advice. I seriously doubt anyone who picks up a HP 100, LP 85 or similar would be upset at having a bit more gas. For a single tank, it can be better than an al 80 in many cases. Now, start doubling some of the larger LP 8" tanks and wieght starts to become an issue. There, the difference between 100's and 130's can be significant.

Then again, some of out there want to most we can get and still handle comfortably underwater.