canon g16

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Am not sure I understand how that would be possible? The recharge time depends on the capacity of the strobe even at minimum power you would be looking at 1 maybe 2 fires per second?? Have you got examples of the pictures you take? Interesting to aee
 
Am not sure I understand how that would be possible? The recharge time depends on the capacity of the strobe even at minimum power you would be looking at 1 maybe 2 fires per second?? Have you got examples of the pictures you take? Interesting to aee
The 4 fps is limited by the camera (likely image write speed?) not the strobes. The strobes can cycle faster. How fast? I have no idea. If the strobes do become the bottleneck, then just turn them down a little and add another one. The more, the merrier.
 
I think I'm going to go with the ysd1 in stead of the inon d2000. Do you think that's a wise move to but the ysd1 instead of inon d2000 for macro
 
Nope bad idea. You will need to shoot the strobe in manual all the time. Also the G16 doesn't need all that power. You mighty as well buy an YS-02 if you want to shoot the strobe manual all the time
 
In the future I will get into 4/3 for macro, video and wa. Mostly macro but wont the ysd1 be best for wa shoot includeing macro.
 
Agreed that wired syncs are being phased out. But the 3 second cycle time you quote is an eternity if you are used to shooting 4 frames per second in manual mode. And sometimes it takes 9 or 10 shots when your target is bouncing around a bit (think of juvenile spotted drums - they are constantly moving about erratically).

Seaworm: to answer your question - using a hotshoe is considered old school for most new rigs and generally not a consideration. It requires the following
- a camera with a hot shoe (most P&S cameras do not have one so are not candidates)
- an internal cable to connect between the hotshoe and the bulkhead connector
- a bulkhead connector that goes through your housing (extremely few P&S housings have one)
- a wired sync cable that goes from bulkhead connector to strobe
- a strobe with a wired sync connector (many new strobes do not have this)
- if ttl is desired, then you will likely also need a ttl converter to make the camera hotshoe signals compatible with the strobe. THis can be either inside the housing or external.
Lots of bits means lots of expense and more chances for potential failure points to come into play.

Current fibre optic sync cables are much simpler, compact, easier to connect and generally safer as they can not flood.

I'd disagree that hotshoes and wired connectors are being discontinued, any pro shooting an SLR is using wired. The only place we're not seeing these are in Point and Shoots used by shooters like us, in those cases there aren't too many cameras that have hot shoes, so clearly housings aren't produced with the wired points.

For the reasons stated by others using a hot shoe does enable you to not drain the cameras battery as fast because you don't fire the cameras flash. The danger is that there's one more connection point you have to worry about flooding, on the flip side if you shoot a lot and do many dives a day I believe this is offset by not having to open up the camera during the day, because you don't have to change the battery. I'm much more paranoid of opening a housing on a dive boat then assembling my whole rig the night before in the room where I have a lot of light, dry space and I'm paying attention to everything. the only camera I've ever flooded happened after I opened it on a boat.
 
To all..........

Time to comment when my BS detectors go off the charts! LOL.........

I know (and have dived with a few) several WORKING pros including Doug Perrine, David Fleetham, Marty Snyderman, Brian Skerry, David Doubilet, Ned Deloach, Stephen Frink and many many more...........

Interceptor's world of compact cameras without hot shoes has moved to optical connections by necessity not having a hot shoe..........But to say hard wired housing to strobes are dead is not only disingenuous but outright false..........

The way some folks bash hard wired cord "failures" would make you think it happens every second dive..........My observation is people yank, pull, twist, wrap tightly and generally cause their own problems.......I have 30K of photos on my iMac and never have had a cord failure.........99% of my Ikelite customers haven't either.......I lead trips every year and people bring a variety of gear and I see what works and what doesn't............

Optical synch isn't all it's cracked up to be.........Connectors pull out, won't transmit the triggering flash, many strobes have control panels like a Space Shuttle plus other problems......For many camera systems it's the only choice but again, hard wire isn't dead.......

Joe Diver shooting manual on one to two trips per year may never get in the ballpark on exposures before it's time to pack up and go home with minimal photos............REAL TTL is WAY more accurate in both Macro and Wide Angle..........I've been shooting it for decades on limited exposure slide film and digital............

The "TTL doesn't work in wide angle" is another totally false statement by those who:

* Don't have a housing / strobe combination with hot shoe enabled camera

* Those buying overpriced boxes for a camera costing 1/3 the $$$$$$$$

* Measurbators who endlessly discuss and compare specifications versus learning to use a product and understanding how it works........

YES, I'm an unabashed Ikelite dealer AND actual photographer having shot numerous SLRs with hot shoe enabled TTL...........PLUS Manual flash if one chooses to (although why would I since I know how to adjust TTL)

A close friend and customer won Photographer of the Year last year in the HUPS (Houston Underwater Photo Society) contest with his photos........All shot on TTL :)

Those who bash hard wired either never were shown (or learned) to grease the metal to metal bulkhead fittings on synch cords and o-ring ONCE on a trip.....If it didn't leak on Dive #1 it won' t leak on Dive #50 or whatever plus will come apart easily at trip's end from the grease on any metal to metal fittings.

Reading posts here by people who barely post photos or post mediocre snapshots is more entertainment than actual good information to help people make sensible choices and enjoy UW photography.........Which is kind of sad :(

Then again, what do I know after 45 years diving, 43 years shooting UW photos and 30K of DIGITAL files :)

David Haas
www.haasimages.com
 

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To all..........

Time to comment when my BS detectors go off the charts! LOL.........



Joe Diver shooting manual on one to two trips per year may never get in the ballpark on exposures before it's time to pack up and go home with minimal photos............REAL TTL is WAY more accurate in both Macro and Wide Angle........


David Haas
www.haasimages.com


LOL, David, you make a very strenuous argument, but when you post a picture with over-exposed foreground and blown out highlights on your subject, you actually make a convincing argument against what you are trying to say!

I am a relative newbie, but I have been shooting manual with fibre-optic connectors and have not had any problems achieving decent exposure. So with all due respect to your experience and all, I have to disagree with much of what you are saying, especially the above quote.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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