It was my second trip to Komodo. My first trip was a liveaboard with the Mona Lisa (only North and central Komodo) in July 2009. Tha Manguana has the ame owner as Mona Lisa.
Itinerary
North-Komodo, West-Komodo, South-Komodo, South Rinca and then up to north and central Komodo. During our trip from West-Komodo to South Rinca (6days) we didnt see any other liveaboards. Most other liveaboards offer only North-Komodo, central Komodo and south Rinca.
Boat
Although the Manguana is named as more luxuary then Mona Lisa, I preferred the Mona Lisa. The Manguana is a coverted boat from Sulswesi without masts. Cabins are above deck. Rooms are relatively small but clean with AC, shower and toilet but no sinks. I think this is a little disadvantage. If you want to wash your hands you have to go to your room and use the tap in the shower. Above at the dinner area there are no taps. The area to put your divegear is relatively small.
Crew
Nice and helpful
Food
OK. Breakfast was always the same: eggs, sausages, toast, pancakes. Lunch and dinner: different plates with meat, fish, vegetables, potatoes, rice. The range of dishes was perhaps a little limited. After 5 days the cook started again with the menu of day one.
Equipment
I rented my equipment. That said, this is the last time. I have had a lot of problems with this equipment. At my first night dive my airvalve of my BCD got broken. So it was impossible to balance in the water. Luckily it was not so deep (15m). So I tried to ascend and broke off my dive. The day after I got another BCDjacket and we were diving at Castle rock. Same thing happened at 30m. With the help of my buddy I ascended again. In a ripping current was this not so easy. I was really angry because I could have been involved in serious problems. Earrings of tanks blasted several times during our trip to the divesite. It happened me once at the Cauldron at 18m. I had to stop my dive and ascend . I hope you understand that after a couple of days my confidence in this equipment was not great anymore. I am experienced, even in good condidtion but there are limits When at the end of the trip I refused to pay the full amount for the rental of equipment, the owner answered that I had to pay the 100% and if I was not pleased I didn have to pay a tip for the crew. I have never heard such a cheap answer. As owner he is responsible for his equipment.
Diveguides
There were 2 diveguides. They knew well the northern and central divesites but knew less of the western and southern sites. Of course this is normal as this itnenarary is done less frequent. A couple of times we had a completely wrong briefing and were dropped at the wrong place. Middle in the blue with no reef in sight. After a couple of days the diveguides decided to check first the currents. That helped .
Highlights
Of course it was all about the diving and this was not disappointing!
Castle rock (North-Komodo)
It is still one of the top sites. During our trip we did 2 dives here. In 2009 I was there in July and viz was better in that period (30m) and I saw then a lot of sharks and dolphins (together). Really amazing! This time viz was maximum 20m. But I saw now a lot of white tips, no dolphins but big school of fishes, thousand neofusilliers, a lot of giant trevallys, big school of sweetlips . But a lot of current. Some moments we had to shelter behind a big rock to look the spectacle.
Batu belong (North-central Komodo)
Also 2 dives. Very colourfull reef with a lot of fish. I saw a seasnake, several turtles, napoleon wrasse, white tips, dog tooth tunas, a huge scrubbled pufferfish. We entered at the southern side and tried to reach the northern side. Is was really tough because current was very strong.
Karang Makassar (central Komodo)
Last time (in July 2009) I saw only one manta. This time we did 2 dives and there were at least 15 different mantas. It looked like an approach route of airplanes.
Wainilu (central Komodo)
One day dive and one nightdive. Although mostly dead coral this is an interesting place to see critters and its almost a kindergarden of the Komodo reefs. I saw juvenile barramundi cod, walking frogfishes, bicolor parrotfish, juvenile angelfishes, different types of scorpionfishes, rare nudibranches.
Nisa Island (West-Komodo)
A big rock in the sea. This was a terrific place (equals at least Castle rock and Batu Belong) with tons of fish. We were drifting and during at least 10 minutes I couldnt see my divebuddies anymore. It was one pink cloud of fish with white tips patrolling. I saw also a very (very) big octopus.
Lankoi rock (South-Komodo)
Most southern and western point of Komodo. Very dramatic underwater landscape like underwatermountains with canyons without much corals. Top of these mountains is about -8m.
End of the world (South Komodo)
Strongest current (even downcurrents) of my divetrip in Komodo. Big schools of trevallies, fusiliers but also nice nudibranches on the walls. That brings me to the point that handle a camera (I am filming) was sometimes really difficult.
Cannibal rock
Indeed one of the bests. I did 3 dives (morning, afternoon and night). It is really a fairy tale garden with beautyfull and colourfull soft corals and sea apples like Christmas tree decoration but as big as a football. Nudibranches, frogfishes etc.
Conclusion
Komodo is still a top place for diving (altough most popular places like Castle rock, Batu Belong and Makassar can be a little busy). Komodo is a protected area but I saw (at night) al least 30 boats (squidfishing). Crew tols that there is one patrolling boat but this one was broken. Boat was OK but I was disappointed by the unfriendly attitude of the owner towards his customers. Next time I will try probably another one. But first to Raja Ampat!
Itinerary
North-Komodo, West-Komodo, South-Komodo, South Rinca and then up to north and central Komodo. During our trip from West-Komodo to South Rinca (6days) we didnt see any other liveaboards. Most other liveaboards offer only North-Komodo, central Komodo and south Rinca.
Boat
Although the Manguana is named as more luxuary then Mona Lisa, I preferred the Mona Lisa. The Manguana is a coverted boat from Sulswesi without masts. Cabins are above deck. Rooms are relatively small but clean with AC, shower and toilet but no sinks. I think this is a little disadvantage. If you want to wash your hands you have to go to your room and use the tap in the shower. Above at the dinner area there are no taps. The area to put your divegear is relatively small.
Crew
Nice and helpful
Food
OK. Breakfast was always the same: eggs, sausages, toast, pancakes. Lunch and dinner: different plates with meat, fish, vegetables, potatoes, rice. The range of dishes was perhaps a little limited. After 5 days the cook started again with the menu of day one.
Equipment
I rented my equipment. That said, this is the last time. I have had a lot of problems with this equipment. At my first night dive my airvalve of my BCD got broken. So it was impossible to balance in the water. Luckily it was not so deep (15m). So I tried to ascend and broke off my dive. The day after I got another BCDjacket and we were diving at Castle rock. Same thing happened at 30m. With the help of my buddy I ascended again. In a ripping current was this not so easy. I was really angry because I could have been involved in serious problems. Earrings of tanks blasted several times during our trip to the divesite. It happened me once at the Cauldron at 18m. I had to stop my dive and ascend . I hope you understand that after a couple of days my confidence in this equipment was not great anymore. I am experienced, even in good condidtion but there are limits When at the end of the trip I refused to pay the full amount for the rental of equipment, the owner answered that I had to pay the 100% and if I was not pleased I didn have to pay a tip for the crew. I have never heard such a cheap answer. As owner he is responsible for his equipment.
Diveguides
There were 2 diveguides. They knew well the northern and central divesites but knew less of the western and southern sites. Of course this is normal as this itnenarary is done less frequent. A couple of times we had a completely wrong briefing and were dropped at the wrong place. Middle in the blue with no reef in sight. After a couple of days the diveguides decided to check first the currents. That helped .
Highlights
Of course it was all about the diving and this was not disappointing!
Castle rock (North-Komodo)
It is still one of the top sites. During our trip we did 2 dives here. In 2009 I was there in July and viz was better in that period (30m) and I saw then a lot of sharks and dolphins (together). Really amazing! This time viz was maximum 20m. But I saw now a lot of white tips, no dolphins but big school of fishes, thousand neofusilliers, a lot of giant trevallys, big school of sweetlips . But a lot of current. Some moments we had to shelter behind a big rock to look the spectacle.
Batu belong (North-central Komodo)
Also 2 dives. Very colourfull reef with a lot of fish. I saw a seasnake, several turtles, napoleon wrasse, white tips, dog tooth tunas, a huge scrubbled pufferfish. We entered at the southern side and tried to reach the northern side. Is was really tough because current was very strong.
Karang Makassar (central Komodo)
Last time (in July 2009) I saw only one manta. This time we did 2 dives and there were at least 15 different mantas. It looked like an approach route of airplanes.
Wainilu (central Komodo)
One day dive and one nightdive. Although mostly dead coral this is an interesting place to see critters and its almost a kindergarden of the Komodo reefs. I saw juvenile barramundi cod, walking frogfishes, bicolor parrotfish, juvenile angelfishes, different types of scorpionfishes, rare nudibranches.
Nisa Island (West-Komodo)
A big rock in the sea. This was a terrific place (equals at least Castle rock and Batu Belong) with tons of fish. We were drifting and during at least 10 minutes I couldnt see my divebuddies anymore. It was one pink cloud of fish with white tips patrolling. I saw also a very (very) big octopus.
Lankoi rock (South-Komodo)
Most southern and western point of Komodo. Very dramatic underwater landscape like underwatermountains with canyons without much corals. Top of these mountains is about -8m.
End of the world (South Komodo)
Strongest current (even downcurrents) of my divetrip in Komodo. Big schools of trevallies, fusiliers but also nice nudibranches on the walls. That brings me to the point that handle a camera (I am filming) was sometimes really difficult.
Cannibal rock
Indeed one of the bests. I did 3 dives (morning, afternoon and night). It is really a fairy tale garden with beautyfull and colourfull soft corals and sea apples like Christmas tree decoration but as big as a football. Nudibranches, frogfishes etc.
Conclusion
Komodo is still a top place for diving (altough most popular places like Castle rock, Batu Belong and Makassar can be a little busy). Komodo is a protected area but I saw (at night) al least 30 boats (squidfishing). Crew tols that there is one patrolling boat but this one was broken. Boat was OK but I was disappointed by the unfriendly attitude of the owner towards his customers. Next time I will try probably another one. But first to Raja Ampat!
