300 bar to 200 bar DIN adaptor?

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I think the 300 BAR DIN connector is just a sales gimmick now unless you happen to have an old 300 BAR valve. I don't know why anyone would want 7 threads when 5 is overkill already. It just makes the regulator stick out farther from the valve for no good reason. I would use all 200 BAR connectors if I could find ones that would work on all of my regulators and valves.

When Scubapro replaced my CPSC recalled 200 bar din retainer on a Mk20, they also converted it to 300 bar. I assumed s 200 bar redesigned retainer was not available in the USA.
 
I suspect all recent and new primary reg bodies are now rated to 300 bar and all manufacturers do is to fit either a k fitting, 232 bar din or 300 bar din. However in light of efficiency and cost cutting I suspect they have now simplified it further to either 300 bar din or k valve. This reduces tooling costs and manufacturing costs making the process more cost effective.

---------- Post added November 23rd, 2014 at 10:17 AM ----------

I know all about the difference between the 200 and 300 bar DIN fittings, but thank you!

Here's the interesting thing about the fill whip that you shared; it only has 5 threads, and it is apparently set up up so that only 2 of those threads actually catch, on the deeper 300 bar valve, and no threads on the 200 bar. Correct?

This means that by design, 2 threads are apparently sufficient to hold 300 bar of pressure. This pretty much negates any ideas that the extra threads in the 300 bar design are there to withstand the higher pressure.

I didn't actually write about the differences between 232 and 300 bar just for your benefit so I am a little puzzled as to why you took umbrage to my post. I was putting up the information for the benefit of everyone and I try not to assume we are all at the same knowledge level or level of understanding. It was not a shot at you.

I looked at the 300 bar fill whip (made by Bauer) and you are right except it catches 3 threads not 2 in a 300 bar valve. It has a longer nose (not the pin on the end of the nose) which prevents it from catching more threads, compared to the 300 bar reg fitting which has a shorter nose

A 300 bar reg screwed into a 300 bar valve picks up 7 threads. A 300 bar reg into a 232 bar valve picks up 4 threads. This implies the higher pressure the more threads required, but based on the fact that the 300 bar whip only picks up 3 threads in a 300 bar fitting it implies that the differences are more about preventing mixed pressure fittings than on actual need for thread engagement due to pressure
 
I didn't actually write about the differences between 232 and 300 bar just for your benefit so I am a little puzzled as to why you took umbrage to my post. I was putting up the information for the benefit of everyone and I try not to assume we are all at the same knowledge level or level of understanding. It was not a shot at you.

I didn't think you were taking a shot at me, I really did not take any umbrage at your post. It's easy to mis-communicate in these forums. I appreciate the link to the fill adapter, too, I had never seen one like that.

I believe there's a lot of mis-information and confusion about tank valves and DIN fittings in general. There are a lot of nervous nellies out there that claim extreme danger when in fact there really is none, only maybe danger of a leak.
 
I didn't think you were taking a shot at me, I really did not take any umbrage at your post. It's easy to mis-communicate in these forums. I appreciate the link to the fill adapter, too, I had never seen one like that.

I believe there's a lot of mis-information and confusion about tank valves and DIN fittings in general. There are a lot of nervous nellies out there that claim extreme danger when in fact there really is none, only maybe danger of a leak.

Ok, no prob. Lets move on and solve the riddle of this leaking reg then.
 
The riddle of the leaking regulators is pretty much solved. There is a variation on "300 BAR" valves and regulators that makes some combinations a shade too short. I have found a safe and easy fix to the problem. My timing on fixing the problem was good, my buddy showed up today with a new 120 cuft tank he had gotten. When we got it out of the car we noticed it was a 300 BAR DIN valve and he dives Yoke. Out came my spare DIN regulator set (which was now spare since I had fixed the issue with the primary) and off we went on a nice dive.

Also since I've solved the problem I'll swap him my spare K-valve and take his 300 BAR DIN valve.
 
The riddle of the leaking regulators is pretty much solved. There is a variation on "300 BAR" valves and regulators that makes some combinations a shade too short.

I was wondering if this could have been it; slight differences in manufacturing which could prevent some regulators from securely reaching the 'bottom' of the tank valve. Glad you solved it.
 
Me being the curious person I am would have left no stone unturned to understand why it is so. Although you have found a work around, my curiosity would not have allowed me to use it. I would want to know what was the root cause, to know the issue.

Guess we are all wired differently to perhaps end up with the same result "a working regulator"
 
My SS spacer is now complete. Take a stock SS washer from a common hardware store. Punch out a 5/8" round hole with a chassis punch (handy at home). Hand file and sand the center to fit (about .1 mm more). Trim the outside to match the inner diameter of the valve (again hand filed). Sand and polish it a shine and install.

DIN fix one.jpg
DIN retainer, my spacer, stock washer

DIN fix two.jpg
: All together.

Fits smoothly on the regulator and nice and snug in the valve.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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