Disfunctional Dive Knives that Endanger Divers - ScubaMax

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I'm getting the Trilobite as a backup to my larger Mares one - those ScubaMax ones I bought were last-minute items (one a small hose mounted one, and one a BCD mounted plastic sheath POS), never used previously, and admittedly, purchased because of the low cost - definately POS.

I saw the write mount for the Trilobite and will probably consider that one - I can see that that device might have soom good canyoneering and whitewater kayaking/rafting applications too - thanks to the first user that recommended that one!
 
These are some of the cheapest and best knives available. Yes it is simply a cut off steak knife, that happens to whack thru rope easily, along with other materials. Yet is safe for the person using it. If you loose it :idk:

You may not get it and that is okay, but I do because that steak knife is not a full tang and if it is it is thin and cheap and if loaded with the same force a Tekna or similar quality knife, it would snap. That is why it is a steak knife and not a diving knife upon which you may count your life and BTW, the Tekna will cut wire leader when sufficient force is applied (which would snap the steak knife).

Scissor which it has been admitted are disposable because the blades rust and the rivet rusts and that rivet is the weak link and no matter how good they cut when the rivet is in place, they will not cut at all when the rivet snaps, which they do. Because they are disposable.

A good knife, is a tool and in some cases a weapon and it is made to last a lifetime of rugged use. That is why they cost more than 12 bucks.

See, as an actual minimalist, I would rather carry one functional, quality tool than five disposable one that are not dependable, thus needing the one and four backups. But that is you guys, me, I am into the one that works when I need it to.

N
 
the Tekna will cut wire leader when sufficient force is applied (which would snap the steak knife).

Scissor which it has been admitted are disposable because the blades rust and the rivet rusts and that rivet is the weak link and no matter how good they cut when the rivet is in place, they will not cut at all when the rivet snaps, which they do. Because they are disposable.

A good knife, is a tool and in some cases a weapon and it is made to last a lifetime of rugged use. That is why they cost more than 12 bucks.

See, as an actual minimalist, I would rather carry one functional, quality tool than five disposable one that are not dependable, thus needing the one and four backups. But that is you guys, me, I am into the one that works when I need it to.

Whatever works for you, champ. But keep in mind, your reg is disposable, too, just like even the best shears: eventually, wear, tear, and the saltwater win. What you do is maintain and inspect your gear and replace it before failure becomes an issue. My TyTek SS shears (with a SS rivet) cost about $5 a pop and are both disposable and reliable…probably why they're commonly used in combat trauma kits. The primary failure on them is when the relatively hardened blades snap because I dropped something on them; never had a rivet or the handles give out on them, unlike the ti-coated things a lot of SCUBA shears kits come with.

The idea that a Tekna will cut wire leader "when sufficient force is applied" is a joke, and if you'd tried it under real-world conditions (say, with a goddamn saltwater fishing hook in you) you'd understand that. It's a nice piece of steel with decent blade geometry - not a :censored:ing lightsaber. The necessary degree of force (not small) you have to apply towards the wire you seek to cut must be countered with an equal degree of force on the wire in the opposite direction…messy, and given to a dramatic gesture of one hand out and one hand in should the wire actually give way. The shears neatly balance those necessary opposing forces by design…they're simply the better tool for the task, just like the knife is the superior tool for thick rope or tightly-wrapped heavy fishing line.

If you think carrying one sub-optimal tool makes you "an actual minimalist", you're not much different than a guy carrying double 130s of air for a deco dive when an h-valved HP80 and a 30 of O2 would get the job done as well or better.

P.S. We're in agreement on how silly the DIR sawed off steak knife idea is. They're really crappy edges barely held in place by some hard-molded plastic. May as well buy a crappy Chinese dive knife :wink:
 
Dr Lector, I bought my last set of shears at medical supply. The hinge still rusted away. I haven't bothered to replace them. Perhaps I'll try another pair. I do want the function, which is why i had the other 3-4 pairs in the first place.
 
Whatever works for you, champ. But keep in mind, your reg is disposable, too, just like even the best shears: eventually, wear, tear, and the saltwater win. What you do is maintain and inspect your gear and replace it before failure becomes an issue. My TyTek SS shears (with a SS rivet) cost about $5 a pop and are both disposable and reliable…probably why they're commonly used in combat trauma kits. The primary failure on them is when the relatively hardened blades snap because I dropped something on them; never had a rivet or the handles give out on them, unlike the ti-coated things a lot of SCUBA shears kits come with.

The idea that a Tekna will cut wire leader "when sufficient force is applied" is a joke, and if you'd tried it under real-world conditions (say, with a goddamn saltwater fishing hook in you) you'd understand that. It's a nice piece of steel with decent blade geometry - not a :censored:ing lightsaber. The necessary degree of force (not small) you have to apply towards the wire you seek to cut must be countered with an equal degree of force on the wire in the opposite direction…messy, and given to a dramatic gesture of one hand out and one hand in should the wire actually give way. The shears neatly balance those necessary opposing forces by design…they're simply the better tool for the task, just like the knife is the superior tool for thick rope or tightly-wrapped heavy fishing line.

If you think carrying one sub-optimal tool makes you "an actual minimalist", you're not much different than a guy carrying double 130s of air for a deco dive when an h-valved HP80 and a 30 of O2 would get the job done as well or better.

P.S. We're in agreement on how silly the DIR sawed off steak knife idea is. They're really crappy edges barely held in place by some hard-molded plastic. May as well buy a crappy Chinese dive knife :wink:

Well, champ, we will just have too mostly agree to mostly disagree or agree or wherever we are on it :wink:. And they cursing is not needed.

N
 
My favorite knife is
Wenoka Squeeze Lock Knife, Blunt at LeisurePro

the small Wenoka, attached upside down on the inflator hose to the BC. The only caveat is that it comes rather dull so I sharpened mine.

Just make sure you get the titanium blade knife. Take it to a professional sharpener, and never buy another knife again.
 
While we are on this this topic- Why do some divers prefer a skeleton handle compared to one with a nice grip?
 
While we are on this this topic- Why do some divers prefer a skeleton handle compared to one with a nice grip?

(1) No chance for corrosion by saltwater penetrating some crevice.
(2) Typically no NEED for a "nice grip" for the kind of tasks a dive knife is needed for, and it just adds weight and bulk.
(3) With some knives, you can't determine without x-raying the thing whether the tang of the blade extends all the way to the butt of the handle. In other words, on a cheap knife with a molded plastic handle the blade might be only partly embedded in the handle, inviting mechanical failure at some point--especially if there's also corrosion at work (see 1 above).
 

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