Difference between Conshelf 2nds
- Thread starter JohnN
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The DACORs are my preferred reg. Almost indestructible and I see them a lot on eBay. Parts and whole regs.
I am almost sure the adjustment screw stays at factory settings, however, just in case check your IP against the specifications from the mfg. , then use your IP bench gauge to verify. It can also diagnose some ‘service’ issues, etc.To resurrect this zombie thread, I’d like to ask whether there is any great advantage to searching out a late type 1085 second stage? Is that external adjustment screw something that actually gets used, or is it just left alone after the reg is tuned? As always,TIA for your experiences and informed opinions!
…good call Eric. Simplicity counts as well as availability. Why USD parts were chosen for building the ‘Kraken’ ( ..or so I was told. ..)
No 1085 has an external adjustment screw (excluding a Kirby Morgan). The screw on the late 1085 from the Conshelf 14 (not XIV) is a port plug screw that can be removed so that a screw driver (or special tool) can be inserted to the slotted screw of the poppet. The cover must still be removed so as to be able to put a wrench on the nylock nut unless you have the special tool.
The second stage poppet screw does not adjust IP. The IP is adjusted via the first stage (140+/-5 or 125 +/-5 for the Supreme). Of course the second stage must then be adjusted to that IP set for the first stage. Here is from the manual so I do not need to be almost sure nor do I make WAGs. Note the direct access afforded the screw driver to adjust the poppet on what is called the "newer version" in the SM. If you have the special tool it has a screw driver that slips through the nut driver.
spoolin01
Contributor
Their polish and chrome are a cut above, and all but the basic Pacer have the access port for adjustment.
Green Frog
Contributor
When I got certified in Central VA back about 30 years ago, the dive shop operator had been selling Aqua Lung/USD, but opened up a new shop and switched to Dacor, so I ended up getting a deal on a C22 reg set that was newly returned from recall. Since he was now selling Dacor, he didn’t want to return it to his rental stock.
Within about a year or so, I found what appeared to be a NOS C-XIV complete and it was love at first sight. People have tried to get me to give up that old 1085 second, but as long as I can keep it operational, it will dive as long as I do.
I later found other brands in other shops I visited, but a plated brass Conshelf just seems to be what St Jacques of Cousteau intended for me.
Within about a year or so, I found what appeared to be a NOS C-XIV complete and it was love at first sight. People have tried to get me to give up that old 1085 second, but as long as I can keep it operational, it will dive as long as I do.
I later found other brands in other shops I visited, but a plated brass Conshelf just seems to be what St Jacques of Cousteau intended for me.
Hey Thank You, Nemrod. That his what GF needed to see for his inquiry. These schematics and expanded views have helped me in the past. You can’t refute the ‘Plans’No 1085 has an external adjustment screw (excluding a Kirby Morgan). The screw on the late 1085 from the Conshelf 14 (not XIV) is a port plug screw that can be removed so that a screw driver (or special tool) can be inserted to the slotted screw of the poppet. The cover must still be removed so as to be able to put a wrench on the nylock nut unless you have the special tool.
The second stage poppet screw does not adjust IP. The IP is adjusted via the first stage (140+/-5 or 125 +/-5 for the Supreme). Of course the second stage must then be adjusted to that IP set for the first stage. Here is from the manual so I do not need to be almost sure nor do I make WAGs. Note the direct access afforded the screw driver to adjust the poppet on what is called the "newer version" in the SM. If you have the special tool it has a screw driver that slips through the nut driver.
Scott G. Bonser
Green Frog
Contributor
Maybe I should start a new thread for this question, but since it’s at least tangent to the question at hand, here goes…
When doing an annual clean and check of a 1085 second stage, if the exhaust valve (silicone type rubber) looks and feels good,is there any reason to replace it? I fall toward “no” but I want to hear your studied opinions on the subject.
TIA ~
When doing an annual clean and check of a 1085 second stage, if the exhaust valve (silicone type rubber) looks and feels good,is there any reason to replace it? I fall toward “no” but I want to hear your studied opinions on the subject.
TIA ~
GJC
Contributor
Probably not as long as the silicone seems to be undamaged, flexible but not too soft.
More important is that the mating surface on the box be clean and smooth. I have seen valves stuck to the box with salt and corrosion.
On the other hand, the valves are really cheap and readily available. And you don't want someone coming back to you after a valve stuck open or folded into the body during a dive asking why you didn't replace it.
More important is that the mating surface on the box be clean and smooth. I have seen valves stuck to the box with salt and corrosion.
On the other hand, the valves are really cheap and readily available. And you don't want someone coming back to you after a valve stuck open or folded into the body during a dive asking why you didn't replace it.
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