Which BC for less than $300??
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victorzamora
Contributor
This again? Awesome. Like has been said before, an alu or soft-plated BPW isn't super negative. I think my bpw was like .5# or 1# negative. I didn't have a 6mm SS bpw with weight plates. In warm, fresh water I used no weights even with alu tanks. Even with a 3/2 shorty on I'd throw a 2# on just to make sure I wasn't underweight. Travelling to warm water MAKES SENSE for the BPW diver. If you don't need weight (or much weight) then there's no need for integrated weight pockets. Jackets are often heavier for travel, AND they're positively buoyant in the water. That might REQUIRE weight to be added. BPWs also pack flatter than most jacket-style BCs...even the "Travel" ones. So, if you're looking for an all-out TINY and FEATHERWEIGHT BC, a travel BPW is the way to go. If you're looking for the best combination of stability, weight, size, and adjustability, BPW is the way to go.
A BPW doesn't make you extremely negative. Even if the OP dives and is 2# negative with an empty ally, anybody should be able to swim that up. In salt, even with a shorty....who here is negative/neutral with an ally and a jacket? A BPW will keep just a little bit of lead off of you because you don't have to compensate for all of the floaty, squishy crap on a typical jacket-style BC.
OP: If you want a jacket and have a reason for it, that's great. It's your money and it's your diving...we can't say what's right for you. However, don't let talk of "being negative" or "tech-only" keep you out of a BPW.
And I know nothing about cold water diving but I imagine its much the same regarding preference for steel; buoyancy characteristics (can drop an average of 6 lbs in weight) and size (can get more air in a smaller package for HP and over fill for LP). For most warm water divers it's probably more a preference for greater cf per size and weight. For me at 5'4" if I stretch, it's all about size.
victorzamora
Contributor
BPWs are typically neutral. They don't "ADD" 2 pounds. Most jackets are positive by about 2lbs. The one thing you've not mentioned is that most of your students are in 90F fresh water with no exposure protection. Most people in 85F+ water are in salt where they're more positive. I've not seen anyone cope with no lead on a salt dive with an ally tank.
ronscuba: Steel tanks vary greatly, but typically they're more negative in the sense that they're able to compensate for some of the fresh vs salt switch. Most Al80s are about 2-3# positive in salt while empty. Common steel tanks are 1# negative to 1# positive while empty. Going to salt adds about 4# of positive buoyancy to you. So, switching from a neutral setup in fresh with an ally to a steel in salt will add 4# for the salt switch and take off 2-4lbs for the ally to steel switch.
Even if you're diving a negative steel in fresh water in a bpw, you're still talking about being 4-6# overweight at worst. It's not awful.
Uncfnp & Victor. Thanks for the info on steel tanks.
I am one of the lucky guys. Above 80 deg ocean water, I don't use a wetsuit. I don't need any lead with an aluminum 80 using my Transpac or my aluminum plate.
No wetsuit, no additional weight, a minimalist BP/W setup, 80+ degree water.... it's great.
I am one of the lucky guys. Above 80 deg ocean water, I don't use a wetsuit. I don't need any lead with an aluminum 80 using my Transpac or my aluminum plate.
No wetsuit, no additional weight, a minimalist BP/W setup, 80+ degree water.... it's great.
GrumpyOldGuy
Contributor
I would have hoped a scuba professional would have a basic understanding of Archimedes' principle.
My brother looked at a couple of those and ended up with a Scubapro Go which is a little more, but had a few features he wanted. The goal was a travel BCD that he could dive with here in the Pac NW on occasion as well. I have to say I was impressed with it for the small size and lift, even if I'm not typically a fan of jacket BCDs. Jacket, Back Inflate, or BPW it all comes down to preference and the type of diving you want to do.
As for reg or BCD, you could argue for either. Personally I bought my reg and computer first, but it is a larger expense if you are getting an air integrated computer. Having your own BCD makes it easier to get your weighting/trim down than if you are working with a different style every time you are diving. But as someone else mentioned, renting different styles may help lead you to the BCD that is best for you. I rented for about 6 months and learned what features I did/didn't like.
As for reg or BCD, you could argue for either. Personally I bought my reg and computer first, but it is a larger expense if you are getting an air integrated computer. Having your own BCD makes it easier to get your weighting/trim down than if you are working with a different style every time you are diving. But as someone else mentioned, renting different styles may help lead you to the BCD that is best for you. I rented for about 6 months and learned what features I did/didn't like.
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