300 bar to 200 bar DIN adaptor?

[WD8CDH]

I have a tank with a 300 bar DIN outlet, and regulator which only has a 200 bar DIN fitting (don't get me started...).

Does anyone know of an insert or an adaptor that can make the regulator fit the deeper hole?

I am curious, what regulator do you have?

Here in the US, "200 bar" DIN fittings are very rare on regulators. The most common one that I know of is the early Poseidon Cyklon 300 which is rated for 4500psi but has the 5 thread DIN fitting commonly know now as "200 bar" or "232 bar" DIN.

I know in Europe, you can often get the same exact regulator with a choice of "200 bar" or "300 bar" DIN but we never got the options, just "300 bar".

 

[Rhone Man]

It is a Sherwood SR1, but I am reluctantly coming to the conclusion that (even though it looks quite short) is is in fact a 300 bar DIN adaptor, it is just that it is broken somehow, hence the large leakage of gas.

The giveaway was when I tested it in a 200 bar valve, and it still leaked.

Not sure if that makes me happy or not. How can a DIN adaptor "break"? Worked fine a few months back. But when I switch the regulator to yoke, it works fine, but I cannot stop it leaking with the DIN adaptor. Put me in a foul temper all weekend.

 

[Scared Silly]

Check the o-rings all the way around.

 

[redacted]

Why is this, because it won't seal and all your air will run out without you noticing the incredibly loud hiss?

Hiss!!!! What hiss? I didn't hear any hiss.

 

[widget]

It is a Sherwood SR1, but I am reluctantly coming to the conclusion that (even though it looks quite short) is is in fact a 300 bar DIN adaptor, it is just that it is broken somehow, hence the large leakage of gas.

The giveaway was when I tested it in a 200 bar valve, and it still leaked.

Not sure if that makes me happy or not. How can a DIN adaptor "break"? Worked fine a few months back. But when I switch the regulator to yoke, it works fine, but I cannot stop it leaking with the DIN adaptor. Put me in a foul temper all weekend.

Shoo, never heard of a Din adaptor "breaking", but, I guess, in life (and scuba) anything is possible, but that would be a first for me.

As someone else suggested I would first pull it apart and check all the o-rings are in good shape (and present) then reassemble and tighten things down well, we find that sometimes the adaptor is not tightened up on assembly and just a bit of "basic checking" and a nip up here and there sorts it out.

Very irritating I agree, hope you can sort it out without replacing it.

 

[raftingtigger]

I know this is a very old thread, but since I was looking for such an adapter I thought my current solution might help someone else.

I recently bought a HP 100 tank with an old 1/2" DIN valve. When I attached my primary back mount regulator (XS Scuba with OEM DIN) it wouldn't seal. Tried my secondary back mount regulator (SP MK5 with universal SP DIN kit) and it worked well, then noticed that the regulator was whistling with each breath. So I tried my other MK5 with supposedly the same DIN kit and it also leaked horribly.

It was clear that the XS Scuba DIN threads are shorter than the working SP one, so I have made a temporary fix that seems to be holding well in my garage. I put an O-ring (215 or 116 can't recall) inside the DIN valve and covered it with a SS washer (that was filed slightly to fit the inner valve diameter) and then attached the regulator. The only real issue I see is losing the pieces when the tank is filled or carried around without a valve cover.

Changing the DIN kits on the regulators isn't an option ($$$), and neither is changing the tank valve (as it is a 1/2" neck).

 

[Peter69_56]

I have found that most regulators are actually 300 BAR rated, and then just fitted with either 232 BAR K valve fittings, 232 BAR DIN or 300 BAR DIN. Check what's stamped on the reg body as compared to what is on the actual valve fitting (if K valve)

My regs have stamped on the side, 300BAR and yet they had 232 BAR K valve attachments. I simply bought 4 kits to convert them to 300 BAR regs so now they will fit a 300 BAR DIN valve, 232 BAR DIN or 232 BAR K with adapter.

 

[Itsacon]

I know this is a very old thread, but since I was looking for such an adapter I thought my current solution might help someone else.

I recently bought a HP 100 tank with an old 1/2" DIN valve. When I attached my primary back mount regulator (XS Scuba with OEM DIN) it wouldn't seal. Tried my secondary back mount regulator (SP MK5 with universal SP DIN kit) and it worked well, then noticed that the regulator was whistling with each breath. So I tried my other MK5 with supposedly the same DIN kit and it also leaked horribly.

It was clear that the XS Scuba DIN threads are shorter than the working SP one, so I have made a temporary fix that seems to be holding well in my garage. I put an O-ring (215 or 116 can't recall) inside the DIN valve and covered it with a SS washer (that was filed slightly to fit the inner valve diameter) and then attached the regulator. The only real issue I see is losing the pieces when the tank is filled or carried around without a valve cover.

Changing the DIN kits on the regulators isn't an option ($$$), and neither is changing the tank valve (as it is a 1/2" neck).

Please don't dive close to me with that suicide rig.

The reason the DIN on your reg is shorter is because it's a 200Bar DIN mount, while the tank has a 300 Bar mount. And that's because your tank can hold 300 Bar. Since your reg can't handle it, it's not supposed to fit. What you're basically doing is filing off a 110V plug so it'll fit in a 230V socket.

If you want it to fit, put a 200 Bar valve on the tank and don't fill it above 232 Bar. Adapters for this shouldn't exist. If your reg can handle 300 Bar, have it fitted with a 300 Bar mount.

 

[Peter69_56]

Please don't dive close to me with that suicide rig.

The reason the DIN on your reg is shorter is because it's a 200Bar DIN mount, while the tank has a 300 Bar mount. And that's because your tank can hold 300 Bar. Since your reg can't handle it, it's not supposed to fit. What you're basically doing is filing off a 110V plug so it'll fit in a 230V socket.

If you want it to fit, put a 200 Bar valve on the tank and don't fill it above 232 Bar. Adapters for this shouldn't exist. If your reg can handle 300 Bar, have it fitted with a 300 Bar mount.

If you cant afford to change the regulator over with the correct fittings then leave it well enough alone. I bought my DIN kits for about $75 AUD and that was an expensive kit. Most seem to sell for about $25-50 AUD. Making up a jury rig is flirting with death. If you were proposing to be my dive buddy, you wouldn't be as I don't wish to dive with someone who is jury rigging their essential gear just to save a buck. Non of us like pouring money into dive gear, but how much is your life worth? $50???????????

Either do it properly, dive with the gear you now have (with no jury rigging), or give up diving as clearly you cannot afford it.

 

[raftingtigger]

Either do it properly, dive with the gear you now have (with no jury rigging), or give up diving as clearly you cannot afford it.

Ah ha, the famous SB "you are going to die".

1. The regulators AS IS fit and work well with a standard HP 100 (service pressure 3442 psi) tank with PRO valve (DIN/yoke - has adapter). So the regulators themselves AND the number of threads that engage between the regulator and tank valve appear to be DESIGNED to handle at least 3442 psi. The tank in question has a service pressure of 3500 psi.

2. The 2 regulators that leak on the 1/2" valve tank have the DIN fitting screwed in fully, but still don't appear to bottom out. Thus they leak.

3. My fix traps a standard scuba o-ring and a ss washer in a place it cannot dislodge while in use. It might leak, but after 72 hours under pressure it hasn't yet.

4. The common scuba repair shop way to use a SP universal DIN kit on a SP MK5 is to insert a brass or SS washer between the first-stage body and the DIN kit. What I am doing here is essentially the same thing.

5. If I dive with it, the first several dives will have a completely independent air supply (SM tank). The worst failure is a large air leak from that tank. Since all DIN threads are fully engaged it is very unlikely that the first stage will part from the tank valve.

If anyone - with an engineering background, or first person experience - has something (either positive or negative) to add that is helpful.

PS, I'm not even sure a 7 thread SP DIN adapter or XS Scuba adapter is available. In any event I have one usable reg with the valve, but didn't want to use that reg because of the whistle (which has nothing to do with the tank valve) until it is fixed, nor am I running a pressure over approximately 232 BAR.