Review Seaskin Nova drysuit

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I did not get undergarments. Strikes me that dive undergarments seem like largely overpriced things when the problem of synthetic, low volume, warm active wear has been solved by many industries at a lower cost for the most part.
Their undergament is pretty cheap actually. Normal 'warm wear' for skiing and other outdoor stuff is made to be very light. You don't want that for undergarment. You need stuff that keeps dead air space around you even when somewhat compressed. The thinsulate and fleece stuff in scuba undergarment is not the same stuff they put in outdoor clothing.
 
Here is some helpful advice, seek psychological help, concentrate on peeanoia.

another bit of advice, click on my avatar at then ignore if you don’t like the tags, it’s the sites doing not mine.
Again, nothing of substance. Please stop tagging me.
 
Here are the parts of a trigon
View attachment 794794

the same mushroom valves that you have on the exhaust side of any regulator, it has the same limitations as a regulator, if the valve is fouled with something it can leak, double mushrooms on the outside and a single on the inside balancing side.
if you breath underwater with a regulator you have more of a chance of failure of your exhaust valve due to cycles than you do of this valve.
Interesting! Not a single duckbill valve, just 2 mushroom valves. I wonder why someone keeps ranting about duckbill valves failing?
 
Every dry suit diver I have spoken with in person says balanced. Berndo disagrees.
You should have asked cave divers. They're doing long dives and tend to know why they use thes stuff they use. Tinkel can be plugged and is a good option.
 
You should have asked cave divers. They're doing long dives and tend to know why they use thes stuff they use. Tinkel can be plugged and is a good option.

Buddy is an admittedly inexperienced cave diver but cave diver nonetheless. Instructor is full cave GUE guy. Not a cave instructor, but experienced.
 
Interesting! Not a single duckbill valve, just 2 mushroom valves. I wonder why someone keeps ranting about duckbill valves failing?
Same function. I kept saying duckbill because the other one way valve is also a normal check valve. Check valves fail, that's why there are maintenance kits with check valves. Had I said 'the other' check valve, people would have even had a harder time to follow. My local shop used to sell trigons. I pleny familar with them.
 
Had my Seaskin a while now and for the money it’s hard to beat. It’s thick and heavy but robust. Spec below (not sure if I’ve posted it before) and changes I’d make if I was ordering again / comments on my choices -

Black / Black

Telescopic Torso

Main Body Dry Zip Cover (Black)

YKK Plastic Drysuit Zip

Light Monkey Tinkle Balanced P-Valve - Haven’t used it. Not sure if I will but nice to have the option if my diving style ever changes. I was thinking of disconnecting the hose as it gets in the way sometimes. Not sure if it will leak as the valve is always closed?

P-Valve Hose Tidy

Siflex Quick Neck

Warm Neck Simple

SiTech Oval Cuff Rings - I’d maybe go for Kubi but I’m going to try dry gloves for the winter so will either go with Rolock or Ultima

Apeks Valves

Inflation Valve Comfort Patch - Probably not needed but was only £5 or something and can be removed as it’s just Velcro holding it on.

Tech Boot - these are really nice and are very similar to the Otter Turbo option and those on some Santi suits.

PU Crutch Reinforcement

PU Shoulder Reinforcement

40mm Braces - had to add plastic triglides to stop them slipping out of the pinch clips.

No Logos

No Reflective Tape

Change Mat Drysuit Bag Upgrade

Seaskin Braces Pocket - Never used this as I’ve pockets in my undersuit.

Bellows Pockets L&R - I’d change these to the larger Expedition Pockets as the bellows are a bit too tight for my Apeks Lifeline reel and DSMB.

The standard Miflex inflator hose is only 750mm and is a bit short for my setup. I’ll need to change it to at least 900mm.

The undersuit was not a good fit but Seaskin took it back and refunded me no questions asked - excellent customer service.

Mine also came with PU material on the knees (not Kevlar) that I didn’t order so must be standard?
 
I've only asked you one question several time which you wont answer but expect me to go over the same things again and again. I think you're arguing in bad faith and being dishonest.
Reg exhaust valves do fail. It happens. The reg is also continuously 'flushed' so this example doesn't fit.

Please stop tagging me unless you actually trying to give an honest answer or have a genuine question.
OK, you want advantages? Advantages to balanced P-valve (not just Trigon, but any balanced P-valve) is that you do not need to remember to prime it before getting wet. So you won't have to fight to get that first pee out when hose gets crushed. Might be rare, but it's a possibility.
Advantage of Trigon over LM is that it is not possible to lose blanking wheel (yes, it is rare, but I know of few cases where small hex key works its way out and people lose the wheel). Or, like has been discussed on this forum, you won't forget to open it before peeing and avoid of getting yourself wet. Both cases might be rare, but it's a possibility.
Trigon is completely hands free, LM is not.
You keep saying that Trigon might leak. Just like above, it might be rare, but it's a possibility.
As already told, Trigon can only leak if it's flushed with high pressure. Peeing will not yield that pressure. Chances of it leaking during a dive are minuscule.
So far, we have 2 possible negatives for LM and 1 for Trigon.
Are you happy with my answers?

And speaking of avoiding answers, have you ever used Trigon?
 
P-valve technical summary:

Unbalance:
  • If you always have the valve open on a dive, It isn't really functioning as a valve. You effectively have a tube from your junk to the ambient water.
  • If you aren't connecting your junk, you can isolate by closing the valve before the dive.
  • If your connection to your junk fails (even if you aren't peeing), you have a leak into your suit. Since your junk is usually lower than the suit vent valve, water will flow into your suit till you close the valve.
  • For bolt based valves, there is a risk of losing the valve and not being able to isolate.
  • If you forget to open the valve before the dive starts, but your junk is connected, you have an equalization/squeeze problem. When you open the valve water flows into the tube, towards your junk, compressing an air bubble, with a slight possibility of resulting issues from air in junk or bacteria in junk. If you pee without opening, you over pressurize the catheter and leak pee into your suit.
  • You can "charge" the tube by filling it with liquid then close the valve before the dive. Opening the valve during the dive no longer has the equalization risk. This is total optional and not required if you leave the valve open during your dive.

Balanced:
  • The outer check valve always keeps outside water out (unless it fails, then it is effectively the same as unbalance) but now you have the issue of squeeze in the system connecting your junk.
  • If you aren't connecting your junk, still no leak into your suit due to check valve.
  • If the connection to your junk fails, you don't have a leak (until you pee, LOL).
  • No risk of losing bolt. No risk of forgetting to open/close the valve as needed before the dive.
  • The inner check valve lets air flow into the tube from your suit, eliminating the squeeze.
  • Some balanced don't have the option of isolating if the check valves fail.

Unbalance is simple reliable and requires less maintenance, but you must remember to operate it correctly.

Balance is slightly more complicated and requires more maintenance. but operates automatically.

Use personal preference to select between the above advantages and disadvantages. Both are good, but they optimize for different criteria.
 

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