Buoyancy Control

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In order to establish good buoyancy, proper weighting and trimming are essential. You have to get your dive weight dialed in and get your body trimmed so that you're horizontal (flat) in the water. Then it's just a matter of practice and focusing on making minute adjustments. When you're in neutral buoyancy, it feels like you're weightless and floaty (not floating up, but floaty). If you're floating up then you're positively buoyant. Just remember that air takes a little bit to spread out in your BC and affect your buoyancy. So don't wait until you need to establish neutral buoyancy at any depth and then do it. Think about it before hand and start doing it.

For example, the depth of the dive site is 60-ft and you want to be down to only 40-ft. Don't get down to 40-ft and then start to inflate your BC. Inflate minutely as you go down so that by the time you get to 38-ft, you're sinking ever slowly or possibly not even sink at all, then you'll empty out your lung and take shallow breaths until you sink down to 40-ft then take your regular full breath again. Then you'll see if you want to sink or not. If you were to want to sink at this point then hit the inflator for just a touch and wait for a bit to see how it feels like. If you want to float up then deflate a bit.

After a while, it becomes automatic.

Or assuming that the bottom of the dive site isn't too deep for your skills, attempt to establish neutral buoyancy a couple of feet above the bottom. Here's where your trim becomes essential because if your trim isn't good, then your fin kicks are going to destroy the reef and kill sea bunnies.

You can try the same exercise in a swimming pool and the good thing is that you won't kill sea bunnies if your fin kicks hit the bottom of the pool.

Another good indicator, not perfect indicator but good indicator, is that at any depth, if you hold your inflator out shoulder height (not over your head) and push the deflate button yet no air bubbling out. That is usually a good indicator that you're not overinflated and probably very close to neutral buoyancy.

This technique works very well when you ascend from greater depth. Let's say that you were at 70-ft and you want to go up to 40-ft for whatever reasons; something new to see or getting toward the end of the dive and want to begin a slow ascend, so you begin to swim up. Naturally since that you're changing depth, the air in your BC that was just right for neutral buoyancy at 70-ft now expands at shallower depth and overinflate your BC like a balloon. So you have to vent this excess air. But how much? If you hold your inflator hose over your head and deflate like crazy, you may over deflate and now have to reinflate all over again at 40-ft. By holding the inflator out at shoulder level, hitting the deflate button & swim up, the air is venting outward to establish equilibrium with the new shallower depth. When you get to 40-ft, let go of the deflator button and you should be there or very close to it. If you still sink a hair, then hit the inflator button for a small squirt or two.

Once you get your weight, trim and buoyancy done right, safety stops or any sort of hovers are no longer chores but fun times. You can float face up, head down, do barrel rolls, sommersaults, whatever at safety stops instead of holding onto the anchor line or kelp and finning like crazy, watching the seconds counting down. If you feel goofy, you'd take off your snorkel and poke at your buddies while they're cling to the anchor line.
 
If you've got someone who can take videos, have them take some of you when you think you're getting a handle on it. It really helped me see what I still had to work on.
 
In order to establish good buoyancy, proper weighting and trimming are essential. You have to get your dive weight dialed in and get your body trimmed so that you're horizontal (flat) in the water. Then it's just a matter of practice and focusing on making minute adjustments. When you're in neutral buoyancy, it feels like you're weightless and floaty (not floating up, but floaty). If you're floating up then you're positively buoyant. Just remember that air takes a little bit to spread out in your BC and affect your buoyancy. So don't wait until you need to establish neutral buoyancy at any depth and then do it. Think about it before hand and start doing it.

For example, the depth of the dive site is 60-ft and you want to be down to only 40-ft. Don't get down to 40-ft and then start to inflate your BC. Inflate minutely as you go down so that by the time you get to 38-ft, you're sinking ever slowly or possibly not even sink at all, then you'll empty out your lung and take shallow breaths until you sink down to 40-ft then take your regular full breath again. Then you'll see if you want to sink or not. If you were to want to sink at this point then hit the inflator for just a touch and wait for a bit to see how it feels like. If you want to float up then deflate a bit.

After a while, it becomes automatic.

Or assuming that the bottom of the dive site isn't too deep for your skills, attempt to establish neutral buoyancy a couple of feet above the bottom. Here's where your trim becomes essential because if your trim isn't good, then your fin kicks are going to destroy the reef and kill sea bunnies.

You can try the same exercise in a swimming pool and the good thing is that you won't kill sea bunnies if your fin kicks hit the bottom of the pool.

Another good indicator, not perfect indicator but good indicator, is that at any depth, if you hold your inflator out shoulder height (not over your head) and push the deflate button yet no air bubbling out. That is usually a good indicator that you're not overinflated and probably very close to neutral buoyancy.

This technique works very well when you ascend from greater depth. Let's say that you were at 70-ft and you want to go up to 40-ft for whatever reasons; something new to see or getting toward the end of the dive and want to begin a slow ascend, so you begin to swim up. Naturally since that you're changing depth, the air in your BC that was just right for neutral buoyancy at 70-ft now expands at shallower depth and overinflate your BC like a balloon. So you have to vent this excess air. But how much? If you hold your inflator hose over your head and deflate like crazy, you may over deflate and now have to reinflate all over again at 40-ft. By holding the inflator out at shoulder level, hitting the deflate button & swim up, the air is venting outward to establish equilibrium with the new shallower depth. When you get to 40-ft, let go of the deflator button and you should be there or very close to it. If you still sink a hair, then hit the inflator button for a small squirt or two.

Once you get your weight, trim and buoyancy done right, safety stops or any sort of hovers are no longer chores but fun times. You can float face up, head down, do barrel rolls, sommersaults, whatever at safety stops instead of holding onto the anchor line or kelp and finning like crazy, watching the seconds counting down. If you feel goofy, you'd take off your snorkel and poke at your buddies while they're cling to the anchor line.
The technique that you describe is half was to our "air siphon," something I have discussed before. Each BC is a little different so you will need to experiment and practice if you want this in your bag of tricks. It can result in a highly controllable ascent. Start kicking up. When your BC has expanded enough to keep you moving, relax and let it carry you upward. Hold the oral inflator hose as far down (deep) as you are able and keep the oral inflation button OPEN. Continue to keep the oral inflator button open and move the hose up until air starts to trickle out of the oral inflation mouthpiece, then lower it till it just stops. You now have an air siphon from your BC or BP/W that you can use to control your ascent or descent rate with amazing precision. Just remember to keep the oral inflator OPEN ALL THE TIME. THIS TECHNIQUE REQUIRES PRACTICE!
 
The technique that you describe is half was to our "air siphon," something I have discussed before. Each BC is a little different so you will need to experiment and practice if you want this in your bag of tricks. It can result in a highly controllable ascent. Start kicking up. When your BC has expanded enough to keep you moving, relax and let it carry you upward. Hold the oral inflator hose as far down (deep) as you are able and keep the oral inflation button OPEN. Continue to keep the oral inflator button open and move the hose up until air starts to trickle out of the oral inflation mouthpiece, then lower it till it just stops. You now have an air siphon from your BC or BP/W that you can use to control your ascent or descent rate with amazing precision. Just remember to keep the oral inflator OPEN ALL THE TIME. THIS TECHNIQUE REQUIRES PRACTICE!

Yep, I learned that technique in one of the threads and it might have been you that posted it.
 
I'll get flamed for sure but sometimes you just kneel in the sand and take photographs. I used to carry a couple of extra pounds of weight to be certain I could stay planted. Don't kneel in the coral or touch anything. But I just can't get deeply concerned about sand.
Putting aside the ecological question, this strategy will be sub-optimal anywhere there is muck, fine sand, or the silt you typically find on a wreck. Even quietly settling into these substrata will spoil the photo opportunities for a while. It might work in coarse sand or mud flats, but I wouldn't want to limit myself as a photographer for lack of proper dive skills.
 
No mentor for me really, im getting my cert before my other divers in my family and im running it solo. The only person who has helped me is a "friend" and my uncle, they help alot of gear choices, but other than that. No mentor, so again for me...teach myself. haha
 
No mentor for me really, im getting my cert before my other divers in my family and im running it solo. The only person who has helped me is a "friend" and my uncle, they help alot of gear choices, but other than that. No mentor, so again for me...teach myself. haha

Don't underestimate the willingness of more experienced divers to help. My buddy and I knew no divers until we started training, but just suiting up at the sites you can meet some very fine people, and they're sharing the water with you at times as well. I suspect if you ask some whose water skills you admired for an honest opinion, you could get some useful feedback.
 
Dive often and practice your control everytime. It will come with experience. Learn to not overweight, stay motionless and note if you sink, rise, etc. It will change as you use up your tank. Practice and have fun becoming a diver.
 
In order to establish good buoyancy, proper weighting and trimming are essential. You have to get your dive weight dialed in and get your body trimmed so that you're horizontal (flat) in the water.

No matter how much good information is in your post, starting off like this confuses me. When you can establish good buoyancy in various states of weighting and body position then you might consider yourself on the way to having good buoyancy. For some the crutch of the tools and the weakness of the definition gives a false sense of skill level.
 
No matter how much good information is in your post, starting off like this confuses me. When you can establish good buoyancy in various states of weighting and body position then you might consider yourself on the way to having good buoyancy. For some the crutch of the tools and the weakness of the definition gives a false sense of skill level.

When you become a superb diver, you can establish buoyancy when you're overweighted and out-of-trimmed. If you're brand new, before you try anything fancy, get your gears dialed in first before doing anything else. It's pretty hard for a new diver to establish decent buoyancy as it is much less trying to establish buoyancy in less-than-optimal gear configuration and body trimming.
 

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